Cruise keeps disconnecting

So, it's a 2007 Base with the TRD Off Road package/SR5 with the 6MT.

I have noticed, especially after it rained, that my cruise would drop out when I hit bumps, but sometimes it would just disconnect on it's own without a bump.

Should I look at the NPSS, or is this more likely to be a connector/wiring issue? Sometimes, pumping the clutch would 'fix it' for a while, but on big bumps, it'll still disconnect. The longer I drive, the more frequently it drops.

 

Sounds like a brake or clutch switch failing or out of adjustment, you could hold your foot under the pedal when you know it's gona do it and see if it still does if it doesn't do it when you hold the pedal up it's most likely the switch or the switch is out of adjustment.

 

Your clutch disconnect switch on the upper side need adjusted out a little. Look for a small push button switch with thread and. nut on it .

 

Cruise control drops usually when the brakes are applied, the clutch is depressed, or significant change throttle--this isn't always true.
So the bumps are sort of a clue to where to start looking. First, are there any warning lights on the dash when this happens? Next, Check to see if there are any stored faults that might indicate another problem. Like @Dm93 says, I'd shotgun both the clutch and brake switches. They're easy enough to replace. You can also try and simulate the problem by finding a low traffic area, set the cruise and then wiggle the brake pedal with your foot before you do that--might not cause the problem but I'd be willing to bet the brake switch is the cause. It's the cause for shift failures in AT vehicles (cannot shift out of (P)ark).

 

Hey, thanks for the responses.

I adjusted the clutch switch, but hadn't had enough time to go on a long drive to test it out. I just happened to get home after dark tonight, and noticed my brake lights were still on after I got out of the truck, so I've determined that it was either the brake light switch, or both the clutch and brake light switch.

I found a thread demonstrating how to adjust the switch, so I will do that tomorrow before I go to work.

Thanks a ton.

 

If that doesn't work, I would next check the clock spring/spiral cable.

 

In addition to adjusting, if it's still causing issues you can just jumper it out and monitor for changes. There are two clutch switches, one for the cruise control which opens as soon as the clutch is depressed, and one that closes at full clutch depression for the start circuit. I'd start there if the adjustment you made didn't have any affect.

 

I ended up adjusting the brake light switch after work today (yay for getting done before the sun sets!), and I'm 99% sure it's fixed now. Before, the slightest pressure would turn the brake lights on, and now, the brake pedal has to be depressed slightly before the lights come on. I mean, laying a finger on the end of the pedal would turn them on before, now you have to press down maybe 3-4cm for the lights to come on.

I did notice that the switch itself was really easy to release. There was almost no pressure required to unlock it, nor to lock it back in. Not sure if this was an ongoing issue with this truck for the previous owner, but I'm going to keep an eye on this for sure.

 

That was most likely your problem, the PCM disables the cruise if it detects a brake switch signal.

 

This is what happened to mine. Eventually, it wouldn’t stay in place. Easily replaced if it comes to that.

 

Yeah, it's stupid easy to replace, no tools even required. Maybe I should just order the part, and leave it in my tool box for when the time comes. I gotta get a keyless remote, anyway, maybe I can save on some shipping.

 

I bought mine then didn't have any trouble for a while so it sat in the cup holder for a while. Then one day, couldn't shift out of park. Reached into the cup holder and boom! Haven't had an issue since

 

Couldn't hurt to just replace the switch now, or very soon but I would surmise you've found the root cause.

Not a cruise issue, but I had a similar issue long ago with my 77 Chevy Malibu. Came out of work to tails on and dead battery. Turns out they were the brake lights. Closer inspection, the bolt holding the switch came loose. Did it again a few weeks later so I ended up drilling and adding a second nut/bolt and Loctite'd the hell out of it. I am sure the 1000 watt stereo I had in there was my problem though

 

I still have a bunch of spare crap from my Subaru laying around in my box, mostly a few coil packs and injectors. I should probably toss it all out and start making room for some Taco spares.

Yeah, I'll just toss it in as soon as I get it. As clean as the truck is, the area under the dash is pretty nasty (PO apparently had a dog, or three), it all needs cleaned out as well. Maybe give me an excuse to remove the iPhone charger/data cable from the current head unit, as much as I like the sound system, I don't have an iPhone 4S anymore, so the charger/data cable isn't useful to me (or anyone I know anymore, hah).

 

Oh, this reminds me... Does the Tacoma have a 'Runaway' mode? IE, if you hold the brake and throttle at the same time, it'll cut the throttle? This might explain a few odd power cuts I've had in the recent past... Though I still think it's the fuel pump or fuel pump resistor.

 

You'll have to check the recall status--there may also be a sticker under the hood. You could also look at the pedal and see if it's been cut or replaced.

But the "fix" was to retard the throttle when both brake and throttle are depressed at the same time. I felt like throttle response sucked after that recall. Since adding a Pedal Commander, I don't feel as if its a problem anymore.

 

I don’t mean to hijack the thread but I had that same car, it was great! You brought back fond memories when I read your post. I loved that car!

PS - This isn’t a pic of my car, but I had one very similar.

 

Niiiiice. Mine had the 2 round headlights, 4 doors for Grandpa and 6 in a row. Paint was faded to hell but it was free

 

Yeah, I actually verified this myself tonight. I just poked the brake hard enough to get the lights on, without actually slowing down, and the throttle cuts to 0%, regardless of what happens with the pedal itself. Let off the brake, and the throttle restores itself.

I've got a new keyless remote and a new brake light switch in the mail.