Water Bypass Pipe No.1

Torque values from FSM: Units are in N*m (kgf*cm, ft*lbf)

 

Update for everyone who pulls their intake mani off to replace the bypass pipe. I tried to get by reusing this and my MPGs took a serious dump. Was getting around 16mpg then after replacing my intake mani gasket it was down to 13. I pulled the mani back off and replaced this, and now im back in the 16.5 range if i drive it carefully. Mine was all wallered out on one end from me pulling it off a couple times previously. Probably would be a good item to replace while you have the intake manifold off.

 

Thanks DGXR but pics aren't showing up!!

 

Is anyone else not seeing the pictures in post # 206 ?

 

I am not, here is what i'm seeing

 

OK I fixed the pics in my post above. Let me know if you still can't see them.

 

Got one of these from Norwalk Toyota for $7.23 and a PCV valve for $6.03.
Also got a valve cover gasket and "seal" for the spark plug holes, that's a different but similar project... might do both at the same time.

 

I see them

 

what's the difference between NEW OEM TOYOTA 05-15 Tacoma 2.7L WATER BYPASS METAL PIPE w/ GASKET 16268-75110 and NEW OEM TOYOTA 05-17 Tacoma 2.7L WATER BYPASS PIPE METAL w/ GASKET 16268-75130. Any reply appreciated.

 

The only difference is the metal tab in the middle of the pipe. That tab is not used on the 2.7 models and I understand both pipes will fit the 2.7, by what I have read. I got the one without the tab (75130) and it fits great.
The torque on the flange nuts (front end) and the mounting bolt (back-end) is all 13 ft-lb per the diagrams I posted above. The intake manifold nuts & bolts are 18 ft-lb.

 

Thank you for the reply and pictures. Looks like you did the job - how difficult was it ? How long did it take ? Any tips on procedure ? Thanks again - appreciate any information.

 

Yes I did it Saturday. 2.5 / 5 difficulty, not easy but not hard. I took pictures of all the electrical, vacuum and fuel connections that I took off during the process. This helped me make sure I got everything back together properly. Be sure you have all the new parts, including the metal pipe and flange gasket, new intake manifold gasket, new short vacuum hose, and I think that's it. You could probably reuse the intake gasket and vacuum hose but it would suck to get halfway through the job and find out they are toast and now you need to buy parts. Or even worse, re-use the old parts and have running problems / engine codes afterward due to vacuum leaks. You can definitely re-use the rubber throttle body gasket -- I got a new one but it didn't fit so I reused the old one anyway. Keep all fasteners organized, there aren't too many, just the intake assembly, the throttle body, and the intake manifold fasteners. Don't forget about the two intake manifold bolts down low, I accessed them through the wheel well with a very long extension lol. My total work time was 5-6 hours and this includes doing the thermostat and related gaskets "while I was in there."

Aside from the obvious tip of doing all your research and getting torque specs, parts, etc., the biggest tip I can give anyone on this job is the short vacuum hose on the back side of the manifold. It's back near the firewall and I believe it's part of the PCV system. (Attached below is a picture of the hose installed, and another picture showing the stud in the head and the vacuum line for the hose.) Here is the tip: instead of wrestling with the manifold and the hose and the manifold mounting stud (they all seriously disagree with each other), it is MUCH EASIER to remove the stud from the head. This way you can get the vacuum hose connected easily, then push the manifold up into position and then reinstall the stud to hold it all into position. Start with the short hose already attached to the back of the manifold, and push it up onto the PRE-LUBRICATED vacuum line (put some spit on it). Be careful not to disturb the intake manifold gasket during the install, the gasket is held into the manifold pretty well so it should be OK, just be mindful of it. I cannot tell you how much easier the install process was with the stud removed. You can remove the stud with a small socket, the tip of the stud is a hex shape and I got it out fine, but if yours is really tight in the head just be careful not to break that tip off. Or just get the stud out however you can, and if it's mangled just replace it (another part to buy). I don't know the torque spec for installing the stud into the head, but I would say it doesn't matter much since you're fastening the nut onto it anyway. Just get it tight. Having done this job once, now I could do it again in a couple hours. Sorry this reply is so wordy. Good luck and let me know if I can help more.

 

Wow ! Thanks for the write up - lot of great information. Appreciate all the information - and thank you for your time and knowledge. Wish you weren't 3K miles from me.

