Over torqued oil canister

For everyone having issues with theirs, are you changing your oil hot or cold?

I did my own first change and the housing broke loose while undoing the housing drain plug so it wasn't super tight from the factory; pan was also cold. We'll see how the next one goes.

Don't want to get into thermo expansion of different types of plastics discussion but trying to see if it could be a factor in difficult removal when hot vs cold. Obviously when the last person smashes it on with a impact, all bets are off.

 

When I have done oil changes, I've driven the vehicle to the Auto Hobby Shop on Dover AFB (15 mins engine run time) or any other facility close to my duty station...so the oil was hot but not extremely hot.

I've understood it that warm oil drains better than cold.

Ed

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Great observation. Last time it was “warmed up” but not hot.

 

I don't have a real issue. I do all my oil changes cold.

$52 0W20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W20 oil flows well enough even when cold.

Someone on this board mentioned Toyota changed from aluminum to plastic filter caps because of galling issues between the aluminum cap and aluminum housing. Put a lot of oil on the threads if you switch to an aluminum cap.

 

I did my first oil change last February at just before 5000 miles. Mine wasn't hard to get off. I did drive to the auto zone like a half mile away for something then put the truck up on ramps and went at it.
Since I had the Truck to the dealership for the 10,000 mile service so I will see in a month or so how tight they made it. I have this on the shelf in case there are any problems and I break the plastic.


Oil on the threads is probably a good idea with the aluminum one.

 

Don't over think it.

1. Release the metal locking clasp on the filter canister.
2. Use the removal tool to break the seal of the o-ring and stop.
3. Continue onward with the oil change process ...

You may need to get leverage with a longer ratchet. If it still doesn't budge and you're afraid of cracking the plastic canister, buy the aluminum Lexus canister on Amazon. Then go to town with leverage on the plastic one.

 

Congratulations folks.

We have now beaten this dead unicorn so badly that people are developing anxiety contemplating their oil changes.

Again, I direct your attention to all of the other forums of vehicles that utilize this filter set up and challenge you to find this level of angst over oil changes.

 

Changed my oil last week and had to use the cheater bar. Can't believe how tight the dealership torqued it. I replaced it with an aluminum one just because of the slight chance something could go horribly wrong. If you replace always keep the plastic one for backup. Doesn't make sense as to why Toyota would make an OEM aluminum housing but won't install it from the factory. Penny pinching I guess. This is what I ordered:

$22 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

AmazonSmile: Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly : Automotive

 

The entire problem is caused by over tightening the housing, especially if using some inaccurate piece of shit torque wrench. When the stop flange makes contact with the engine, stop turning the housing. That's it. Period.

Or keep doing the same stupid shit over and over and wonder why the housing is way too tight.

 

Ideally it's better to drain the oil when it's warm...even a thin 0w oil drains better when warm...and never-mind torque wrenches or impact tool...just get a feel by hand tight...and ofcourse avoid fast lube shops...stealership too...

 

Exactly. Physics, people.

The Oring seals the housing. Torquing it to a bazillion foot pounds or .0006 foot pounds has no effect on the degree of seal that Oring provides.

So, don't apply any torque once it's on.

The aftermarket metal filter housing is nothing more than an equipment solution to an operator error.

If someone is capable of Fing up the process with a plastic part, they are probably just as likely to F it up with a metal part.

 

That's a pretty good idea honestly. Like you I changed the oil in my truck myself around 4500 miles and then let the dealer do it at 10K. We'll see how tight it is when I hit 15K... Might just have to keep one around the garage if I need it. Our Camry takes the same housing as well so I don't think it would go to waste.

 

Doing it like you said is exactly like I did it. I didn't even use a torque wrench. you can see and feel it is reached the correct point if you are careful and pay attention. I managed for figure it out on the first try. I have the older version of the motiveX cap wrench and used the 27mm socket on a long 1/2" ratchet to remove it.
My only reason to have the metal one on hand is just in case. When it goes to the dealer for toyota care I don't have the same control as I do when I do the work either but I want them to have the service on record and I paid for that in the price of the truck. I'm pretty confident in my work I been changing oil since I had a driver's licence at 17, I don't know that about an entry level tech at the dealership that might do the work. I don't care if it sits on my shelf for 10 years and I don't need it, Murphy's law is that if I did have it on hand I'd need it. in my case I have only one Vehicle so if the dealer made it too tight and I somehow break it I'd have to call a ride to go get a new one, not convenient.

 

Make perfect sense if you know that someone else is going to change your oil. The mostly likely candidate to fuck it up is the former burger flipper at your local Toyota dealership.

"If you try to make it idiot proof, they'll just make a better idiot"

 

If I get to 25,000 miles without the dealership over tightening it at the 20,000 mile oil change I'm sure I'll be just fine from then on.

 

Cold

 

Very good idea IMO. I also picked up an aluminum OEM oil filter cap assy and a spare OEM filter. They are sitting on the parts shelf in ziploc bags just in case "Murphy" pays me another visit.