Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Free harness for anyone who hits a deer and buys new headlights.

 

You're welcome!

We've also been experimenting with some "single strut" systems for situations like the Switch-Pro or some intake systems that make it impossible to use both struts. The single strut system seems to work quite well, you wouldn't know it had just one strut instead of two.

What's the level of interest in something like this?

 

Is it a different product than the double?

I have a switch-pros and also Spiker struts but haven’t attempted an installation yet and I was not smart enough to order spacers. I also am MT so the clutch fluid reservoir is in the mix and it’s tricky to mess with. Can we just install one side of the double or does it require a stronger mechanism?

 

Hi @Shellshock + @daveeasa, Thanks so much for your responses. If I can’t find another suitable fuse for these purposes in the engine bay (working today will check tonight) and splitting “INJ” fuse with the headlights and switch pro is my only option, how do I go about splitting? Apologies for what is likely a very basic question, just not knowledgeable about electrical, but I’m willing to learn. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Butt connector. One side to the add a fuse. The other side to your two IGN wires. The add a fuse comes with a pre crimped butt connector. So just buying a new $1 add a fuse plus cut and strip the other two wires and you are set.

you won’t get independent fuses but for low current that doesn’t concern me.

 

^what he said

 

You fellas made that sound easy, even for me. I’ll give this a go this evening and update everyone here. Thanks again. I really appreciate your time and insights.

 

What about if a person has dual air compressor or dual battery setup in that area in your picture of the single strut?

 

In my opinion interest would be high as it would theoretically also cut install time in half and make the project less challenging for those weary of the positioning and attaching process. (50% less things to go wrong/less than right )

 

I would've been interested in a one sided strut had I not JUST put the redline ones in which mostly worked with the switchpros/powertrays.
just needed to move the ground bus bar over a bit by drilling 2 holes



gotta make sure it wont interfere with the ARB compressor mount everyone uses too!

 

It would be the same concept, but using just one (stronger) strut instead of two. I was initially reluctant to go to the one-strut system, but with all the aftermarket components on either/both sides of the fenders, we got lots of requests for this. We tried it out, and it works surprisingly well. It's a little different on the way up, as one side of the hood leads the other by a little, but it's very hard to notice. As for the closing, it works very well as long as you push down on the hood on the same half as the strut - if you push on the opposite corner, it's still close fine, but it tends to torque the hood a little more than I'd prefer.

Dual battery setups usually work with our struts, as do some/many compressors, depends on installation. The bigger issues on the driver side are some of the CAI boxes, like Injen. So this would give you the option to mount the strut on driver or passenger side, depending on the obstacle. If you have obstacles on both sides, then there's a hood prop in your future .

That's a good point . Still, all else being equal, I'd recommend the two-strut kit, but this may be a good solution for those with unavoidable obstacles.

 

I'm definitely interested in what the future has in store with the hood prop.

 

I think you already completed your cut, but just in case anybody else finds this thread I wanted to add some photos of how we typically cut the trim using a hand saw. It cuts like butter.

 

Thanks for posting this. Does the switch panel still snap in securely with those two holes removed?

 

Yes

 

To add on to David’s Yes, I’m adding a picture that shows the clips used to retain the OEM & Aftermarket Left Switch Panels along the edge of the dash panel. Those holes are used only to retain the OEM cubby on those select trims with that original Left Switch Panel + Cubby. All the trucks even newer ones still have those retention holes though as the lower dash injection mold seems to be common across all 3rd gen trims.

I can confidently say none of the full left switch panel replacements I have benchmarked use these holes in any way.

 

Thank you both!

 

Hi Fellas - Apologies for the delay. All installed and working. Hallelujah!

@GuildOutfitters beat me to the punch and frankly did a much more thorough and overall prettier job then me but here is the cut I made using a dremel. Thanks again to everyone who lended a helping hand from a distance on this one.

 

It’s in and working! Your advice to connect both the headlights and the trigger to the INJ fuse did the trick. Many thanks! You fellas are the wind beneath my wings.

 

Working on my Switch Pros install. Fabed up a tray out of .100 aluminum to work with the clutch resiviour. Switch Pros module is mounted using the SDHQ bracket. The push button module is mounted with a 3d print I got off of Etsy.

Now to finish up the wiring..... Maybe tomorrow.