Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Interesting that they did the pulls different and didn't run it out to redline on the S/C pull

 

I think the OV tune redline is higher. The magnuson has the same as stock?

 

Thanks for posting. A thought I had........I noticed that over time, maybe two tanks of gas, I seemed to feel more power from the turbocharger. Not sure if it was real or not. Maybe I floored it harder without worry or something. If you could re-dyno after some time, it would be interesting to me if the power curve changes.

 

Pretty sure you can get to 6200 or 6300 rpms on the Magnuson software but the dyno stops reading around 5700 on your dyno pull.

 

Yup we are scheduled for a repeat dyno on Nov 18th.

The dip at 3300 is no longer there. But there is a similar dip at 3700 rpm. Does this have anything to do with the ACIC unit being removed along with the OEM intake plenum and not being reinstalled?

 

The dip is there on every dyno I've seen so far, even the OP's - https://ibb.co/XLyLd2T

I did some full throttle pulls datalogging the Yotawerx S/C software this morning for @mZiggy progress is being made and the tune keeps getting better.

 

Awesome to hear! About to become a test mule for the manual trans version in about ten minutes. Just need to flash the truck.

 

That 4000-5000+ dip is absurd on the Magnuson. I don’t think that’s bad gas, that’s just what it really feels like there.
although the magnuson does hit the rev limiter at just above 6000rpm so the dyno should have read a bit farther.

magnuson really needs to get us the .v8 tune. It’s 7 months overdue now. The current tune sails you along to a 6 second 0-60 and then says “just kidding” and it feels like a flat spot in a poorly tuned carburetor right when you shift to second.

 

Ok regarding the dips… I chatted with @mZiggy and @tonered as well as the shop to get their perspective. That dip on the stock dyno may be due to the ACIC unit. There is nothing that can be done about it from a tuning standpoint. It’s a hardware issue. @a2lowvw is right that it’s there on all dynos. That unit is removed on the supercharger, (stays with the OEM plenum pic below), so that same dip technically shouldn’t be there.

We tried a few runs they all look the same. This is with level 5 smoothing. Should see it on level 0. Lots of squiggles above 3500 rpm. Which is why we think it’s bad gas. On my 4runner knock sensors don’t trigger under 3000 rpm… I’m going to assume it’s the same for all Toyotas which is why the curve looks smooth under that on the 3rd gen Tacoma. Above that RPM, knock sensors triggered, pulls timing for a bit, rpm’s climb, knock sensors triggered, pulls timing, rpm’s climb, repeat. No CEL’s but the shop kept this session short and sweet under red line for obvious safety reasons and probably not much gain. Going to run this tank down to empty refill with a 5 gal pail of 100 octane and attempt again as it’s an easy diagnosis. Now if it is indeed bad gas… Contrary to what we think, the Magnuson tune may already be somewhat aggressive for 92 octane.

 

We have some ideas that we may try for that acis dip, in the event that current values still trigger something else in the tune to happen, even without the acis being present. At minimum, it won't hurt to just see if those alternatives provide any benefit.

 

??? so you are running a non-magnuson SC tune being developed by Yotawerx / @mZiggy ? AT or MT ??? Also - thought OVTune stated he had a patch to turn off the ACI in the ECU software ? Maynot affect tuning but would stop the DTC code present when ACI is not functioning. ???

 

yes, I have been working with @mZiggy / Yotawerx on their tune development. My truck is an at but he has a mt truck that is going to start testing the tune also.

 

Did you log knock and or ignition timing? Should be easy to tell what’s going on rather than suspect bad gas.

Why does removing the ACIC cause that dip. I know why that dips there on an NA motor but intake runner length shouldn’t matter with FI. Is there something else happening?

 

Agree. Data logging would tell us exactly what’s going on. Unfortunately this was a quick pull post supercharger install and I didn’t bring the laptop with me. Why? The truck runs fine. AFR’s and boost are solid. Nothing to make me think I would run into any issues on the dyno. Had I not dyno’d the truck, I would think it runs and makes power as expected. Check out the vid i posted in my stories on Instagram while on the dyno doing the 4th gear pull from 40-120 mph. Everything looks smooth. AFR, boost, power delivery. Only thing wonky is the chart. Next run on the 18th we can try data log with 100 octane in the tank.

Regarding the ACIC unit. Just to clarify, it is thought to possibly cause the power sucking dip, (100+ hp on my prior dyno), at 3500 rpm on stock trucks and trucks with OV Tune 2.0. It is removed with installation of the supercharger so it technically should be gone.

 

The Toyota stock tune uses a formula or "algorithm" to make changes and with Toyota's ACIS system, it is either fully open or fully closed. So when you attempt to tune it at much higher or much lower rpm with VFtuner, the Toyota "algorithm" will adjust it anyway. The dip will be there no matter where you tune the ACIS to open, just at a different rpm within Toyota's algorithm. I have tried very low and very high rpm's, but it will still fall into the range of 2000-3000 rpm.
So even with FI, I would think the Toyota stock logic will override it.

 

Have you guys tried a block off plate and disconnecting the unit entirely? Then adjusting the tune? Obviously if the ACIS unit is still attached and plugged in it won’t matter what you do to the tuning as it’s a hardware issue.

 

The engine was made to run with this ACIS system. At high rpm, it is open. At low rpm it is closed. I would think that having it open or closed all the time would hurt performance and efficiency. Maybe with a FI system (turbo or SC), there may be a way to eliminate or optimize the function better.

 

there is definitely a way to eliminate it on FI. The supercharger deletes it completely.

 

So… No you haven’t tried to remove it or unplug it? Then attempt to tune without it?