Synthetic oil change every 10k?

I didn't ever say the base broke down. I know better. Even piss-poor petroleum oil will still lubricate long past it's recommended use life. It is the additive package that is consumed, boils off, gets used up, and depletes. I said that right at the beginning of this thread. I also pointed out that is the main reason US conventional oils are not authorized for use in Europe. They fail the volatility tests mostly because of losing the additive package.

Also, I never said that I use Mobil 1.

Mine is a dibasicacidester, a Group V oil, and is one of the chemically engineered oils. I'm happy with it and I trust it.
I was speaking about my oil, my experiences, and my company facts. So I may have mislead by making all synthetics oils sound to be equal across the board. Not my intention to mislead. (Though I'll bet the majority of them will hold up equally to whatever most Tacoma owners throw at them.) I never tried to claim a brand or claim what someone should do; only said what I do.

This all started by my simply pointing out that there is tremendous life left in the drained synthetic oil when it comes out at 5k or 10k. It's a shame to waste it. CAN YOU DISPUTE THAT? With facts of course.

I did find flaws with the video and said as much. See post #61.

As far as internet BS... "worked in the labs" is not the same as being a Scientist at that lab. You could have been the beaker washer. You would have said you were a scientist if you are. So, your credentials and BS are as suspect as mine, right now.

 

yeah....welll......mine's bigger n yours...... pfffffftttttt.

 

Very true with your 4.0L

 

I do like the polar opposite opinion. They are fascinating to read.

The longest car I ever owned was something that went to 410k miles on original engine and trans. Exclusively on mobil 1.... said car required 3-5k oil changes which I extended to 10-12k and sent a few samples to Blackstone (@270k and near 400k) which confirmed that 10k was perfectly fine.

 

I had '63 Buick Skylark. Purchased it in a blind auction between me and the junkyard. Previous owner was my Father. Don't know how many miles were on the thing, but Dad ran it for a couple years without the Odo working.

Anyhow, I was a broke HS student with a part time job. Couldn't afford canned oil, instead I bought bulk oil from the local Big Bear farm store. That car leaked every fluid....... anyhow, I couldn't keep up with the oil replacement or changes. I discovered I could get Used motor oil from several full serve gas stations. This is what I used. We had a gravel driveway, Dad asked me to quit parking in the same spot because my car was making an oil puddle. It happily ran on the used motor oil for nearly 8 months...... On graduation night, the 200 cu.in. V-8 decided it had 1 too many connecting rods to eject the superfluous rod thru the side of the block. Now, I was on my bicycle......

So, yeah, an engine will run on old used motor oil. Even an engine built in1963. I acquired the car in 1976.

I certainly wouldn't recommend using old oil or extending changes.

I truly believe the best advice is to follow the Oil Change Interval as stated in the Owner's Manual for your specific truck. Use the multi-viscosity as recommended that meets the API specification as detailed in the OM. Always change your filter at each oil change.

 

I do too. I can always learn from a good discussion. I like hearing other sides to things, other experiences, other techniques.
I've come away from Tacoma World with being shown some great ideas before. Good people with good knowledge out there.

And Knute's comment about size was just funny. Jocularity is usually a good thing. I'm just glad he owns a 4.0L which allowed a response.

 

I find your definition of “run” rather funny as the engine did pop.

 

Hey that ol' Buick went thru the mill.

Prolly had close to 200k on it when I got it. It got run hard under my new found driving skill.

Remember, I had to outbid the junk yard in a blind auction. Dad was in the process of scrapping it.

 

So much material here...I'll try to stay on-topic.

Something you might want to consider is the RPM range that engine in your old Buick ran at; I'm betting it's redline was way less than the redline in a modern vehicle. For instance, I used to own a stock '60 Ford Falcon with a 144CI in-line six. That car never had a Tach but I doubt that engine could turn much faster than 4K RPM, probably less. In normal driving it likely stayed under 2K RPM most of the time. My point is low engine speed probably contributed more to long engine life in older engines then did the oil. The same can also be said for the large Diesel engine's which over the road Semi's use; their engine's redline just north of 3K RPM. In this case slow engine speeds are likely a major contributing factor in extending engine life.

Now fast-forward to today and factor-in how much engine tolerances have changed, how much faster engine's rev and for long-periods of time and how we now have fuel injection, VVT, Atkinson Cycle and there aren't very many similarities between the engine in a '63 Buick or a '60 Ford and the engines in a 2nd Gen or a 3rd gen Toyota. Oh, and the oil's we can get today, even conventional non-synthetic oils are way better than any oil which existed in the '60's. IMO It's these advancements in engine technology and oil chemistry which allows us to have both extended oil change intervals and engines which routinely go 150K miles plus with minimal repair (if any) and maintence.

Or change your oil every time your cat coughs-up a hairball in the middle of the night. I really couldn't care less.

