Lug wrench

The jack is another thing I may have to upgrade. The stock one doesn’t reach the frame I noticed recently

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5GoiVq4Uitc

 

You maybe got a dud. It seems most people find them pretty accurate.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mniNdd24IL0

 

Snap on and proto here.

That being said, Just get the husky one. Good warranty, decent quality, more than most people need. Also, just get a long ratcheting or non ratcheting breaker bar to get it lose. Can find those in pawn shops or at home deeps for cheep. Have a tekton one. It's ok.... should have got a husky

 

^ To put it mildly, lol.

In my experience, it was an expensive lesson in cheap tools.

I wish all the folks in all the world using budget instruments the very best, and I mean that.

 

I only have the 1/2” drove Tekton, but honestly, it’s really nicely made. My example was made in Taiwan, which I consider a mark of quality. The Taiwanese don’t fuck around for the most part.

 

Mine Tekton looked fine, too.
Outward appearance was no different than my current CDI, Snap On or P.I. wrenches.
The difference was, the Tekton didn't work, sadly.

 

I’m going to prove it against two torque wrenches I have. An Armstrong with N.I.S.T. cert and a Burndy one I have that I believe is a rebranded Blue-Point (Snap on).

 

No matter the outcome, it won't be time wasted, but you already know that.

 

I worked Aviation Overhaul. No matter how good the quality of any Torque Wrench, they're only as good as their last inspection and calibration. The accuracy changes with use

 

100%

 

I use one of these for lug nuts It measures pretty close to my craftsmans and takes up little space.

 

I carry a separate set (from home) in my truck. A husky torq came in a smallish hard case stores behind passenger rear seat and a slightly smaller than average breaker bar but coupled with a garage torsion tube for more leverage (it fits inside to store and wrapped in the tire bars bungee

Looking at the picture again it looks like the breaker is a 3/8 12”(I think I did this to multi purpose it if needed and limit Drive size/amount of additional sockets etc.) and the torsion tube 12”.

 

I have 4 sizes from hf and they have worked well for there occasionally use. I do make sure to follow the cycle it to max then min and set at the beginning and before storing. Maybe that has helped them last longer than others experience. The most used torque ftlbs for lugs did fail on me but I think it was an internal jam not a broken stud failure

 

For use to change a tire on the side of the road, no, a torque wrench in a bad idea. Leaving a torque wrench in your vehicle isn’t the best idea, and using it to undo lug nuts is really bad. Torque wrench for you toolbox in the garage, fine investment. For keeping in your truck use a decent expandable breaker bar and socket something like this.

$15 MTP 1/2" x 14-20" Telescoping Socket Breaker Bar Wrench 1/2 in Drive Ratchets

https://www.amazon.com/MTP-Telescop...Telescoping+breaker+bar&qid=1634607721&sr=8-3

 

I'm no mechanic, so a HF torque wrench works for me. For shits and giggles, I sent it to Micro Precision Calibration in Grass Valley and paid 2x more for a calibration check than I paid for the wrench. Passed all their tests.

 

I have one of these in all my vehicles.

$28 Gorilla Automotive 1721 Telescoping Power Wrench - Standard Socket

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-1721-Telescoping-Wrench/dp/B000CMJ2KU?th=1

 

A HF or Husky torque wrench ought to be sufficient for proper wheel torque for this application.
The main point is to use the proper cross torque technique sequence and avoid the over-tightening that can warp\damage components and cause annoying vibration issues

 

I've got like an 18"x1/2" breaker in my truck from HF. The head has a bit of slop in it, but I think some spacers will fix it. Like 15 bucks.

 

Maybe 10 years ago you could get one for 15 bucks. The cheap ones now are like 40 and the icon was about 65 I think. Could have been a little more.