Please Help me I’m desperate

I don't know the full context of the thread, but if it boils down to the joining of wires, consider these things called "Solder Sleeves":

$9 Kuject Heat Shrink Solder Seal Wire Connectors Kit 120PCS, Waterproof Butt Connector Heat Shrink Electrical Terminals, Insulated Solderless Wiring Splice Connectors for Marine Automotive Boat Truck

https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B073RMRCC3/
You just need a good heat-gun

 

You can disagree all you want. The harness and damage done will dictate the repair required. Anyone can solder, but how many of you can do it right? Do you even know what solder wicking is and how to avoid it? come on... expect a rookie to understand that from u-tube

 

Parts not being made yet is 100%spot on for new production .

With other manufactures ( not vehicles) I have been lucky to get parts pulled off the production line.

Have you looked back in time maybe the harness from a 2019 will work .

Have you entered that Part number at your favorite online Toyota Parts vendor??

 

Soldering is super easy my friend - anyone can do it with going through one of many thorough tutorials.

I'm not sure why you're fixated on soldering when it's not even a practical repair as I mentioned after the pic of the damaged wires was posted and you suggesting OP use 13+ butt joint connectors in the A-pillar points out your lack of experience.

 

Solder wick is used to remove solder from a joint or pc board connection. You'd used rosin core 60/40 solder for these butt connectors we had. I did all sorts of work on home, car audio/video, plus service medical, and commercial electronic equipment for our company.

 

Soldering is basically easy once you've done it. Doing intricate solder work imo, is an art better left for the experienced.

 

Super easy yes it is, and anyone can do it, But how many do it right? been doing it for 25 years in aviation, I also repair, replace and upgrade wire harnesses. I'm actually against using solder in this situation. i would rerun every wire there, but i doubt the OP has the tooling nor the knowledge for that. For this situation he should use the enviromental splice i linked becuase they are very small and keep moisture out, limiting corrosion. I dont really care which way the OP does it. I know exactly how i would do it had it been mine.

 

Cold solder joints done by others was my biggest beef.

 

Yes a solder joint can be done in this case and many others, and probably last the life of the vehicle. Solder joints done on wiring in a harness aren’t seeing the same strain and vibrations that PCB’s see. Additionally, the soldering done on PCB’s is done properly and by a professional or robot. Even then I’ve seen cracked solder on PCB’s after many years of use in a vehicle.

Open barrel non-insulated crimps are what is used in original manufacture of wiring harnesses like this. When done properly they are as compact as a properly done solder joint but don’t suffer from the same stiffness or brittleness in the joint.

Again, solder joints are fine, butt connectors are fine, other methods are also fine. Just do it right and you’re good.

It does suck when you have an electrical problem and need to find random splices that were done inside the harness somewhere though. If I need to fix a problem with a repair, I would take a thick bundle of butt connectors I can see over a shitty splice hidden inside the loom any day.

Jeff

 

This is what I am referring to for splicing method, I don’t typically grab the insulation but it can be helpful for short lengths of non-twisted stranded wire to prevent slippage.





Jeff

 

That is defiantly one way to do it, AC43 and IPC620 both allow it. I like the smaller sealed type splices. like in this link. these types are good for 14 to 24 Awg. Granted its a car, not a aircraft.


https://www.newark.com/raychem-te-c...C-GUSA-GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Top-Products

 

Yeah, they’re definitely a bit overkill in this application, considering the way all other connections are made, but yeah, they’re quality stuff.

Jeff

 

Funny, I find most people who think solder is better than proper crimps for this application to be too lazy and cheap to have the proper tools for a job. Solder and soldering crimp connections are red flags for poor work. Solder also has lower conductivity than the copper wire, so a perfectly soldered splice is still inferior to a proper crimp.

Of course, my cheap crimper still cost me $150 used and I'm willing to pay $2 plus for a single butt connector. As most people get a $10 crimper and cheap aluminum connectors, it is not surprising that they get poor results.

 

LOL, i understand and agree. some of my AMP and DMC crimpers, for one damn contact can be $1000. I always over kill everything using the right tools, quality parts. Im always thinking, product improvment. If im doing a repair it should be better than OEM when im done with it.

 

AMP Picabonds & even 3M Scotchlocks will last pretty much forever.

 

Didn’t get any info from OP yet, but I can confirm that this harness is only sold separately up to 2019. 2020-2022 models require ordering the headliner assembly to get the wiring harness.

In short, 82171-04870 is not a service part number and will never be available separately unless Toyota adds/changes that at a later date.

Jeff

 

OP, you might be in luck if we can ID the part that goes towards the passenger side sail panel.


It can be "assembled"...

 

I've seen far more problems come from hackery with t-splices and connectors.

Once someone has the correct tools and technique which isn't hard to come by in this age of information with dozens of videos to evaluate against another to see how things are best done, it's super straightforward.

Don't get me wrong - there's a time and a place to have various connectors - I wouldn't hardwire my switchpros even though they only warranty it simply because I want my entire battery / electronics setup to unplug and be worked on on a bench. Techniques that work are all that are needed in every case and so far I think we're all in agreement rerunning wires is superior to a quicker fix.

OP might have an easier time swapping in a harness imo.

Interesting - working in pro audio setups in my old days I could almost always track down electrical issues to connectors - they were 90% of weak points in what I ended up repairing and like being able to check for continuity on one long run rather than a bunch of connectors.

 

Junior Punks #juniorpunksnft

 

Correct, additionally crimp connectors are required for aviation, the reason is that solder joint will create a hard point that can cause a stress crack especially with vibration in a vehicle / plane. So the butt connectors are a correct approach to the repair. I do understand that a nicely soldered joint with some heat shrink is much more visibly pleasing.