 

Tackled this project before reading all the posts so of course the vacuum line got me after I had reassembled it and then on the reassembly the bottom right bolt above the starter fell off the extension behind the starter so had to remove that…
Now I still have a drip from the heater core hose i searched a few minutes for the part number need a better diagram…anyone have that or a good parts source manual link ? Sorry if it’s here and i have not found it I hope it’s just the hose needing a bit of a wiggle or the clamp… radiator reservoir hose from cap also drips seems like once pressure increases on here issues arose around other weak connections my luck and Murphy’s law thanks for all the help anyways !

 

I think one of those hoses that attaches to the bypass pipe near the firewall, one of them was kinda rough at the end so I trimmed off maybe 8-10mm to get a fresh end on the pipe. Probably doesn't help you but I hope you can fix this drip with a quick wiggle of the spring clamp... hope you don't have to take it all off again.
My coolant surge tank / reservoir has some pink crusties on it too but that's been going on for at least 6 years. Kind of annoying but not a big deal, not enough to notice a drop in the coolant level.

 

Unfortunately I don't think the little bastard vacuum hose is shown on that diagram. "Refer to Fig 12-01"

 

Whatsup- part number 87209 was the hose in question I believe the spring clamp has seated/sealed the deal although I check it regularly due to having a manual trans it seemed to have dropped down exactly along the bell housing and held a lot of residual coolant like even a week later 1 drop here and there and even this week I washed the underside after draining the trans and the water drops there showed up red once water was applied but been one dry otherwise

 

?? Just replaced plastic hose with Part No.: 16268-75112PIPE, WATER BY-PASS, The plastic hose has a rubber "O" on the bracket on the left side of the pipe - front of the truck side - the metal replacement has a metal flat gasket Part No.: 16258-75021GASKET - will this seal ? Thanks for any reply.

 

1st. To everyone that’s contributed to this thread THANKS‼️ This is why this forum is one of the best if not the best forum! It’s because of all the great info about this issue with the 2TR FE / 2.7L cooling system and the few other small things. Guy’s when I was looking to purchase another Taco I would look up the High Book Values and some are asking $2k to $5k over high book values I would call owners selling Taco’s and ask nicely if they had booked the truck with the salvage title? Would you consider an offer? I had one guy say “F**k you it’s a Tacoma it will sell at the price” then slammed down the phone!

2nd. Guys has ANYONE here used the “HPS Silicone coolant hoses”. They sell a kit with what looks like upper, lower radiator hoses and two long heater hoses? I’m the type of person if we had to jump in a vehicle and drive across the country I don’t have to worry about any of our vehicles breaking down.

3rd. We are picking up a 2005 that has a 151k miles on it because some slick salesman talked me out out mint condition 15 Taco! So I was thinking about replacing all wear items under hood and most of the undercarriage. Being new water hoses are cheap compared to ones that let go especially if they let go in BFE. I have had this happen before and it wasn’t fun! If I need to purchase a $1000 plus in maintenance parts so be it! Plus as hot as it gets here in convection oven AZ I like to replace every part that has water flowing through it. I found the upper & lower Radiator hoses but I’m having a hard time trying to locate the heater hoses and the other small formed hoses. Like I said earlier I found an HPS kit but I was wondering if it includes ALL the “Coolant” hoses? Anyone know?

4. Like above thinking I should replace ALL the hoses, serpentine belt, two idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump, thermostat and anything else that may fail especially this one in the thread. Again THANKS for an informative thread!

5. Any suggestions or words of wisdom anyone would like to suggest being replaced maybe something you had to replace in the pass? I fill these older Tacoma’s will last for ever with proper service / maintenance.

6. Any aftermarket manufacturer better than the others? Like to purchase some parts from places like RockAuto

7. Should I replace the coil pack wires if they can be replaced? New plugs for sure!

8. I’ve ordered the low side PS hoses, installing a magnetic trans filter & very small cooler for the PS. And replace the steering rack bellows. I see they split as they age.

9. Shocks are getting replaced with coilover’s & check the brakes maybe another set of StopTech’s. Damn things are pricey‼️

10. So if you or anyone else can let me know what’s failed I would Greatly Appreciate it‼️

Thanks in advance guys for any advice or words of wisdom!
Randy

 

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