2008 Prerunner DC 4.0 engine split drive shaft removal tools

Do you have to Jack up the differential to remove the split drive shaft on a Prerunner? Are there any long 14mm six point box ends to aid in removal and give you leverage. The torque on the four rear nuts is 65 ft lbs. I presume you will have to torque the bolt heads because a socket won’t fit on the nuts and they are hard to torque. Might try to find 14mm 6 point partially closed crows foot to use with a torque wrench.

any ideas to help to make drive shaft removal easier
Thanks,
Jetmech

 

You don't need to raise the rear end, but you do need to chock the wheels.

 

You can connect two wrenches together to get the leverage you need to get those bolts off. Seems like I used my jack stands to support the back of the drive shaft while I was taking down the carrier bearing bolts. Make sure you chock the wheels before you do anything.

 

Use an impact with extension to zip them off. As for the torque, yes somewhere around 60 ft lbs, i use blue locktite and torque to feel, tough to get a wrench on there. No need to jack the truck up.

 

I marked the drive shaft at all three connection points, I did chalk the rear wheel, removed the 4 differential bolts, and then tried to drop the rear drive shaft down. I tried prying it loose, and tapping with a hammer, no luck. The tranny was in park.

When I changed the 3rd member (ECGS) and few months ago, I did Jack up the differential and the rear drive shaft came down with a slight tap.

thanks,
Jetmech

 

A pry bar between the yoke and flange will make short work of that.

 

Thanks

 

Chock wheels is important so I'll reiterate that.

I've done it twice, each time a 14mm combo wrench with the box end on the nut and another wrench's box end on the open end of the first wrench was plenty to break it loose.

There's probably one up top you can't get a wrench on. I've always been able to find a way to get a socket with extension, maybe a swivel, and half inch ratchet or breaker bar on it.

 

Also to note I've never torqued these back on. Blue loctite with a little german torque, guten tight! Never had a driveshaft bolt break free on me yet.

You may be able to get a swivel socket on to torque but you'll have to fudge the numbers. If you like german torque and you are a torque Nazi, use a crows foot and calculate what you'll need. These are high grade bolts and you won't have to worry about shearing them when tightening, even with an impact.

https://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

 

I should be getting two 12” long 14mm boxed end wrenches tomorrow. That will give me more leverage. I also have a beefed up six point 14mm crows foot that may work.
Thanks,
Jetmech1