2016 Tacoma in limp mode, FIXED!

I think the problem is the transmission shifting in and out of gears at high rpms or gear changing. With the tacoma transmission when im using cruise control, it will gear down over a small hill and once your over it, it wont shift out to a higher gear once you go over. It is holding the lower gear longer than it needs to switch over the higher gear. I need to get the tsb for transmission flash done for my truck but haven't and will be taking it in soon.

 

I have the same exact problem! Really laggy down low. Slight rattle when I blip my throttle or when around 3500 and goes away. And near redline it rattles. I had a cylinder 6 misfire and truck went into limp mode. Going to order the new manifold 2 gaskets and change out my spark plugs. Did the new manifold come with the new actuator?

 

I am having this issue with my truck. When I get on the freeway and get up to speed the truck goes into limp mod with the engine light turns on. Its doesn't do it all the time but when it does it sucks. I have to pull over and clear the code P0303 with my Ultra gauge. Then restart the truck and get going back up to speed. Then its fine for a week or so. I only have 102,000 miles on my truck.

The dealer (Hamer Toyota) where I bought the truck told me I needed the motor pulled and rebuilt with heads and valve job. $9500.00

I have replaced the plugs and all the coils and did a complete fuel clean.

Now that I just read this I am gonna pull off the manifold and check the ACIS!

Thanks,

 

Please post back and update eith results/ findings . Would be a great shared knowledge.

 

Just had this exact same thing happen to me. 2017/49k miles Kept throwing p0303/05 and going into limp mode at higher RPMs/freeway speeds. Been trying to figure this out since September, thought it was related to the fuel pump recall so had that done, didn't fix it, changed all the plugs and the coil pack still misfiring. Decided to take it to the dealer and they found the exact same thing both pieces broke internally. Sucks you have to replace the entire manifold

 

My truck previously registered three codes; PO352 Ignition coil B Primary Control Circuit Open, PO354 Ignition coil D Primary Control Circuit Open
and PO356 Ignition coil F Primary Control Circuit Open about 2 months ago. Took it in to the dealer and they replaced all three driver's side ignition coils.

It then registered a P0303 code a week ago. Running like crap after it gets warmed up, CEL light is on and occasionally flashes again, TRAC light Off returned too.

Took it to the dealer last Monday morning and they’re going to get the shop manager involved with it. I asked for a loaner and they gave me a Corolla. At least I have wheels until I get it back. I had also gave them this information in this thread about the actuator shaft snapping off in the plenum.

Notified by the the dealer yesterday that it was indeed the actuator shaft snapping off in the intake plenum. They've ordered the new intake with the plenum door; thank gawd I purchased the extended warranty because it's a $1,300.00 repair according to them.

This Tacoma board is invaluable to all of us, and I thank the OP of the referenced thread lstrople for finding this issue and posting about it.

So I now have 19k miles on my 2018. I have an extended Warranty but I’m getting disgusted with my truck and the undependability that is developing with it. I should’ve waited to accessorize it, so much money spent on it regarding that. Just depressing. I am sort of starting to entertain the idea of possibly selling/trading it in for something else. I just am saddened by this whole problem with my truck. First, the fuel pump recall that I had to have my truck towed in to repair, and now this plenum door issue. What's next?

 

@willtill, sorry to hear about the experience you had! I am happy that you have found the issue. I will be honest, my taco has had a whole bunch of issues from the get-go. The most expensive thing I have fixed to date has been replacing the entire AC system. The AC pump failed at 43K and the dealer would not fix it. Needless to say, it was close to 5k to fix all said and done. Another huge pain I have had is that the stock JBL speakers blow out really easily. The nominal wattage of the JBL system is too high IMO, the low-quality speakers burn up lol. If I was to buy something instead of the taco originally, I would have gotten something with more HP. I think the Camry 3.5 v6 is not adequate for what the truck is advertised to do (towing, offroading, being a truck...). I'm sure a lot of people will disagree with my thoughts but I think Toyota tends to bank on their past success in the reliability department.

 

Wow, three different Tacomas with the same exact issue and failure point.

 

Life is too short for this shit. Get the fuck rid of it and thank God you’ll get a good buck for it. Me? I’d look for a Corolla but imo just move along. Enough, already. Good luck

 

It looks like that actuator door is maybe contacting something in the plenum with force, causing a hard stop and breaking bits of it off. Look at the picture below of a fellow member's post here, above his right thumb:

 

There is a lot more people with the same problem and everyone needs to send a report to Toyota if they have this problem

 

The actuator is made to open when the rpm are higher to give the engine more air. At idle it closes and restricts the air flow. Mine was giving the #3 misfire code. I checked the coils and replaced the sparkplug before it wouldn't start or it would eventually start but run rough. Less than a week from when I first started having the problem. Dealer had found #1 cylinder intake valve wasn't holding. They suggested a engine replacement. I took it to another mechanic and before he did anything to it I stumbled across this post. He checked it out and it was broken and the metal spacer had fallen into #1 cylinder intake valve holding it open. They pulled it out and put everything back together with the actuator without the flap. I have driven 5000 miles and everything is running fine. No codes, no limp mode, and can't tell any difference on fuel mileage.

 

So the door was not reinstalled and you notice no difference in power either? This is interesting. If it happens again to me when my truck is no longer covered by extended warranty, I think I will do the same.

 

Wouldn’t you be running lean on low rpm’s then ? Any engine knock or decrease in performance ?

 

Generally speaking, it is an amplifier that has too LOW of a wattage that blows speakers. When you turn up the volume really high, it exceeds the amp's rated output which causes "clipping" of the signal (think sine wave with the top just a flat horizontal line instead of a nice up-n-down curve) and this forces the speaker magnet to slam full out and then back in which eventually tears the coil from the cone material. I put in a 1000W amp under the seat right after I got my truck and quality Focal speakers to avoid this kind of mess.

 

People need to make sure they file a report with toyota when they find this problem. Only way they will get a recall started on it.

 

I know all of you experiencing this issue are Stock NA. Interestingly when I installed my SC the noted assembly (in total) was removed and the electrical connection is simply taped over and left unconnected. No codes and no issues - yes it is now SC but if that simple little piece of plastic was so vital the engine would be throwing codes left and right. Seems like the simple fix, which one or more poster has done, is to remove the broken part and forget about it. Maybe a test for the next one to have this issue. For sure Toyota should have made it strong enough to hold up to its task - but apparently they again failed. GL and sorry for the issues.

 

Do you have a link where we would report this particular problem with the ACIS failing; to Toyota? Because I definitely will.

I also would like to know how to R&R that Plenum assembly myself, in the future, after the extended warranty expires...

 

You will find the R&R in the attached PDF - it is the download for the Magnuson SC installation. Very detailed and not difficult. Be aware there are 5 bolts (not six as the instructions say - hopefully Magnuson corrected this in newer instructions) and 2 nuts. GL.

 

https://support.toyota.com/s/questi...5EFVZ*MTY0NDc5OTE5OC4zNS4xLjE2NDQ3OTkyMjUuMzM.
My case number is 211217002409