Sound deadening layers ...how much is too much??

Stuck at home for 10 day self quarantine while wife recovers from COVID. Bugging into garage and Installing multiple layers of material to quiet my access cab.

Question for you savvy DIYers is: How thick can you go before reassembly or basic rig integrity is hampered? By this I mean how thick before your "improvement" causes issues like headliner won't re-install properly (hangs or bulges down/outward)? Same with floor carpeting. I don't want to struggle when it comes time to put the cab back together. Or, even worse, find it's so thick that it won't... forcing me to go back and remove stuff! (Arrggh!)

 

Search sound deadening in the search box.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/search/14585928/?q=Sound+deadening&t=post&o=date

 

Follow the vendors recommendation. Over head installation go butyl base (stays up where its put). If you feel rich cover with a second layer of different density. I used a butyl based with aluminum foil backing. Covered with the recommended foam layer.

For doors and back wall. Butyl based, foam and a high density mass loaded vinyl. At the 3rd layer it did start to get tougher to put things back together.

 

I did, thanks, and read a lot of various threads. But I didn't see thus specific concern addressed... and I really don't feel like re-reading everything all over again. LOL

I've applied the butyl, then a 157mil foam, now prepping to apply 317mil MLV. Just don't want to over do it or, as I said, go too much and have to go back and rip out $$$ product for nothing. :-\

 

I only did the back wall, placed breathable foam in the two vents and a pool noodle low between the cab and bed. Most of the cab noise it seems comes from the back wall and the two vents. The pool noodle provides a barrier between the road noise and the two vents. The noodle is pressed in past a metal lip so its not going anywhere. I only reinstalled the back panel leaving out the head rests and seats.

I was shocked at the difference, cab is much quieter now. I used Noico silver.

 

I started with Dynamat. Nice, but that stuff gets expensive quickly. I switched to a product called Siless. Found it on Amazon. Cheaper, does a great job and is easy to work with. Nice thing is that their MLV (the 317mil) is adhesive backed, so it sticks / hangs like a dream. Their butyl-backed product has shiny foil instead of black like Dynamat. The foil's thick and waffled/gridded, making it a little simpler to determine where to trim. Also makes it easier to see if you have full and proper adhesion, as the waffles flatten out as you roll the material on. Eliminates some of the guesswork.

Speaking of... I also bought one of those roller applicators but returned it because it was too big to use inside my doors. Impractical. Ended up just using the back side of one of the three of the plastic pry bars that came with an auto trim removal tool set I bought a couple of years ago, depending on the width of the space available. They're smooth and slide over the back of the material without dragging or snagging, so it's actually easier and faster for me than the roller. Offers good leverage to press the material flat, plus I can work the material into and underneath areas the roller could never reach. It's sort of like mashing down a batch of tollhouse cookie dough into a baking pan. LOL

 

Sounds interesting. Can't quite picture the noodle set up. (It's late and I've been crawling around in my truck cab for almost 10 hours.LOL) They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. You have any pics??

 

I'm curious about that too. I just bought a 3rd gen that the original owner removed all of the plastic from behind the rear seats. The back of the cab is all metal. Need to do something but sound deadening material is the first step.

 

I use carpeted floor mats plus all-weather floor liners. Helps a lot with sound deadening.

 

also want the pool noodle pic..

 

I did my back wall and some of the floor. Helps for sure, especially when I have my rear seat delete in.

https://youtu.be/OpjfGSxHBj0

 

Same here

 

The noodle needs to be the right size. The largest noodle was too big and the small noodle to small.

This one was on the large side and was a very tight fit, had to press on it for 10 minutes to get it past the metal lip but once in place it's not going anywhere.

Not my idea, read about it in another quieter cab thread. It provides a noise barrier between the road and the two vents on the back wall.

 

That looks like daylight coming from the other side. Is that open at the bottom behind the plastic trim panel?

 

Thats under the truck looking straight up at the gap between the cab and bed.

 

Ahhh.Gotcha! I was picturing something inside the cab. I can see how that would work to intercept road noise coming up the back if the cab and in thru those vents. Will definitely look into this. What is the diameter of the noodle, if you can remember??

 

So you squished it up there from underneath? Or come down from above?

 

From underneath, there is a metal flange to get past which locks it in place once you get the noodle over it.

 

Top notch

 

Are any of yawl treating the doors with fluid film or something equivalent for anti rust before the deadening , will it adhere ?