The 285 Dilemma

I’m making this post in reference to the countless hours I spent reading, researching, and racking my brain on how and what to do to get the fitment that I wanted. First, what I went with. 5100’s with 887’s. Icon aal in the rear with overload left in. Wheels are motegi mr150 16x8 0 offset with 4.5 backspace. Tires are toyo RT 285/75/16. I have zero rubbing. Zero cutting. And a solid amount of clearance. Alignment numbers are within spec. But will still do ucas for my own peace of mind.
I say all that, to say this. There is a plethora of information and what’s been done. What’s been tried. Read that and use it to your advantage, but based on my personal experiences here this is what I came up with. At the end of the day find what YOU like and want and go for it. Equip yourself with this wealth of knowledge here but go in hoping for the best. But prepared for the worst. Every truck is different. If don’t want to cut on your truck, you shouldn’t be attempting something that requires most to do so. If you don’t have to, it’s just a bullet dodged. To sum it all up, until everything is bolted up and on will you truly know if it will fit. Here’s some pics just for fun!

 

I have 285/75r 16s 0mm offset myself and it rubbed when stuffed. I installed SPC UCAs and set +4 caster to clear. You dont need to do that if you dont go on the dirt.

 

Looking good man! How’s she ride?

 

Great lol. The front definitely sucks up the hits better, the rear progressive pack made a huge difference. Especially towing my small trailer. Extremely happy with everything.

 

Agreed.

 

Sweet, glad it turned out well!

 

Appreciate your help!

 

Would you say that a progressive pack is better then an AAL? I plan to do 5100's on all 4 corners in the future with 285's.

 

To whom it may concern: I have 5100’s on 1st notch, 16x8 -12mm and 265/75r16 duratracs rubbed when turned and stuffed. I used a heat gun to push the fender liner bump in and trimmed off that little bit of plastic at the bottom. Still on some occasions I get a tiny bit of rub when backing up, turned and stuffed. I think some extra caster to push the wheels forward just a fraction of an inch would fix it. I’m considering 285/75r16 to get a bit more ground clearance (and hopefully the local girls at the mall dig it) and fully expect a set of aftermarket control arms to be a must to get the alignment I need to clear. Just remember, a lift to clear for street driving is a bandaid that won’t work off road. If it doesn’t clear at stock ride height it’s not clearing when you have a lift and compress the suspension. Your alignment, the specific tire model/brand and wheel offset matter a lot, so take other’s testaments with a grain of salt.

 

I think all you need is to ask the alignment tech to increase caster via the lower control arm adjustments next time you get it aligned. The added caster in UCAs actually moves the tires rearward, not forward. ( I know because I replaced my UCAs and made the same mistake, was rubbing the splash guards on stock tires, same offset wheels as you)

 

I think it depends on your load. If your unloaded most of the time the aal will be perfectly fine. I have a rtt and it still does pretty well. But I will be installing the Dakar’s hd leafs whenever they get here. I’m sure these will settle with as much weight as I’m carrying and I do tow my trailer almost daily. If I were looking to stay “level” I’d leave it alone but I do want to keep a little rake.

 

Agreed to that. I’m certain in off-road situations I could make it rub. I was one of the first few ppl to stuff 37s on a tundra and I learned ALOT from that venture. That being said I feel that if your beating around off-road that much, rubbing a little is to be expected. I’m pretty sure the rt is a shorter 285. I actually have MORE clearance than I had with a 265 geolander.