RCI vs CBI vs SOS skid plates

Got the exhaust reroute and ended up going with RCI Steel skids

 

RCI Aluminum skid on my truck. The skid has a few dings and scrapes from me going on a FS road that degraded to a 4WD rocky trail. I took the skid off to change the front diff fluid and the skid's holes still lined up.

 

When I ordered my aluminum skid plates I was keen on the weight savings, but now I find myself trying harder things because I have some armor. One misjudged dip in a trail the other day, and a rock dented the engine skid so good that it punched in one of the access panels and broke half of the welding around where it mounts. It was kind of a lucky shot on the rock's part, but I doubt I can hammer it back out very well. Now I'm wishing I had gone steel.

On another note, the CBI front skid seems to hang lower than other brands, or at least significantly lower than the stock bash plate. I found myself dinging rocks with that bottom front edge way more often than the stock plate. Has anyone else experienced that? I'm eyeing up the RCI front skid because it looks like it provides more ground clearance compared to CBI. Even though it hugs the engine closer, steel won't dent like the aluminum did.

 

I got a deal on a TRD Pro front skid, and i'm running full RCI aluminum skids everywhere else. They're light, shipped in a few weeks and are very well engineered and designed. YMMV

 

Depending on where you are located I have a brand new RCI steel skid plate for sale. Would like to sell locally (17113) but I can provide you dimensions of the box and weight of you are interested

ask w/o shipping is currently $275

 

1/4" steel

https://www.bayareametalfab.com/2005-2022-Toyota-Tacoma-Skid-Trilogy-_p_71.html

 

Most people route the crossover pipe aft of the transfer case actuator (the black plastic box). Looks like you kept the crossover pipe location and just shifted it higher? The pipe should be wrapped to lessen cooking of the transfer case and the front driveshaft U-joint.

 

I'd say RCI full skid- Went to play in a rock garden prior to my lift and those took a lot of abuse. I had to replace the oil port cover and they had the spare part over in a week. Imo I'd also go for steel

 

I have the RCI aluminum plate attached after my TRD Pro plate. I've hit a few rocks and it stayed solid.

 

Not a fan of CBI front skid, and with their lead times, they don’t really appeal to me on anything they make. They grew too big too soon, took over Prinsu and are months behind on pretty much everything. Ymmv

 

RCI lead times are on point

 

Jason @Speed Freek did this one for me. Based on his expertise I'm good with how he did it.

 

Heftyfab makes some nice stuff.

https://heftyfab.com/collections/tacoma-2016

 

Thanks for the offer but I'm all the way out in Arizona. Just gonna keep beating on the skids I have for now.

 

That is a mighty pretty front skid. Based on the oil filter access hole it seems like they have done their best to design with clearance in mind. $500+ is a big Ooof. I get it, such is the cost of well thought out manufacturing in a small shop. I'm going to have to sleep on that though. Or get really drunk...

 

How much did the reroute cost and how'd you decide on which way to do it?
Asked about getting it done and guy wanted to move the resonator farther back and higher up,
wrap the pipe behind the transfer case
and delete or relocate the connection joint to improve flow and upgrade the collector that merges the 2 pipes to 1
$300+

your way seems easier
I hope the exhaust and tcase don't vibrate into eachother
which if you happen to have solid offroad mounts it probably won't

 

I did this same way, and managed to only re-use the stock crossover pipe with no added material. Just tucked it up higher like the above photo. No wrap on the pipe either, tcase and ujoint are fine.

 

it just sucks hearing quotes of $300
just want someone to slap a pipe on there quick for $100 and call it a day so I can bolt up an RCI trans skid smh

for $100 I'd have taken an uber and it'd be done already
but $300 - usually you expect to get a performance gaining part for that type of money, not cheap autozone tube thrown on

at the same time I get it. Pipe benders cost money

forgot to ask about cutting it short by the axle and putting a turndown tip while it's up in the air

 

I shit you not, a handful of shops in my area quoted 400-600 to do it. Literally laughed when they said that and went home and did it myself

 

I'm going to have a similar setup. What bumper are you going with?