Troubleshoot help please - Low oil light then engine noise - Oil pump?

Thanks, and yes the problem is its an automatic. I guess in the past on other cars I would just hold the flywheel like you say. I just saw a video however where with an automatic, the guy feeds a rope down into the cylinder and when the piston comes back up it jams the crank from turning. I guess it would work, and I doubt it would hurt anything. I may have to use this trick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPYy5i_fatM

 

So Here is the update... I got it all together and just finished the flush now. Engine sounds great, running at idle and problem fixed, so must have been the cam chain tensioner clogged up was the concerning noise I thought may have been the oil pump. I am about to drain the hot flush oil out and refill. However I have a new problem...

I have zero accelerator. If it were an old car I would know I had forgot to connect the cable. But with this being electronic, I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated

 

Is the harness plugged into the throttle body?

Glad you got it running well again!

 

Yep, I checked all plugs/connectors are in. Maybe I should take out and re-plug. That was my first thought was a plug was off.

 

That or the harness was pinched/damaged, during the repairs. Hopefully a rather simple fix.

 

OK, don't think its the harness. What it does is when I start it up, it will accelerate OK, but then once I bring it down to an idle it will go up and down on its own a bit as its not keeping a steady idle RPM, then my accelerator doesn't work unless I restart it. Does it every time. I am used to the truck when after I take off the battery and put back on, it never idles correct, almost dies until the computer finally corrects it usually after driving about 15 minutes; it has done that for as long as I can remember. Not sure if its related. I'm not sure if there is a separate connector for a throttle position sensor and I missed it. Maybe that's it.

 

So I took off the throttle body, cleaned the inside and used a little WD40 on the pivot points. Then cleaned the master air flow meter prong with some gas (I think that was the issue as it was quite dirty). Started it up and everything works fine, idle normal etc. I will post this evening my "after the flush" final update pictures of what I got out of the lower pan and oil etc later. For my test drive, I Need to run to town right now for the first time in a month...

 

All right!!

Score one for the good guys!

 

Hi guys, so here is the update. Drove to town total driving around about 2 hours with all the stops. Everything working great and sounds great. After the build I did my "poor man's flush" to clean out any of the loose sludge I had knocked loose from the pressure wash of top end and to try to reach many of the internal areas I couldn't reach. I couldn't afford throwing away $50 of new clean oil for a 20 min flush (regular motor oil is $10 a quart here), so I opted to use a cheap soy cooking oil 4 Liters, but I first added 1/2 Liter ATF, 1/2 Liter Kerosene, and 1/2 Liter Diesel fuel, then the cooking oil with new filter of course. Started it up and all sounded good so I continued to idle it for 20 minutes. I then turned it off and drained out the hot oil and let it drip dry. Pulled the lower oil pan off to check the pickup screen again and what had ended up in the pan. I was glad I did... plenty of junk made its way to the bottom (about 2 TBS) and the new clear oil was quite dirty after just 20 minutes with the screen showing new crud. I cleaned it all back up, put the pan back on and another new oil filter and filled it up with motor oil and 3/4 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. I will keep an eye on the color of the oil to see when I may want to change it again. Also, I took a pic of the inside of the throttle body before I cleaned it all up. Thanks for all the help. Here are the pics...

 

You've been quite thorough and it has paid off. You saved your future self some problems by dropping that lower pan. Well done.

Is that rust on the back of the blade of the throttle body?

Also, how is it running now?

 

Hey, no rust, its made of some kind of aluminum material I think, or maybe brass, just stained and that's the metal you are seeing. The black is like carbon, that cleaned off quite easily. Reminded me of brake shoe carbon. I'm not sure if the cleaning made a big difference but it did seem to be sticking when I would open the valve wide open and it would come back to close and stick about 1/2" from closing totally from the springs and gears in the motor I couldn't open as its sealed shut with rivets. So I just sprayed the WD-40 at the pivot points to give better movement and kept opening and closing until it would close by its own spring pressure. That could have been an issue, but I still think the no throttle problem was the Master air flow being so dirty. Its like the computer would let me rev it when first started, then it took the throttle off line. Weird. But all is working well now. I am sure glad I took the pan back off because I was pretty sure I would have had some junk that fell down into the engine where I couldn't get to, such as in the upper pan, even though I blew with air a lot. Thanks for the help and being a sounding board as I went through it. My first time for this truck and hopefully the last.

 

I for one am super happy it worked out for ya man. This is great

 

I applaud creative solutions to problems that defy convention and cynicism.

 

Hey, yes I know everyone said no on the soy cooking oil, but I had done my research so was confident in the lubrication properties and heat stability especially for a short 20 minute flush at idle. We don't have a lot of resources where I live in Costa Rica, nor much money, so needed to work with what I had to get it going

 

next time U intend to drop the pans ( not drop Ur pants )

if anyone has a steam pressure washer

200 + degree o plain water nozzled down the return passages

will dislodge & flush most all sludge cleaning out oil passages

only takes a day for engine to dry out

new gaskets then buttoned back up = good 2 go

much more effective than soy + marvel mystery oil