Throw out bearing diy attempt...

So, I went wheeling with a bunch off really chill dudes on Sunday. Everything seemed good to go. Lost my license plate but otherwise no damage. But then, this.

https://youtube.com/shorts/wii9zMqp8VU?feature=share

It was dusty as Fuck out there. Like fuck man, dusty. and tbh I had been worried about the throw out bearing since this happened 2 years ago.

https://youtu.be/JJeu2wSDcQ4


Think all that dust got in through that lil window on the tranny and finished the TOB off. Anywho, guess its time to drop a tranny. Its my first time. Will be posting updates for those curious. Advise and warnings welcome.

 

I think if you drop a tranny it's a hate crime now fyi.

Did you already do the adm?

 

Accumulator delete? Nah. Once we're back on the east coast il mess with that. Don't wanna screw with what the engineers did too much before that move.

First updat: figured would rinse the bell housing through that window to knock some dust out of it. Noise has stopped. Probably ill advised,, and just the water acting as lub for a greaseless bearing. But so far, it has not returned.

 

Step one: cleared out Garage.

Step two: order a trans Jack and more Jack stands. Arriving Friday.

Step Three: purchase bore scope and find the attached.

Step four: Just for due dilli, visit dealer to confirm pilot and release bearings covered by 36 mo, not 60 mo power train warrenty.

Step five: apply some lithium grease to ToB to confirm, and hopefully buy some time while parts and tools ship......



Not sure about step five....

 

Step six: beer run
All successful and unsuccessful repair/mod jobs start with a beer run.

 

After waiting for parts/tools, a stomach virus and three days(2 of which were leave), the project is done! Will do a write up soon. Was Great Success!

 

I want to see the write up even though my tacoma is autotragic transmission.

 

So, Ima go over the problems and solutions I experienced in this project, but it won't be a how to. For that, turn to Kflo on YouTube. He has a great break down of this, some minor differences for the third gens but nothing that substantial. Watch the video for reference and familiarization, but also get the Service manual, belive its available in the third gen quick maintenance guid thread. .

First thing. Tool discipline. I must have lost literal hours looking for tools i just put down. Even had to make a special trip(one of many) to buy a new 14mm socket. Second buy good Tools. I cheaped out, got three ton jack stands and some shotty triple jack. It sucked. Spend the money on some 6 tons' you'll get more room and it'll be safer. Get a proper floor jack and get a proper transmission jack. Its expensive but you will still come out ahead doing this yourself. Some othe tools you may not have, 1/2 impact gun and sockets, propain torch, a big ass prybar and big ass breaker bar. There's gonna be stuck stuff, this shit is essential. Electric ratchet (highly recommend Huskeys. Stayed with me this whole job on one charge) generally faster but you will def want this for those one click tight spots. Lots of extensions. Like 40 inches worth to get the two bolts at the top of the bell housing. Srsly, Those two suck arse. Have a plan. Stick to it. Stay organized. Be ready for curveballs.

Service manual deviations. The manual says to remove the front drive line and exhaust pipe before the cross member supporting the trans. Fuck that, it is much easier to get that out of the way first. Just be sure to safely support the trans with a jack stand. Not just the jack... also says to drain the oil, unnecessary. Remove starter, unnecessary. Drain clutch fluid, probably unnecessary. I tried to clamp the hose by the reservoir but sucked and lost it all anyway.

Stuck things. Depending on a lot of variables you may have stuck things. Most likely the exhaust bolts will be stuck. Heat is an oxidizer and rusts parts. Thats why no mater what state your truck is is the exhaust is probably the worst off. PB blaster the exhaust bolts once a day for a few days before starting. That impact gun will shear the bolts off, ask me how I know. So, use your torch to losen. Dont be shy about it, just be careful. Your impact gun just won't get the bolt out? is it battery powered? A low battery will sound just as loud but won't have the nuts to break things loose. Check the battery. Another trick, is to work the bolt BOTH ways to crack the rust in the threads. For me my bell was stuck to the engine. The pilot dowls are qt about the 10 and 2 o'clock position and those were the hang up. Big pry bar, big dead blow and big patience will get er off. Ended up coming through the passenger wheel well to get that last bit of leverage I needed. Electrical connectors get so jammed with mud. Pick up some contact cleaner and a nylon brush and hot em hard. They'll give.

How in the fuck do you reach that? For pretty much all of these, drop it like in Kflows video, somethings even he doesn't do while its angled down are still a good idea hear. Wiring harness, exhaust pipe supports, clutch line support. To ease u to those top bell housing bolts. Grab your extensions in your left hand and from behind reach up over the top while kind of peaking around the right side. For torqueing these two, use the above method with a 20 inch extension, fit it to the bolt then hop in the cab and through the shifte hole you can attach your torque wrench. A bit of back and forth but better than "torqueing" from 40 inches of extensions.

Mark up. Obviously, Mark bothe ends of the front drive shaft, the front of the rear and in three places each both support tabs of the support bearing. You want all that shit lined up the right way. Had my support bearing perfect, torqued it down moved on. Later noticed it shifted and was able to correct cus it was marked gud.

Reassemble. The only thing I had a hard time with was getting the bell back on the engine. A couple tips. Have a buddy run the jack as you watch the input shaft if possible. One the trans is in line with the shaft, if the splines arnt lined up you can use the sweet pry bar to VERY CAREFULLY and only very slightly push the splines on top over shouldn't have to do this more than a literal degree or two. Can reach through that little window. Once the splines are lined up go to the t case and push and jiggle on that. For the last few mm, use the bolts. But be sure the thing is alinge. If you start cranking but that dowel is impacting something you will strip out your threads. Destination fucked that is.
Oh and the shifter too. I could not for the life of get the cap back on the shift lever. Until my wife juggled it and it dropped about an inch to be fully seated. It was like the last thing after three day, I wasn't as aware as I normally am...

Comfort and safety. It is worth buying a couple cheap yoga mats, this is gonna be a long one. No reason to act like a tough guy. After hours on your back on the concrete you will be bruised. Eye pro. Go splash proof. If your like me the amount of dirt thats going to be comin from the heat shielding and rust from the exhaust and what ever else... it's just better. Goes without saying working with a buddy is always safer but if no one is going to be around to at least hear you scream, be very careful. YOLO is a caution, not a dare. Finnaly, clutch dust. K covers it but it bears repeating. Be careful around that shit. Keep it wet, keep it down, wear a mask if you have one, a good one not a covid one. no air tools once the bell is off.

I guess thats it. My lessons learned if you will. Hope this helps someone out.