What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What transmission oil do I need for 01 3.4 automatic.

 

Here’s what I’ve used in the past

 

You identify where it's leaking from? Under the spring perch like others have experienced as well?

 

Thanks. Looks like it doesn’t have a certain number like motor oil does like 5w30 or something.

 

Monte, you're welcome to these spacers if you go with Corbeau seats (or I guess they would work with others as well). I made two sets. The short ones brought the seat up to stock+~.5", the long ones were stock+~1" (which I felt was too tall - I was ducking to see out under the headliner - and I'm also 5'10"). This is with Baja XRS.

Yep.

 

You can look it up on Walmart.com. Here’s the back of it where it lists the info

 

I did same thing. Using 1/4" spacers is perfect for the seats to be slightly over oem height

 

Wait the seats sit lower than stock from the get go? Yeesh. That's annoying haha

Did you just raise the front or the whole thing?

 

Yep, it's about 1" lower than stock, assuming you use the Corbeau brackets. Besides being too low to see over the hood (not quite that, but it definitely felt more like a 3rd gen), it also means there's not enough room under the seats for a ham radio (but I'm not sure you keep yours there).

I raised both front and back, which also solves the "room under the seat" issue.

You can see more details as usual, here: AdventureTaco - turbodb's build and adventures | Replacing My Seats with Corbeau XRS... Or Not | Page 220 | Tacoma World

You actually have me worried. Should I be? It's a fume thing, I suppose.

Also, two other questions:

1. Do I need to pull the axle? I wasn't planning on it, figured it didn't hurt to leave it in there.
2. If I drill the ends of the crack, do I need to worry about a few little metal flakes dropping into the housing? I assumed not on this as well, as they'll just wash down into the diff housing and come out in the next drain.

Note: it's the drilling (and so giving a direct path for the arc into the housing) that has me concerned about your fire comment, since I've obviously welded on the housing before with no issue whatsoever (shock mounts).

@Reh5108

 

I did not remove the axles. It was easier to roll around with them still on there and some steel wheels. Removing the housing just makes life more comfortable. The drain plug should catch any metal shavings left from drilling.

I had no issues with fire. Oil isn't as volatile as gas. I don't think it's much of a concern. Always a good idea to have an extinguisher handy though when welding.

 

Not an issue, I've always left the oil in my axle when welding leaf perches and shock mounts. I mean, the oil is there to act as a heat sink in the first place, right? You won't be putting enough heat into it to warp anything anyway.

 

I've always left the oil in there for those things as well, and so wasn't worried.

This time, I removed the oil (so it'll just be fumes) since I'm going to be drilling and don't want it leaking out the holes (and crack) as I weld. Plus, Ryan had a good suggestion of thoroughly torching (propane) the crack area prior to welding to burn out as much oil as possible.

But yeah, there isn't going to be much air in the housing anyway - esp with the axles still in there - so even if there was an issue, it wouldn't last long.

 

Good to know. I’m waiting for my Archive shock relocation kit and was wondering if I had to drain the rear diff when welding the lower shock mounts. Did you have to change the axle seals after welding?

 

New wheels and tires this weekend.

 

No, you shouldn’t have to change the seals. If you’re putting so much heat into it that the seals are warping/melting, something’s not right.

 

When you call a pipeline welder to do a hack's job

 

Might be different if you're welding shock mounts outside the leaf perches like the Archive kit. Especially if you an ABS housing with the inboard seals. You'd be welding right on top of them.

 

Didnt feel like this needed its own thread.
The u joint closest to my tcase on the rear driveshaft isnt lookin too happy. Driveshaft is from a 99, this u joint should fit correct?

$69 Genuine Toyota 04371-60070 Universal Joint

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...F8&qid=1522284375&sr=8-1&keywords=04371-60070

 

ATF type IV is what mine asks for so I'd double check

 

I have another stupid question --

While looking for options to replace my steering wheel, I noticed that mine is -- "was" -- actually leather-wrapped, which I guess makes sense because it's a Limited -- does this mean that if I cut away the destroyed leather, that there might be a perfectly good steering wheel underneath?