OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

Did you use any stainless right out of the compressor?

 

Thinking of these:
TAILONZ PNEUMATIC 3/8 inch od Push to Connect Fittings Pneumatic Fittings kit 5 Spliters+5 Elbows+5 tee+5 Straight (20 pcs)

$15 TAILONZ PNEUMATIC 3/8" od Push to Connect Fittings Pneumatic Fittings kit 5 Spliters+5 Elbows+5 tee+5 Straight (20 pcs)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RW4H2RH
TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Air Line 3/8 inch od Blue Pneumatic Nylon Tube 32.8ft Air Brake Tubing Nylon Hose

$22 TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Air Line 3/8" od Blue Pneumatic Nylon Tube 32.8ft Air Brake Tubing Nylon Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQST6FD?_encoding=UTF8

 

I have a viair that comes with a section of braided line, so yes. Probably a good idea to have given how hot the compressor gets.

 

I was also able to find a nice bulkhead connector that was 3/8 PTC on one side and 1/4npt on the other that worked really well for adding a quick connect to a bumper.

 

Any reason why just staying 1/4 would cause issues?

 

1/4” line has a 1/8” ID so it doesn’t pass air very quickly especially on long runs. Larger ID tubing means your pressurizing the tubing as well but the air flows more freely. For tire fills I’d use 3/8(1/4” ID) for lockers or other air actuated low volume accessories I’d use 1/4”.

 

OK. Something weird has happened with my ARB Dual Compressor.

Yesterday I was driving when I glanced at my Air Pressure gauge and saw that it was way up past the safe zone. I could hear the compressor running so I hit the switch in the cab to turn it off but compressor kept on running. I pulled over, shut off the engine and removed the key.

The compressor was STILL running. Finally, I had to pop the hood and pull the fuses to get the compressor to stop.

I put one fuse back in and the compressor (one side of it, at least) kicked back on. I pulled that fuse and stuck the other one in. Nothing.

Any thoughts?

 

Relay for that side is stuck on. I’d replace both relays and try to get either flux tight or at least ones with sealed skirts.
Edit- only the switch is powered by the ignition, the relays get power through the fuses directly from the battery so if the relays stick on the compressor stays on. Basically the contacts welded themselves closed.

 

Do you have a parts source for ARB Compressors?

 

Contact ARB for direct replacements. I’m a diy/ocd freak so I do things a bit different. How old is it by the way?

 

Oh, less than two years. But I don't know where the receipt is.

 

A relay is just a high amp switch that uses an electro magnet to close it against a spring that holds it open. High amp switches are subject to powerful arcing as they open/close so they wear out. It’s like having to replace the switch or brushes on a power tool, it’s a maintenance thing.

 

Nothing special about the relays. Since they aren't sealed/weather proof relays they can fairly easily get water in them and rust causing them to stick open or closed.
These are leftovers from when I replaced mine.

 

And they worked OK in your ARB Compressor?

Where did you get them?

 

Those are just 4-pin bosche style 40A relays. I had 2 that corroded just sitting in the clam shell door pocket for a few months. You can get them on Amazon or local automotive store. The 4-pin arrangement is standardized for that style.

$8 EHDIS Car Relay 4 Pin 12v 40amp Spst Model No.: JD2912-1H-12VDC 40A 14VDC, Auto Switches & Starters,Pack of 2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J53IH5...N6y&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img&th=1
This is what skirted relays look like but to use them you need to swap out the plug.

$10 irhapsody 4-PIN 40/30AMP 12V DC Waterproof Relay with Harness - Heavy Duty 12 AWG Tinned Copper Wires, 1 Pack SPST Automotive Relay

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D8TSMF...d_r=19fa72c7-16e8-4bbd-a99a-e27b2fd98c8a&th=1
It’s what I did but like I said diy and ocd. The ones on top are just plug/play.

 

They have worked fine for several years no. ARB doesn't use any special sauce relays. I originally replaced the pressure sensor but that didn't fix anything. Then found the messed-up relays. I was a bit disappointed that ARB didn't use Waterproof relays.

I don't recall but probably Amazon.

 

I use some waterproof relays off of Amazon, all relays are the same as long as the pinout is the same orientation.


Anybody got some good strap ideas for mounting the tank. Looks like on of my mounts broke off the bottom of the tank. Figured some sort of strap around the tank would work a little better.

 

OK.

I got new relays and got them installed. The compressor seems to cycle on and cycle off OK now. But another problem.

I have a leak somewhere. I checked all my connections doing the Soap Suds test and they are all good. But I discovered a hissing sound that seems to be coming from inside the compressor. Anyone ever have a problem like that?

 

That’s what a check valve is for. It goes after the braided hose and before the tank or manifold. Most compressor intake /exhaust valves in the head are just spring steel metal flaps that bend open under pressure from one side and then close enough to pump but don’t really seal. There isn’t room or necessity for anything more complex.

 

I already have a check valve in the system. Unless it's gone bad too.