Need rear drums.

Just posting a pic confirming the OEM gasket. It is the white ring. Pretty much fused to the drum. Also, you can see that at 173k miles there's still a lot of material left on the shoes. Probably could have waited to 200k.

 

FWIW, still running the originals on mine currently at 226k. Checked them about a year and a half ago and they still had plenty of meat left. Obviously some of that is probably attributed to a bulk of my miles being highway...and me not braking like a soccer mom.

 

You just take the drum off and clean them ? Hard job ?

 

When I did mine, I wish whoever did the job in the past used the gasket - he/she did not. The gasket is to help prevent the drum from rust fusing onto the hub, although the primary point of the fusing occurs where the center of the rotor meets the the center ring of the hub, the rotor face rusting to the drum just adds to the problem/frustration.

I couldn't get my OTC drum puller on the rim of the drums either because the edge was rusted enough that it just crumbled where ever I tried to hook it. I had to use a combo of my CP 9x rivet gun with a hammer bit to vibrate around the lug area and heat/penetrating oil around the hub center. I also used a chisel to pound around the edge where ever I could.

I THINK I also read somewhere that it also allows just a minute amount of barrier so it reduces/eliminates the possibility of the drum squeaking at the hub/drum interface.

If you/person before you used the gasket, and it's "fused" to the hub/drum, just soak it a little with brake cleaner. It's just a loose piece of cardboard - no adhesive or anything.

 

No, I just pulled the rubber plugs from the inspection holes on the inboard side drum backing plates to see how much meat was left on the brake shoes.

 

The oval plug is for the adjustment spoon and the round plug is for brake shoe inspection.

 

I never paid any attention when I had my drums off.
I honestly didn’t know there was a “gasket”.

So, with out the gasket.
Will the drum sit to far in and hit the backing plate?
It looks like you did NOT have this problem? Correct?

I ask because, my rear axle seal is leaking.
And while I’m in there I plan to do the drums and shoes.

I’m really hoping the bearing makes it out “ok”.
Seriously contemplating doing it. Which means paying a lot of money.
Or buying a press, jig, and accessories to “attempt” it myself?

 

Doubt that would cause it to hit the backing plate, it's about the thickness of a business card. Once the wheel is torqued down it's probably 1-2mil at best.

 

I’ll know soon enough.
It’s coming off, sooner than I’d like.

My own fault.
I should have replaced that diff breather the first time.
The seal was blown OUTWARD the last time.
As if the there was a pressure build up, and pushed the seal out? (Factory seal)

Any suggestions on the “new” breather.
I’m routing it up to the bed cubby. Is there a “fully” open breather.
I’ve thought about using a lawn mower filter.

 

I'd re-use the OEM breather or just slap on a crank case breather, they are available cheap and plentiful at just about any auto parts store. I stuck mine where the gas nozzle is but if you're going to use a larger fully open breather like the crankcase you can probably put it in the cubby or behind the tail light.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...1tZwwrvrMSrsYeMUaX1pJBrrfZXxxRiwaAsL2EALw_wcB

 

I found this, if it is indeed a 2-way.
That might work for me. If the cubby get full of water, I have bigger problems.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-diff-breather.431400/#post-12679413

 

it's been so long since I've mucked with mine I don't remember if I reused mine or bought a new one. I didn't have any water in my axle and I've had it through some deep water over the years, even up above the gas neck filler.

 

As for drums I turned my old ones then in a few months a balance weight dropped off so got a new set at:
Drums at AutoAnything - Best Price & Reviews Should of saved my effort at saving cost by turning and just bought the new ones first. Used their shoes too and have the z36 pads and drilled/slotted rotors and will replace fronts with same after about 75k miles and nearly there.

As for the breather Amazon sells a 2 way and the hose and I put it high up behind the left taillight - easy hose run. Breather, 5/16 line, diff fitting all below:

$6 Dorman 924-284 Front Differential Vent Breather Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models

Amazon.com: Dorman 924-284 Front Axle Vent for Select Lexus / Toyota Models : Automotive

$29 PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 5/16" Inside Diameter X 25 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6

Amazon.com: PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 5/16 Inch Inside Diameter X 25 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6

$8 Toyota Genuine Parts - Union (90404-51319)

Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine (90404-51319) Union : Automotive

You will need 2 hose clamps too.

 

TnShooter - I REALLY doubt it would affect any clearance. The gasket is about as thick as a note card (do they make those anymore?). Plus, I would believe the vast majority of people doing drum brakes on Tacos don't even know about the gasket - including indie shops. I only know about it because I happen to look up some OEM part numbers before I did mine, and when I looked at the diagram I thought WTF is that thing?

 

I bought some supposed “new” ac delco brake parts off Amazon, pretty much replacing all brake parts on my old el camino. All of it was absolute junk except the drum spring kit, shoes and drums. The new front rotors were so bad they couldn’t be turned true. The bleeders fit really bad and leaked through the threads during bleeding. So I ended up buying whatever oreileys had over the counter to replace the parts that were unusable.

Someone mentioned new drums needed turning. Many times I’ve found new rotors off. So I get new rotors lightly cut. Usually they resist and insist it’s unnecessary. Then they say you’re right, it needed it.

 

A local machine shop does mine for me, for pennies on the dollar of buying a potentially new "out of true" rotor or drum. I'll keep getting the ones I have cut until they are at minimum spec. New stuff is hit or miss, so I stick with what I know works.

 

Ever since couple of shop owners told me they only use Centric because they've had the least problems (come backs) with them, that's all I've used. Note, though, they have a "cheap" line (I don't remember what the name is right now), and that's NOT the one I use. Best part is that they're NOT a high and expensive brand like Akebono or some such.

 

For a few seconds, from the picture I thought "hmmm...a bakery/deli that does brake jobs?"

 

hey it’s south jersey, everyone’s Italian down here so it wouldn’t surprise me

 

Ya, made me crave a meatball sandwich.