09 Turn Over No Start after alternator fail

Ok TW I have a weird one. I was on a cross country trip drove to Cali and through Utah. I was also towing my motorcycle. Alternator has been rattling for a few months and I should have replaced it before the trip. Around Cedar City Utah the alternator shits the bed. I had to wait for auto parts to open and replaced the alternator and battery. The truck just turned and turned never catching. I assumed the fuel pump but I was at the end of street level stuff soci had it towed to a shop in town. Fuel filter was fine coil packs fine everything literally fine. Except they tell me the motor is blown because compression is so low. I literally spit coffee everywhere because I know what a blown motor sounds like and this motor is not blown. It has 105k on it and has been meticulously cared for. So now I’m in the process of getting it shipped from the shop to NC which is also a nightmare. Disclaimer, I have the 3 degree cams in the motor which retards the timing 3 degrees.

 

Damn, I just replaced the alternator on my 2009 Sport a couple months ago and had no issues. Mine failed electronically, not mechanically.

Hope they did the basics, checking for spark and fuel to the cylinders. My guess is a cam or crank position sensor, whichever these trucks have (never had to work on mine so I don't know what we have there). Hope you get it worked out. Not sure what you mean by the "fuel filter" being OK. Unless you added an aftermarket one these trucks have no real fuel filter other than the in-tank sock on the pickup.

 

You need to ask them what the compression in each cylinder was I would not take their word right now especially since they didn’t give you some in detail information

 

The other question for the OP... are you sure the rattle was from the alternator? Maybe it was a con rod or somesuch instead. Most alternators squeal rather than rattle when the bearings are failing. Maybe the shop is correct?? As noted above double check the detailed compression data.

 

Check your IGN 15amp fuse

 

I had a similar issue here on my 09 2.7L. Mine happened after a motor swap, I have a solar panel and thought I got the battery fully disconnected but didn’t. The positive for the alternator touched the block while I was disconnecting and sparked ever so slightly and the issue didn’t arise until a few days later where the truck would die and not start, only crank
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fuel-pump-troubleshooting.691938/

 

Spray some starter fluid in the intake when you crank it. If it fires up in starter fluid but then stops running with no more ether, that will tell you if the spark plugs are firing.

 

Yep they did all that the basics so to speak fuel air spark are all present. I feel like since it was fine until the alternator went it’s something like a fuse. But I always felt the rattling was a rod too. My Toyota mechanic friend said it was alternator and then a month later it went.

 

@caribe makaira might be able to help. I have read about similar problems with crank and no start. Its typically always a fuse or a combination of 2 or 3 fuse links.

 

But if fuel, air, and spark are all there it really can't be anything as simple as a fuse. If an ignition fuse was blown you wouldn't have spark. If the fuel pump fuse was blown you wouldn't have fuel.

One more basic thing to check is fuel pressure. If the pump is working but not up to spec the truck might not start or run.

 

Pull oil dipstick and see if you can see any fine metal particles, use a magnet if needed. If yes that should give indication of rod bearing or other internal failure
Good luck

 

Where is the ES stuff at? Fuel pump control circuit?

 

Did the throttle body ever get cleaned since the battery and alternator were replaced?

 

I cleaned it but I can’t remember if it was after I’ll say no. I found the compression numbers too 1-75 2-70 3-60 4-55 5-85 6-70

 

That's low af

I'd get a compression gauge and recheck

 

So how would I be able to continue to drive? I’ve been driving it for months since then no hesitation in anything

 

Asking hypothetical questions on the internet isn't going to get you very far. Sooner or later you're going to have to do some testing. Start with the basics. Do a compression test and post up the results, same for fuel pressure

 

I’d do my own fuel, ignition, and compression test now that you have the truck back.

Something is wrong here. I can’t see how you wouldn’t notice engine power loss with those compression numbers. And I don’t see an alternator going bad causing that either.

Star over. Recheck everything.

 

Right I have zero power loss