Long Travel BS Thread

The interference isn't terrible, I didn't even know it was happening until I disassembled one for inspection and saw the marks.

Depending on how a JD kit is set up it might cause problems if the JD 2.25 kit gets anywhere near what they claim.

 

My UCA was in between the coils before the 934 wanted to bind. Ball joint probably had a hair left before metal on metal. That’s been my limiting factor at least. I’m at 12” at the wheel because my wheeler bumps keep me from getting the last little bit of up travel. A wider LT kit should put even less angle on the CVs.

 

Once we get to the front I think we’re gonna do new crossmembers with full Hydro steering or a steering box and swing set. Depends what the room looks like and how headers come into play… but I agree, there isn’t shit out there for 1st gens

 

even with spring under axle??

 

any chance just making them tight with a standard length 1/2 in drive ratchet then again after a few hundred miles is somewhere close to the proper torque specs? asking for a friend

 

Yeah 90 fl lbs is a good snug pull if you have a long handled one

 

Yes

 

I never torque u bolts under their own weight to 85, never had an issue. Take that fwiw, I don’t understand why you think you need to.

 

They’ll loosen on some sua setups until they’re all settled in.

 

Oh yeah no matter what u bolt setup you’re running they will need to be checked periodically until everything settles in and finds its happy home. That’s usually about the time I’m back to messing around with things again and have to start over lol

 

Ain't that the truth lol

Who needs that bolt paint pen anyways when it gets taken apart every month.

 

And if you tighten every bolt why mark it. Don't half ass put shit together. Do it right the first time.

 

Paint pens are also used for a visual as well. You can see if anything has backed off

 

witness mark AFTER 150-200mi torque check on the ubolts!!!

$21 Cross Check DYKEM - Pink Tamperproof/Torque Seal, 1oz | 83320 (2 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759T8BB3

 

I don’t think you understand why the others break in the first place... the OE others are very strong but when they are over extended they break... the 934’s eliminate the outer bind by running a longer axle with a true plunging CV. There is a reason why we went the 934 route and this is it. I’ve yet to see a person with 934’s have an outer fail

 

I don’t understand, because during all of this talk it was never actually explained. Just lots of opinion over anything. I knew the 934 provided more droop but the outer stuff was never once mentioned or explained.

 

Harry has said multiple times that they believe the reason the outers fail is due to binding on the inner, which is in fact addressed by the 934s. It's in his thread 1.6 million times.

 

Man, I wish I had time to read through every single page and retain every single bit of info. I just don’t. So excuse me for asking legitimate questions before spending 15k

 

I didn’t realize you didn’t catch that before, that’s my bad. I did know that.

Not to add fuel to the fire or anything but it is on the product page.

 

Never once read it if I’m being 100% honest. I’ve read about all the rest of the parts, just not them apparently. So that is my bad. Either which way, it still could have been explained when the question came about. I apologize for my ignorance.