New truck owner- few questions about 4X4, reliability, etc.

I can personally tell you after doing several snowmobile trips to quebec from connecticut that fluid film with totally wash off by early spring or sooner and you will start seeing surface rust. You guys have nastier highways than down here.

 

The owners manual has a lot of that information, especially the fluid changing intervals.

But to actually answer your question, I find 4 HI engages just fine at speed if you're off the gas pedal. Granted if you're at the point where you need 4x4 you should already be doing somewhat under the speed limit.

I'm stock and don't have the 360° cameras so I don't have any experience there.

I used to be skeptical about the 10k mile oil change intervals (16K km) but oil has come a LONG way since the days of conventional oil where 3K was the requirement. At that point I was still doing 5K (8K km) oil changes. However I inspect my dip stick and the oil still looks brand new at 5K and so I kept going. Still looked new at 9K as well. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations and you'll be fine. Many on here have even gone as far as to send in their old oil for analysis which confirmed the recommendation.

 

Gotta go with Woolwax. I still have lots of that on my frame from last November through a Michigan winter and quite a bit of rain as well as high pressure car washes.

 

I went one better cosmoline rp-342. Mercedes and bmw both send their cars out with it. Military has been using it on their vehicles, and equipment for. I did my truck over a year ago, upon inspection this summer looks just like i did it.....after a winter, and all the muddy dirt, wet roads here the chassis is still super clean. This stuff doesn't attract all the road crap like fluid film.

 

Ahh, much more reasonable then. Thanks for the heads up

 

I've religiously used Krown for decades. Not sure I'd mix it with Fluid Film. You could buy cans of Krown if you want to touch up before winter.

As for 4x4, your supposed to engage it monthly('ish). You can do 4hi on the fly up to 100 kl/hr, (I believe). You can test it on grass, dirt, mud or especially on a rainy day you could drive it in 4hi, as we all know how light the rear end is on a truck. Don't be shy to test out 4low, Rear Diff & Crawl Control. Just come to a complete stop, put it in Neutral, then shove it in 4 low. Put it into drive, and drive away. It may take a few seconds, but it's that simple.

You'll love the 2/1" lift, and you will want to upsize your tires to a nice aggressive A/T tire like the Duratracs, etc....

I love my 265/75/16 Duratracs, but since the Lift, I now want bigger tires. My next tire purchase will be 33" 255 pizza cutters.

Good luck

 

Lol... it's not a marketing ploy, you're the one literally spouting oil company propaganda. I sent your post to a Jiffy Lube manager and he said he'd hire you tomorrow

Thousands and thousands of used oil analyses have shown 10k miles and even higher is perfectly fine for the majority of people. Unless you tow or drive mountains CONSIDERABLY more than the average person, you are a normal driver and can go with 10k miles.

 

I went 18-20k miles once a year on my 2001 4.7 tundra with mobil 1 5-30w, and mobil oil filters. I swear that engine ran just as strong at 292k miles as it did when new. Imo, changing oil sooner than 10k miles is just pissing away money, not to mention resources. Gotta ask yourself how long do you really need to keep this truck before everything else wears out in it, and becomes obsolete.

 

I believe when that is applied when new it is fantastic! Not sure about after that but I haven't heard anything bad about it. Everyone is usually talking about rubberized undercoating.

 

You had an 335 and 328 over 300K with out problems. Well that is a first

 

Yeah, i took a garden hose and rinsed the entire brand new chassis off, and dried before making a very hot afternoon of it applying this stuff. I think its best off with a new chassis, or at least one thats been prepped by eliminating any surface rust by using a good wire brush then gone over with a rust converter like rustoleum, and then painted before applying the cosmoline.

 

Rubberized undercoating's imo suck. Your far better off using the other stuff like fluid film or crc type of rust inhibitor's.