The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

I don't see how that improves things. The same heat (power) is going to be pulled through the plastic OEM plugs and wiring, you're adding two additional points of resistance in the circuit...

You're doing a lot of dancing around to try to solve the problem you're creating for yourself. For $115 the headlight services harness would be really hard to beat as a DIY job unless you already had most of the materials on hand.

 

I'd try to find something that is at least 14 AWG, but 12 AWG will be better. The lower the AWG, the lower the resistance, which reduces voltage drop and increases bulb performance. As previously pointed out, those ceramic jumpers are not going to be helpful, as the 100w draw is going to take a significant voltage drop causing output loss and may not be better than a stock bulb.

 

With all due respect, all you will do with those is shift where you melt the harness or connectors - maybe not even that.

 

Maybe I'll buy a pair of relays and build my own harness when the ceramic
connectors come in.

$22 True Mods 12V DC Auto Waterproof Fuse 5-Pin Relay Box Block [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fusible Holder] Universal Relay Block Box for Automotive Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Light Equipment

https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B07MR64XK1?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1


Look into the many relay/fuse relay with fuse box configurations on Amazon. You can most likely build a neater or cleaner more versatile power/relay harness yourself. But you really have to enjoy doing that sort of thing as you will be within just a few dollars of the ready-made harness Ryland linked if you use quality components. I considered a build that would combine my horn and crash&burn headlight mod but in the end, I couldn't justify it both time and money-wise.

 

Snip on random bs I didn’t mean to post.

Definitely way more to build your own. Way way way more if you attempt to use high quality parts. Fun though. If I could ever get out from under my work backlog, maybe @Shadowhunter can confirm. He’s on a year wait for me to get me ass in gear

 

164 days 18 hours and 3 minutes to be exact

 

F'ing ridiculous isn't it? Every night I think "tonight's the night". And each night I have some on-menu items to make and then it's midnight and I'm too tired to peel back into yours. And it's been so close for like a month now. I'm for sure letting perfect be the enemy of good.

 

How long did you have to wait for your sent in Odyssey headlight review? 9 months maybe? Backlogs can be brutal. On the flip side, saved you a bunch from buying headlights that didn’t fit your needs.

 

You hinted at the results of both headlight reviews pretty darn well. I trust your gut on everything (except weight of steel spare wheels

 

I should have weighed mine before recycling it rather than relying on 3rd party measurements.

 

Well one of the gt200s burnt out earlier this week. (Go figure after I bump charge voltage up for the agm) Time to go high wattage. What is the current bulb of choice for best all round performance. Ive got the headlight solutions harness

 

Osram 100/90w Superbrights. Looks to be sold out everywhere though, and be wary of the Chinese version sold on eBay. Headlight Services carries them now at a premium, might be worth checking there.

 

Will do. I wont touch Amazon or eBay. Hell I’m replacing an engine at work because someone bought “Toyota oem” spark plugs off eBay


Sucks I need bulbs when power bulbs is unable to ship to the us

 

Yeah, Bulbs America is out of stock too. I always suggest buying 2 pairs, so that you have an extra set on hand for when the first pair burns out, giving plenty of time to restock.

 

i had some spare narva stock wattage bulbs.. but man, the things glared really bad. i threw the stock osrams out of one of my non running trucks in for now. the filament on the narva bulbs are pretty misaligned. dont know what happened there.

 

Also posting here. Looks like my DRL’s run low beams rather than high beams. With the relay harness connected, low beam is effectively always on at full power. More work to do aiming them as the reference side (passenger) is too undefined to see well. New setup is better and an OK stopgap for now, I will cross my fingers that we might see a legit LED assembly for first gen Tundra.

 

No load goes through the stalk switch, the Tacoma uses a relay. However the power will be inadequate on the stock wiring for a high wattage bulb and it will not be a performance improvement without the harness. You also risk melting the connector, especially on high beam.

 

Alternatively you could disable the DRLs entirely.

 

Yep, temp plan is that, then redirect to switchback vleds I got for the corner lights.

I thought the DRL would have fed the high beam filament. That was the surprise part.

 

So are we supposed to be afraid of Amazon's Osram store? Real question, not sarcasm.

$15 OSRAM 62204SBP Premium Off-Road Super Bright H4 Headlight Bulb Vibration-Proof Technology, Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NRA91XM


Looks like Headlight Services has stock if you want to pay the price $17.50. Link below.

http://www.headlightservices.com/Bulbs.html

OSRAM Super Bright Premium 9003/H4
100W/90W 12V Off-Road Automotive Bulb