DIY Replacing Driveshaft Center Bearing

I ordered a kit with the Ujoints and carrier from Amazon for just $75.

$77 Driveshaft Parts Driveshaft Support Bearing & Spicer U-Joints Set for Toyota Tacoma 2005-2015

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XPJ9KY9?ie=UTF8

I had a visibly broken U-joint and a vibration at highway speeds, surprisingly the vibration didn't go away after replacing all U-joints and the carrier. Ended up being the front wheel bearings.

 

Hah, kind of funny. Do you think you just noticed the bad bearings because you were hunting for vibrations after you replaced the shaft? I know I really feel every issue after I do some work on it.

 

Nothing really gave away that the bearings were bad, I had the wheels off and checked for play and grinding and it wasn't obvious. But after swapping all 3 U joints and the carrier bearing and having the tires checked and re-balanced with no improvement, it was the next logical step and luckily that was it. Amazing what a difference it made.

 

When I first read your post, I thought you meant you had a broken new u-joint, similar to the way I had an issue w/ one of my new ones. But now I see what you mean. Glad you got it sorted. I still have a lot of various vibrations and no idea where they come from. Joys of a very modified truck..

I do think the truck is a bit smoother after replacing the CB and ujoints. I've noticed I'm driving faster than I think I am, frequently, after this driveshaft job.

 

The original U-joint was broken, like I started hearing the telltale "thunk" when I would shift between drive and reverse. It was shifting a quarter inch inside the end caps, then I babied it 400 miles to where I could make the repair haha.

Good to hear that your truck got smoother with the driveshaft rebuild. That's good to do anyway, if mine had been any worse I could have been stranded off road.

 

I will add one very crucial thing in my opinion based on fact. Drive shaft angle should vary no more than 3°. if you have a tendency to be replacing this in an older vehicle the center support can tend to sag? By measuring the output flange of the transmission comparing it with the center bearing in addition to the rear flange on the driven member I even rear end none of these should exceed more than three degrees difference and none of them should be under they half degree difference. By matching the angle of the transmission output with the angle of the center bearing universal joint and then continuing on to match the angle of the center universal joint with the rear third member and keeping those within three degrees you will reduce the vibration created that tears up the center bearings that everybody complains about not lasting. This can be accomplished by either raising the center bearing lowering the center bearing changing the output angle of the transmission or changing the output angle of the rear end. The transmission it's possible to change that angle but not worth the trouble in my opinion the center bearing can be jacked up and bent in the place because after taking a hammering for some years they tend to get angled back down and out of alignment. The rear end can be shimmed or the leaf springs can be changed out? By correcting the driveline angles and keeping the angles parallel with the rear end to the center and in the center to the transmission within about a degree and no more of 3° drive line angle will dramatically increase the life of any center bearing.
Most of the time people just change out the center bearing and then blame the other companies for not making a proper product and this can be true I definitely recommend an oem product but even the toughest of center bearings will get tore up if you have driveline vibration that isn't corrected when you do the repair. I have found by jacking up the center support bearing and applying a little bit of heating getting it up high I can put spacers in and adjust the angle as well as shimming the rear end you can get it back into the stock factory engineered angles that were intended for the drive shaft to operate. Without parallel angles between u joints they will operate at a different speed because they are not constant velocity units and they will vibrate and it will tear up any bearing in any part. u joints included you can buy all the Band-Aids you want and fix anything you want but if you never correct the problem in the first place just simply addressing a symptom and that's why I'm none of your center support bearings last more than 30,000 miles because the problem is never corrected that created the problem in the first place which is proper angling of the drive shaft!

 

Had a shop press on IEDLS bearing for cheap.

Angle can be changed. I picked up pre cut metal tubes from a hardware store and longer bolts, with rough measurements taken to mimic previous angle I had with OE worn support and lift drop spacers from ARB if I recall correctly

so far nothing has broken but have not gone in to re measure angle. I hear there’s a phone app that can do that

there’s a new metal one I saw on Instagram that costs more but guy claims it’s only for 2wd

I did not know 2wd was different. I thought the only difference is addition of a front half prop shaft.

but then again a 6spd manual RA60F with transfer case probably extends longer than a RWD with 5spd auto among other possible differences on the truck including but not limited to short vs long bed etc

 

As far as I recall the difference in carrier bearings is a dust shield on the bearing itself for 4WD models. I dont think the 2WD has that, but never seen one in person. I do know from my research a few years ago there seemed to be lots of confusion around the two Spicer P/Ns. Some websites even had their pictures backwards.

 

This is accurate, but hard to read.

I had vibes and all my research said that a 3* shim would correct the issue. It did not. But then again, my angles have changed for a variety of reasons....winch dropped the front, extra leaf raised the rear, etc. It doesn't vibrate when I have a load, but annoyingly vibrates around 5 mph. I need to get one of those Harbor Freight angle meters (or whatever they are called) as the phone app is "meh." The buttons on the side of my phone prevented it from laying flat on either side, so I never felt like I was getting accurate measures (granted the angle would be the same on both sides, so should come out in the wash). Also, rounded edges of the phone prevented it from getting good readings on the trans and rear 3rd.

This is accurate (and easy to read).

 

Seems like that would put extra stress on the u-joints.

 

I am hoping someone can help me with my issue. I have an 07 Tacoma sport, 100k on it. It squeaks when I back up and I couldn't tell where the noise was coming from exactly so I duct tape my phone in various places and recording the sound. I am 99 percent sure it is coming from the middle C.B.

The truck doesn't shake, the only other thing that it does is jerk a little at red lights when I am setting still. It just jerks one time and it doesn't do it every time.

I took it in and the guy said he thought it was a center bearing, he said Toyota suggest that I replace everything. Does this sound right? I have to replace all of the U-joints, C.B.'s and driveshaft?

I apologize for the amount of questions. I know VERY little as you can probably tell. Thank you in advance for any help you may offer.

I do have a video of the sound but am unable to upload it.

 

100K miles?

Driveshaft is fine.

Replace 3 u-joints and the center bearing. Easy job.

I change my u-joints at 100K miles, whether they make noise or not.

 

yes, I just got to 100k this month. thanks for the advice. i really appreciate it.

 

$42 Spicer 211590-1X Center Bearing

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPFQRQ

$20 Spicer 5-213X U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOI8TQW?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

are these correct?

 

No. These are the ones you want.

Rear shaft u-joint -

$31 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

Spicer 5-1330-1X
Front shaft u-joint -

$33 Spicer 5-1310-1X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-1310-1X
Center Bearing - Spicer 5002007
Lock Nut - Toyota 90080-17083

 

thanks man! much appreciated...

 

hey i clicked both links and they were the same thing.

 

I just clicked on them, and they were different.

Funny thing, I didn't add the links. I guess TW did...

 

sounds like axle wrap. when's the last time you replaced rear shocks?

the squeak could be a bad wheel bearing

only reason i mention that is because i had the exact same issue as you, and like you i was positive it was the center bearing. Squeak in reverse and mild vibrations when moving forward....ended up being a wheel bearing.