Decreased Power?

Owned my 2013 4.0L Sport since new. Just in the past 2-3 months, I feel like the power output is less. Mostly at higher highway speeds - just seems more sluggish.

Synthetic oil just changed as well as a new engine air filter.

The engine air filter was pretty old/grubby. Definitely left it too long before replacing. We had massive forest fires/dense smoke this summer too which didn't help.

I did not clean the MAF sensor. Should I clean MAF?

Also, does disconnecting the battery re-set the ECU learning of the fuel/timing? (Used to have a Subaru STi which I think did that)

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Jay

 

Yes, clean the MAF sensor. How many miles on your spark plugs?

 

Just changed to new (

$11 NGK ILFR6T11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 1

NGK ILFR6T11 Laser Iridium) spark plugs at 100,00km so only have like 18,000 on new spark plugs!

 

Do the battery disconnect re-boot. An extraordinarily bad tank of gas can cause all sorts of trouble - and the re-set procedure is short and painless. I usually give the last tank of gas a good dose of injector cleaner (PEA additive). Refill with the best source of daily driver fuel - and disconnect the battery for a few minutes.

May take the system a minute or two to "re-learn" on start-up but don't stress over it. It may not start on the first try - but usually takes off and runs on the second.

 

Some folks have less than stellar results with the iridium plugs in these engines. I would recommend changing to a simple copper core plug set and see if this remedies your problem. It would be cheap and relatively easy to confirm. Seriously, give this a shot.

 

All good replies here. My money is on the MAF & throttle body being a little gunked up from the smoke. It's not like we're running HEPA filters in our air intakes.

Another obvious one is check your tire air pressure. That'll bog you down a bit if it's low.

 

I've cleaned my throttle body a couple of times and each time it was a pretty clean to start.
Although, I drive in pretty clean conditions. Still worth checking. Just do it when the engine is cool or the cleaner will evaporate before it has a chance to do any good.

 

Might want to post your mileage and type of transmission bud. It would help us make suggestions easier.

 

2nd yes to MAFS cleaning. No offense, but for you to have to ask, I would recommend learning how to do it properly. YouTube has many good how-tos on this. Very sensitive device and not cheap to replace. Also, Throttle body cleaning might add to the overall responsiveness. Also, plugs and even plug wires under the right conditions often can rob high rpm performance. How many miles did you say? Many overlook weakened fuel pumps or restricted flow fuel filters on high mileage trucks.

 

Well here's more to consider, There is an alarming rate of reported counterfeit NGK iridium plugs being sold on eBay yes even Amazon. Frankly what I am hearing is symptoms much like what you are describing with your loss of power and even have heard of damage being caused by them.

Sorry to be that guy but I would check it out. The last guy that I learned about did a video showing how to spot the diff. It was insane, I would never pick up on the subtle differences in packaging and the plug them selfs. The only way to know for sure is to call NGK customer service and confirm their lot number. At least that's what the guy I'm speaking of did. Anyhow, sure enough, they were fake. This is why I only buy plugs from the dealer these days.

Sorry to be alarming, but this is a real thing nowadays. I would find the box and be on the phone with them ASAP. Good Luck and please keep us posted.

One of many videos on the topic,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lr9J3eQk-kE

 

X2 on the tire pressure at highway speeds.

 

There are no spark plug wires to replace. We have coil over plug ignitions.

 

Thanks guys! Truck is an automatic. 118,000Klm.

I'll clean MAF first and see how that goes.

Will report back soon.

Jay

 

I had noticed this too on my 2012 about 2 years ago. I cleaned the throttle body as suggested using a post here and I couldn't believe the difference it made it felt like a new engine haha! I tow a ~5000lb boat too so the increased power was notable and very welcomed as well.

 

If you're going for MAF, do throttle body at the same time. It's an extra 10-15 minutes.

 

Thanks for the video/info!

While I'm not 100% certain, I'm pretty sure I got authentic ones. I didn't spend $25 for a 6 pack on Amazon like this guy did but more like $130 for six

 

Thanks, can I use the same MAF cleaner on the throttle body or is it a different cleaner?

 

Know way to know without contac

No way to know without contacting NGK with your lot number information. Understand that the price you paid has nothing to do with it. Certainly worth the time of a phone call.

I may add that I actually had the occasion to call them myself for plug to plug comparison information. The tech answered my call on the 2nd ring and fired right back with the information I was seeking.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/about-us/contact


CUSTOMER SERVICE
1-877-473-6767, dial #3
hours: 8:30am – 5:00pm
Monday-Friday EDT

TECHNICAL SUPPORT
1-877-473-6767
Dial #1 (Application Support)
Dial #2 (Advanced Tech Support)
hours: 9:00am -5:00pm
Monday-Friday EDT

 

Right you are, sorry, speaking in general. In this case perhaps a new boot & spring kit with the sparkplug replacements. (condition dependent) If it has been a while or never it's a good idea to have them on hand.

 

I don't know. I went to Advanced Auto and bought the CSC MAF cleaner and the CSC Throttle Body cleaner. I didn't compare ingredients.