Cgoss's "crawler" build

I love everything about this!

 

Do you by chance have part numbers for your full hydro setup? Looking at doing the same setup on mine when I go 37s

 

Orbital (120-125 ml/cc) need -8an supply and return fittings and -6an feed for ram (with a orbital mount)
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/moto...eering-control-orbital-valves/psc-fhv-ce.html

Steering ram
2.5x10 with clamps (limit stroke to 6 inches, you will need to call and request the ram be limited on stroke, its an extra 80$)
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/moto...ts/offroad/steering-cylinders/psc-sc2213.html

Fluid resevoir and pump (tc style pump)

Fluid resevoir is a -8an return and -12an feed
Pump is a -8 and -12 aswell. I reused my stock pulley. I needed to drill out 1 hole on the pump to reuse the stock bolts, i also needed a small spacer with that hole.
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/motorsport-specific-products/offroad/pump-kits/psc-pk1200.html

Tie rod kit (or piece together your own set, i am because i want FK heims and aluminum links)
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/moto...treme-duty-de-cylinder-tie-rod-kit-21262.html
(Or kartek for heims, misalignments and jam nuts, and wide open designs for links)

Misalignments 3/4 to 5/8 (4 total, this is for outer tie rods)
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/moto...ts/offroad/tie-rod-components/psc-reshms.html

Steering stem ( to attach orbital to steering column) im not sure which one, i used a trail gear one that matched the spline to one of our oem u joints, then i welded the u joint to the steering column. Ill probably go back and do a new column. (Dont forget to take out your clock spring)
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/moto...ing-stems-and-steering-columns/psc-fhc04.html

Heim clevis (connects ram to tie rod)
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/motorsport-specific-products/offroad/tie-rod-components/psc-sc16.html

Fluid cooler. I replaced my stock tranny cooler with this one. Its a dual zone and has a fan, upper zone is tranny cooler and lower is hydraulic cooler.

$161 Derale 15220 Electra-Cool Remote Cooler Dual Circuit 2 in 1 Design , Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONT1Q?_encoding=UTF8

5/8 reamer, for spindles

$44 Accusize Industrial Tools H.S.S. Spiral Flute Aligning Reamer, 5/8'' Cutting Diameter, 1/2'' Shank Diameter, 0522-0058

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771SH4P6?_encoding=UTF8

For fluid, use whatever, regular power steering, transmission oil, or psc's fluid. Just dont mix.


I got my hoses made locally at a hydraulic hose shop, or you can go on PSC and get thier DIY kit, but those can be a pain to put together, not bad for a trail repair kit though.
-12an feed from resevoir to pump (low pressure)
-8an feed from pump to orbital (high pressure)
-6an feed from orbital to ram left and right, 2 hoses (high pressure)
-8an return from orbital to cooler and cooler to resevoir (low pressure)

One of the major issues with the ram is it has to be mounted forward of the oem position. This causes our ackerman to get fucked and the steering turn in feels different. Theres a few things that should help with this. Either pick a LT kit that pushes the lower ball joints forward, or get the JD fab lower pivot kit, or both. Eventually ill get LT, but for now i have the pivot kit on my living room floor.
Another problem is the vertical size of the ram. If you do as i did and barely cut up the subframe, youll barely have enough room for the ram, and your bumpsteer will be terrible. If you do like i did get some aftermarket engine mounts or raise the engine, or you can cut the subframe more. Cutting the subframe helps lower the ram and will also help you keep the stock outer tie rod spots. I do recommend doing double sheer outer tie rods too.

My current setup is about 1.5inches forward of stock (i do have some room to go back but not much), its also .375 inches higher than stock.

I think thats everything.....

 

The last few months ive been working on getting the truck dialed in more and trying make it more reliable.

Most of the work was front suspension stuff, but i also bobbed and dovetailed the bed and boxed the frame.

I also picked up a f150 to tow the truck around with

I swapped out to a tundra master and booster with all new brake lines and a proportioning valve. Moved the battery to the rear and cut out the inner fenders and made a box for fender supports and to mount other stuff off of. I rewired alot of my accessories and moved stuff around.
For the front suspension and steering i installed the JD fab lower pivot kit, whiteline bushings, a new psc 3.0 ram with new -8 feed and return lines and a new resevoir.
The ram is a really tight fit, i ended up using the passenger diff bolt as the mount for the forward passenger ram mount. That helped locate the ram at stock height and 5/8 an inch forward of stock. The pivot kit helped fix the geometry of moving the ram forward and gave me some more caster so i would have better return to center.
The ram fits better now then before, but a 2.5 ram would be easier to fit if you cut the subframe like i had to.

 

Then i went out to logandale nevada for hump n bump 2021 and had some fun beating on the truck.

 

So awesome because it is still IFS. has really held up well other than the obvious parts that don't like big tires and being stuffed into rocks. Some days I wish mine was still IFS but I have very much enjoyed the SAS and big coil overs. Keep up the hard work and hard play!

 

Thanks, its been fun learning what will break next.

 

How is the full hydro on the street? I've had two vehicles with it so far, but both straight axled and verry poor alignment.

 

I finally got the alignment almost perfect, it drives pretty straight, even at 75mph. Now i just need to dial in flow. I need a bigger orbital with the 3.0 ram, currently have a 125ml and its 4 turns lock to lock, id like to be closer to 2.5 turns. I also want to step up to a higher flow/pressure pump, the tc pump kinda sucks and ive already had to rebuild it once because the pressure relief got jammed. I have probably 500 street miles on this most recent setup.

 

My Samurai has a Howe system and it has been almost flawless except for losing a pump pulley one trip. It is 2 turns lock to lock and white knuckle driving at 60 mph. I never tried to dial in the alignment, but it is not a load reactive valve either.

 

I may have already asked this elsewhere, but how do you like hauling with the F150? V8? I picked one up as a daily driver for the same reason. Looking to pick up a trailer when the truck is back on the ground.

 

Yeah its all about dialing in the fluid flow, they make pumps that you can change the flow on and you can get a external pressure relief to change the pressure. My dads jku is full hydro and can do 90 mph just fine. His wifes buggy is a single ram full hydro and it can barely do 30mph.

 

I have an ecoboost, so far i love it, even without trailer brakes it does really well towing a small 16ft and the tacoma. Gas milage sucks, but its not any worst than when i borrowed my dad dodge 3500 to tow with.

 

Very nice. I’m looking forward to trying it out. Still on the hunt for a trailer. Is 16’ plenty long enough? Hard to find anything with more than 3.5k axles without buying new.

 

If i had an option i wouldve gone with a bigger trailer, but the 16ft fits perfectly in my driveway and i got a good deal on it. Eventually i want to get a gooseneck.

 

@CGoss i follow ya on my company page on Instagram, and super stoked to find your build thread.

It’s amazing how capable this trucks are. Your build is rad man. And it’s cool to see you build your truck with a lot of budget parts.

hopefully catch ya in Moab one time.
Headed there early May

 

Lucky! I want to to back to moab. But ill be in colorado late april instead.

 

Maybe, depends on my work schedule and maybe joes.

 

Come early may

 

I’ll be there from the 1-7

let me know. Would be rad to wheel with y’all! And add a couple more yotas instead of all the damn jeeps