Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

So, this might be a dumb question, but when I went to take the skidplate off my LCA pivots, I'm noticing that the LCA bars and the center jack point on the crossmember are not "flat". Is that normal? the skidplate is now getting kind of "bent" around the center jack point. All of the mounting hardware appears to have gone on correctly/everything else looks fine, so I'm not really sure what to make of that.

 

Did you guys ever figure out the clunk? I wanted to remind you that a dry driveshaft slip yolk causes a very annoying clunk that feels like a basketball rolling forward and back in the bed of the truck. A little

$17 Ford XG8 Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz.

Ford XG8 blue paste grease will remedy that. Just figured I’d add because I was the happiest person when I figured out that issue

 

You going SUA?? Hopefully you measured your pinion angle at ride height before you took it all apart. That way you can just set the same pinion angle at ride height with the SUA setup then weld the perches on. Not sure just putting them at 180 from stock will get you what you need.

 

Nope. Shoot for the pinion to be 2° “Down” from the driveshaft at ride height.

 

You have to trim about an inch off the factory jack point for the skid to sit flush. The LCA kit was designed to give you every possible inch of ground clearance.

 

This

 

Awesome, thanks. I'll do that then. Much appreciated!

 

Thanks.

 

Thats something to remember for when we cut my truck apart.
Should we weld in a small flat piece to fill the hole once cut?

 

No point, if you put a straight edge across the lower pivot tubes you can see right where you need to cut the jack point. This way the skid will sit hard up against the jack point and act as a plate

 

Check.

 

What is everyone doing to paint the pivots?



Last time I used regular spray paint on a truck part it didn't work out well. Ambient temp was too hot during cure time, creating micro-crack spider webs.
That and the overspray + fumes you have to worry about if you don't have a backyard to do it in.

Plus with the way this thing appears to go on, I don't know if a spray can would get into the inside nooks and crannies for coverage to prevent rust.

This all makes Steel-It sound like the best idea. I have heard of people using it. (weldable coating)
If that is the case, how many cans are needed? Costs more than regular paint, at $30/can


Not sure if prep-work is recommended (steel wool, scotchbrite, chemicals, sanding, etc.) or if it's OK to just spray Steel-It straight on the part right out the box

 

That’s what I used. In black. I think that’s what most people use for it. Easy to touch up too when you scrape it.

I DA sand or wire wheel almost everything. Use an alcohol wipe and then go straight to paint.

 

Steel it is the better choice here. It’s how we did mine and if you prep the parts before install and then again after install you’ll be just fine. The steel it really gets in there well if you do thin coats

 

if you read the instructions from steelit it says to bead blast the surface first to create proper adhesion. you could also try using a true self etching primer instead which is never a bad idea

 

I might blast it then in that case

I've used self etch primer before but I don't know how weldable that is; it probably isn't
unless masking off the edges that will be welded so that everything else (main body) is primed but not the edges
in which case steel-it sounds better
because even then, with primer, it'd still potentially need paint and clear, which might be impossible to spray into nooks and crannies once the thing is welded on the truck

 

@TacoTuesday1 POR15 is the way for long term durability. SteelIt is a good option too. Regardless...



It's all about the prep. Curly knew it.

 

Do not weld through a finish. Take it down to bare metal first.

 

Phosphoric acid etches steel too. It’s needed for POR 15 adhesion on clean metal.