1GR-FE rebuild

Tonight I was working on a side project for Frankenstein's Monster. I will be installing an electric fan. The fan is a 850 watt brushless fan from an '18 Camaro. I cut out the fan keeping the reinforcing ring around the blade. I mocked it up in the fan shroud. I mounted it by some 25mm long flanged button head cap screws, (needed to be about 22-23mm to keep from bottoming out, I just drilled a little deeper, I don't recommend if you follow suit) after mounted I notched the shroud wire the wires to have a clean look. Then drilled two small holes so I can use the Christmas tree clip that was on the connector to keep it secured.



I added one touch up after the pictures. I put felt tape over the gray foam and the bottom edge. The gray seal is foam window insulation. It stuck to the radiator when I removed it, so this will keep it from sticking again.

 

Looks good but how are you planning on controlling it? I believe those need a PWM signal on the control wire to work.

 

That turned out very nicely.

 

I have a pwm fan controller I got off ebay a while ago when I had a different electric fan set up.
I was not able to get everything to operate to my liking, so I went back to the fan clutch. The after market fan clutch I had locked up 80% of the time it FUCKING drove me nuts!! Now here I am revisiting the electric fan after a little more research. I'm hoping this controller will work. I have a dedicated temp sensor for it mounted in the heater hose on the supply side. The fan will be direct wired to the battery with a high amp relay that I acquired through work. "thank you BMW for make a nice 125amp relay" well their supplier anyways.
So will a little more time and patients this go around my cooling will be top-notch. I do have a back up plan if need be. I will run the Lingfelter controller, their price went up to $200 now.

The controller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143561646769?

 

I am curious to see how this iteration works.

 

As well I, sir.
I like the feature of adding up 20% range of over temp. When this setting is activated I will reduce the max speed by up to 20% and only use it if the engine temp starts to climb over the max temp setting.

 

I have mine on a thermo-switch alone. It it either full on, or off. One day, when I quit working on other projects (2TR turbo manifolds) I would like to get it on a PWM setup.

 

Wondering if the cam gears that retard the exhaust valves by 3 degrees would reduce/eliminate the chance of cat converter pieces/dust getting pulled back into the combustion chamber as happened here?

 

I almost think they would increase this risk.... They hold exhaust open a bit later. Which is why they aren't for turbo ( positive pressure exhaust) systems

 

Derale makes a fairly nice pwm but nobody here besides myself seems to want to try them.

 

I'll check it out. Thanks for the tip.

 

I had their controller and dual fan set up. I was not a fan. I think most of it was the fans and the narrow window that the fans would run. I.E. 15 degrees for set temp.

 

I have the 3 degree gears installed. maybe that is why.

If your interested in a Derale set up pm me.

 

I'm working on an E-fan setup myself. I'm using a flex-a-lite 16" fan and a their controller but was also looking at these. https://www.autocoolguy.com/

 

I ran a Derale controller and e-fan on my 5.0L Ranger conversion. They worked really well.

I ended up switched to a flex fan and custom shroud. I didn't have the room i needed for a good shroud with the e-fan. The flex fan worked really well. I wish there was room for a shroud with the e-fan. On well, I sold that truck, so it's just memories....

However, I still have the e-fan and controller if anyone is interested. I should create a for sale post...

 

I going to go back and revisit the Pistons and their putting I was talking about. I have looked at the bottom of the cylinders heads, now that I have them back. I see that the putting is on the pass bank, cylinders 1 and 3.
Maybe it is timing. @JustDSM any input?

 

It certainly looks like detonation pitting to me.

Did you find a lot of carbon build up on top of/around it or was it freshly pitted looking when you first pulled everything?

I ask because I know you don't have the ability (or did you ever pick up a MPVI2?) to log. I'm confident in the tune you're running as most folks with the 2.8-2.7's run a very similar calibration. It's been one of my solid performers now for quite some time. I just recently had a guy do a dyno test with it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hp-tuners-for-2005-2015.600793/page-375#post-26010933

&

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hp-tuners-for-2005-2015.600793/page-375#post-26011068

 

@JustDSM I did not notice the pitting until I cleaned the carbon build up off the pistons. There was a good amount of carbon build up on all cylinders. I will say that my attention was more towards bearings to find a source of metal in the oil. I have picked up a MVPI2+ with all the other parts for the engine. After break-in I will send you some logs to see how it looks. There should be more pics of the head off in earlier posts.