Personally, I'm glad that engine (and oil) technology has improved so much in the past ~50 years. I'm in no way a Tree Hugger but I like knowing that being able to do oil changes on my modern vehicles half as often as I have to on my older cars (currently a '67 Air Cooled VW fills that role) does make me feel good.

 

No skin off my back. I could care less what you do to your truck. If you want to live with blinders on go for it.

 

First of all... Where do you get the NERVE to suggest civil discourse of data?

 

With many modern synthetic oil offerings, 10,000 or more is easily achievable depending on driving style and environment. It is the oil level and the filter that you may want to keep an eye on while doing regular engine fluid checks etc.. With a mid-life filter change depending on what filter your running.

I see on-shelf filters bosting 20,000-mile intervals these days but don't know what they have changed to offer such confidence from yesteryear's offerings. So I do drop and replace my filter at 5K but much like the oil I wonder if I am throwing them away at 1/2 life.

 

3x OEM Filters - $16 Dollars

$20 Genuine OEM Toyota Lexus Oil Filter + Drain Plug Gasket 04152-Yzza1 Set Of 3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07985JTSK?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details ($5.33 apiece)
10x Oil Plug gasket - $9

$11 Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OW6MD6?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details ( $.90 cents apiece)
Mobil One Full Synthetic 5 Quarts (I'm aware it's 6 quarts so add a few more dollars for a quart) - $23

$25 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20, 5 Quart

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120903...ive&sprefix=mobil+,automotive,197&sr=1-4&th=1 (Maybe $27 dollars)

And if you have too USAF Auto Hobby Shop - $10

Your prices are inflated. Rounding up, with taxes, you're looking at $48 dollars (being generous). Your dealership is $77 dollars. Almost $30 dollars saving.

 

Did it have a posi rear end? Was it a mint metallic green color? Did you steal any tuna?

 

Your truck takes 6.2qtrs so you would need to buy 2 qtrs $5-7 per bottle. But you would buy a second 5 qtr jag to offset the cost of 1 qtr bottle. Which will bring you to $50 on the oil alone. Filter, washer, oil wrench, torque wrench, oil drain pan pan, funnel will bring your 1st diy oil change cost well over a dealer price . 2nd will cost less. But if you factor in a tire rotation , the pricing would include a cost of a floor jack, stands, etc .

 

Appreciate the research pricing...I ended up paying $67.70 which is $10 cheaper than I estimated.

Still, $20 bucks is $20 bucks. Once I start doing my own oil changes at the Auto Hobby shop on base, I will have pricing to compare.

Ed

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@Kev250R ....

Kev....you missed the main point. See the quote from the end of my post.

Secondary point, any engine will run on shitty oil for a while, including engines from decades past that are nearly worn out.

Change as you wish.....

 

This morning, I checked under my truck for the oil change performed at the dealership on my Sport. I also youtube'd oil change because this is my first Toyota and I'm unfamiliar with what's required.

I check the drain plug and see just a smidge of oil around the head of the bolt--no oil drip on the ground. Then I see where the filter is located and check the cover plate bolt locations. All but ONE bolt is snug-fitted. The bolt looks like it frustrated the tech because it is screwed in at an angle. I noticed there is another hole on the frame and the cover plate...which leads me to believe the bolt was put on the wrong hole (expecting jokes about putting it in the wrong hole).

I did a full visual inspection at the dealership but did not crawl under the truck. Now that I know what to expect, I will check when I get my 10K mile oil change.

I'm gonna fix the cover plate bolt and verify that it goes in the other hole (again, expecting jokes).

It seems like laziness and maybe expediting a service may have contributed to this minor error.

Ed

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Okay, so I took off all the bolts and re-seated them. Man! they must have used the power gun to screw them bolts back on! I had to use elbow grease to get them removed. I'll be going back to the dealership tomorrow after work and showing them the pics on my phone.

I'm not angry...just disappointed. A simple task and it was rushed and bench-checked OK.

Ed

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With all this oil change talk, I got excited and changed my oil early @ 4700 miles and 5 months. The truck is very happy!

6 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum( I don't bother with the .3 quart)$30., Fram trillion mile oil filter $10., 15 minutes away from the wife(priceless), and done.

$28 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil, 5 Quart

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-Ult...6414ee42b3e&pd_rd_wg=I3BGs&pd_rd_i=B01M4KQR8U

$11 FRAM Ultra Synthetic Automotive Replacement Oil Filter, Designed for Synthetic Oil Changes Lasting up to 20k Miles, XG9972 (Pack of 1)

https://www.amazon.com/XG9972-Ultra...17--8-1--392-8&vehicleName=2019+Toyota+Tacoma

FYI, Fram has made the worst oil filter for the last 40 years, until a short time back when they started offering these latest filters. Now IMO, they are the best.