Frame Protection... Alternatives to Fluid Film

Seems to me the problem with any of the "spray can" solutions is, generally, you can only get the outside of the frame. In salty areas, it is what gets up inside the boxed sections that seem to be the biggest problem.

 

Most of my frame isn't boxed. The parts that are boxed have lots of holes and open ends, allowing me to spray the rubberized stuff in. I get a good coating in these areas. It does take a little time and patience though. I've lived in states with heavily salted roads and done this to all of my vehicles. Granted, I have not driven a vehicle past 200k... Anyway, thats my 2cents. I guess you gotta think about how long you want the vehicle to last. My vehicles do get minor rust by the end of their life, but nothing like vehicles that are untreated.

 

when i lived in the rust belt we used used motor oil worked great we would use a 2 gal pump sprayer and we never had any rust form

 

S2S Automotive is the best one I have used, I put it on a few years ago and its still there working. You can get it off their website they don't sell it in many stores. buys2s.com. Not made from nasty wool and it goes on beautifully, I think it is used by the NAVY and has a Mil spec and NSN number.

 

I'd be more impressed if they had application directions and coverage estimates on the site.

 

It took 3 cans to do a complete job, 1/2 Gallon (2 Litre). The non shopping website states 150 sq. feet per gallon. It stays wet, and lubricated. All of the nuts and bolts under the truck are rust free and lubricated. When I took it in for an oil changed they wanted to know what I used because it was easy for them to work on and they said no rust anywhere. Keep it off the muffler and the brakes, everything else can be sprayed including electrical, fuse panels and circuit boards, it is a dielectric.

 

^

 

Anyone used Noxudol? It looks promising. About to get a new whip, and trying to figure out what I'm going to use on it.

https://www.noxudolusa.com/rust-proofing-car/

 

I've been using FF. I live in Southern Maryland and our winters are a bit milder compared to the more northern states but they do use salt on the roads here. Last year, the entire month of January was snowy and salty. With that being said, my dads 97 Tacoma's frame was never treated with anything. It looks hideous from the outside but you can look inside and put your finger through and it is fine. Doing a hammer test, the frame is still solid. The only part that isn't solid anymore is the rear where the frame holds the bumper. He ran a powerwashing business out of it too which I think is mostly to blame for the rear part of the frame being bad. That truck has just shy of 400,000 miles on it. We also have a 96 T100 (made in Japan) we use for work daily, and there is rust in a lot of places. The differential was the first thing to rust through and leak. Frame is still doing fine. Not treated.

After researching these Tacomas before buying my first last year, seeing some of the horror stories, I reluctantly bought a 2004 prerunner (from Baltimore) with rust in the rear of the frame and the spare carrier cross member was nothing but scale. I took the truck home, treated it with a wire brush, Corroseal, Rustoleum and POR15, then coated it with FF. A year later, it looked the exact same as when I applied the FF, I would occasionally rub my finger on it to see where it may have worn off, which was usually near the wheels, I would just respray those areas. Truck is no longer with me after being totalled by a tree in a tornado in September....

So I guess my thing is, I spent an awful lot of time worrying about rust, still do on my 2015, but at the end of the day, my dads trucks are still alive after 26 years and my first gen was killed by a tree after 17 years. Not rust. I would search the internet and on here seeing all these scary photos and get myself all worked up and constantly check over my 2015's frame and worry when I see the little bit of rust here and there. I'm sure as long as you treat the frame with something, and check it and reapply when needed, you're doing more than enough to keep the truck going for many years.

 

Woolwax is what I use. It's basically FF but slightly thicker and many people advise it smells much better (I didn't think it smelled bad). The beauty is it resists washing off better than FF but can still be washed away if you really wanted.

 

We appreciate all the support we get from Tacoma members. Just a reminder that when you use the promo code "tacoma" at checkout you will get the tacoma discount, free shipping, and no sales tax outside of MA. Please don't hesitate to contact us if we can provide any additional information.
https://www.woolwaxusa.com/

 

Well then, I might have to pick up a few cans of that and try it out. I went to my local auto zone today and they had FF on sale buy 1 get one half off. Is woolwax compatible if I use it over fluid film?

 

I've used all three on my Tacomas' internal boxed section of the frame, Woolwax, Fluid Film, and cosmoline products, and during this past summer when we had about a week of 95 plus degree days I had a mixture of white gray creamy goo on the pavement below each of the frame rails. So, I guess, it's in all the crevasses and seams. I did a respray of the internal box section this October with Woolwax.

 

Yes. Woolwax® is compatible with any other lanolin/woolgrease products. We have people all the time that switch to Woolwax® frpom Fluid Film and there are no known issues. Please be sure to use the promo code "tacoma" at checkout
https://www.woolwaxusa.com/Woolwax®...k-You-choose-4-can-6-can-or-12-can-_p_33.html

 

5 cans for 44 bucks. Can't beat that.

 

There is a two-foot extension that sprays 360 degrees that fits' on the spray cans. I've been able to use it on all spray cans that contain rust preventatives.

 

Yea I ordered my extension tube off ebay and it works pretty good. It is about 2 feet long. has about 4 holes pointed in every direction and makes getting inside enclosed parts a lot easier

 

We are in the process of manufacturing a 36" (3 ft) extension for the aerosol cans. This should be ready to ship in about 2 weeks or less.

 

Are those available to order now or do we have to wait until they become available? Is there a certain temperature I have to use this stuff in?

 

We don't have them available yet. But they are in assembly now. We need another (2) weeks or so to build enough of them to make them available for sale. But the 24" are always available.

How cold is "too cold" to apply Woolwax® ?
Do it as early in the season as possible. September/October is ideal. It should be at least in the 50's for good results. We have mobile Undercoaters that are still spraying in the 30's, but it takes some work to keep the Woolwax® from thickening. One trick is to heat up a pot of water and let the quart bottles full of Woolwax® float around in it. As the one you are using gets to thick, you can swap it out and put it in the water to warm up. Even in a heated garage you have that ice cold air coming from the compressor to chill and thicken the Woolwax® in the bottle. The lower temperatures are a challenge, but it can be done. To get the Woolwax® to spray through the extension wands on the Pro Gun, you may need to boost up the psi to 110-125 psi.

https://www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html