MARYLAND TACOMAS

Yea, see, I am glad I am not the only one that sees such an increase. Now, the really freaky part is, I am pretty sure I measured the temps too one day. I think I calculate a 4 degree (above ambient temp) increase for every 1 psi! That's insane! Well, the chalk line questions are me digressing to an insane OCD level. I mean, I only rotate them every 5k miles unlike the standard 3k mile point everyone else swears by. So yea, OCD, but also LAZY.

No, none of us should not have to reprogram our TPMS. That is unless you do a 5 tire rotation. Because the "full size" spare isn't so equipped, they decided to leave the ability to store 5 out of the ECU.

 

Bla Bla Bla....... 285/75 that's when the Panties start droppin'

 

Get your tires filled with “pure” nitrogen. For the win.

 

Damn Eric, were they OEM? I bought off ebay too but got OEM. Knock on wood, no problems so far. Do you know what brand they are? I could probably use my Autel device to see if the batts are shot. If they are built like most though, and especially OEM, they aren't (supposed to be) replaceable. I watched a video of a guy that did it. I suppose that's cool to save 50 or so bucks but with my luck it would fall apart and I'd have a bunch of TPMS guts including the batt floating around in there.

 

I use helium because it helps improve MPGs with less overall weight for the engine. You can thank me now.

 

I just think they don’t play well. They used to work… kinda. Usually it would take 10-15 min during a drive before they would show pressure. The don’t show the low pressure warning but will show it when that part of the signal falls off. Sometimes during long drives that will happen.
Not OEM, just a knock of brand that was available when I was being cheap

 

Well, we could still try. They have to be 315Mhz to have worked originally so I think that's all I need to program in. I bet it's the batts. And because our ECU programming for the TPMS is a simple written code, I believe if one is bad all you get on the dash is no TPMS registered symbol for all 4 tires. I believe this because I attempted to program 5 in numerous times and the ECU doesn't like that. If it was a smarter written code, even if there was no slot for 5, it should have the logic to pick the 4 from my device by the LF, RF, RR, LR locations, and just not try the spare. For another 15 bucks I bet they could have added the spare TPMS and made the code work. Of course, then we would all have to pay 15 dollars more for our trucks.

Here's some insight too for the guys that are gonna chime in. Like you, I started driving long before any of this techno babble bullshit. To the me 35 years ago this is all way beyond my comprehension. But like all tech, it has a place. It came in handy once for me in a rental. Had it not had a TPMS system onboard, we would have been stranded on an unfamiliar stretch of highway waiting for the rental companies service. Instead, we made our way (barely) to a filling station, got some air for free, then drove to a satellite office on the way to our destination where they simply swapped out the entire thing with one from another car like it. Said it was the least they could do for our troubles.

Can I check my tire(s) pressure manually myself each time I get behind the wheel? Sure. Is it worth the expense to not have to? For me, yes. My time is the most valuable thing I have. Since the CFO owns it, most of what I am allowed is on a "as needed basis" and I have to lease it.

 

Costco fills with nitrogen BTW, in case anyone is wondering. I tried buying some for my compressor but couldn't find it locally.

 

Might have to give that a try then. I have my old wheels and tires. I’ve been tempted to grab some cheap valve stems and swap out the put the oems in the current set up.

Again, I’m lazy lol and this is what I get for being cheap. Things “almost” work they way they should. does the tool you use reset them for the truck to read the originals again?

 

I question the effort of doing a chalk test. Radials look the same under a wide range of pressures. I almost doubt you could get a center bulge from too much pressure.

 

Yes, the normal min-max tire pressure, at road temperature’s is fairly wide. The chalk test gets the pressure within a normal band for the specific tire and specific weight distribution of the vehicle.

 

I feel ya Eric. I've been burned so many times trying to be frugal. Not that I don't try mind you. It just never goes my way. If places didn't want so much to swap them out then no big deal but........shit that time at the dealer they tried to stick me for some stupid over $150. amount to reprogram them during a rotation and couldn't. So I said fuk it and bought a tool that does it and then some. Yes, the way mine works is, you go from tire to tire in a specific order (as prompted) and register each one, then using a OBD cable write the data to the ECU. Then drive the truck for 10 min above 15 mph (per the instructions) and voila'. I barely got to the mid point between me and Ady Rd. What's weird about the system is that if I am sitting in my driveway and fill (and I suspect any of us, even though I am special) them it registers in the dash display in less than a minute. No driving required. So that last step must be some sort of trigger to get them fully registered into the ECU.



Also, us older guys know that a couple good wacks with a dead blow hammer on a tire will tweak the pressure up a bit. I fill, wait, hit, wait, fill as needed. Like I said, OCD.

 

Me too Rob, me too… my wife constantly makes fun of me. There are some things I just don’t want to pay full price for.

I’ll have to make a trip up there if I get a new set or swap them out.

 

Evening all ! Such a nice day outside, glad that we got a break before this temps dropped and the rain started.


I used the 4unner to pull the trailer for another 1/2 cord of oak yesterday, When I got into my yard to backup to the wood rack, I spun a bit in the soft ground. No big deal, it was damp so I pulled the t-case into 4H and still only spun a back tire. Hmmmm, I put it into 4L and hit the e-locker button and no go- e-locker light flashed and the dash display wasn't showing anything being engaged. I put it back into 2wd and hit the '4WD' button on the side of the shifter and got AWD to light up on the display and got out of the yard.

Since I had AWD working and displaying on the dash, I knew that the front actuator and the ADD system was functioning, but no signal for the center diff to lock when in 4wd Hi/Low. A bit of trouble shooting w/ a paper clip at the t-case sensors harness connections showed that the 4wd High sensor was bad. So odd that everything worked fine while in Colorado but somehow took a dump on me over the past 3 months. This isn't going to be the most fun ever, both X-members need to drop in order to lower ( tilt ) the engine & tranny enough to get a socket onto the darn sensor. The sensor is about $65.

 

You know the place, you're always welcome

 

And if you get in trouble Rob knows all the mall cops.

 

Anyone need the cup holder recess liners? I have an unused set for a 3rd gen, black with red accents.

Similar to this.

$19 CupHolderHero fits Toyota Tacoma Accessories 2016-2023 Premium Custom Interior Non-Slip Anti Dust Cup Holder Inserts, Center Console Liner Mats, Door Pocket Liners 19pc Set (Double Cab) (Red Trim)

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Cente...61&sprefix=tacoma+a,aps,174&sr=8-2-spons&th=1

 

That's not true. I don't know them all, yet.

 

You've been quiet lately...