2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 FJ tcased overlanding rockcrawling do-it-all build

I have a JDM engine on an engine stand in my garage waiting for the dreadful day...

 

Cylinder 4 cooling mod is key to making them live longer. I think it applies to the newer models too.

 

My current issue is #2 cylinder missfire with lower compression on it then the other three.

 

Check the coil and the wiring harness for it. Plug could be broken or the coil bad. Won't help the compression of course.

 

Todd. You should of bought a rav4 v6 and boosted the fuck out of it.



oh yhe 760hp Camry finally blew up. So ~1 year running 760WHP with a bone stock engine! Impressive

 

Coil good, new plugs and wires. #2 is about 30 psi lower then the other three cylinders. So I get a random missfire code. Sometimes it won't show up for days. Other times it goes off 3 to 4 times in a 30 mile trip. For now it is just APIA! But I'm sure one day the engine is going to let go.

 

Haven't checked in with your build for sometime, looks like you've been busy.

I've been on a pretty similar path with my GX build and had some questions...

I picked up a set of 8 first gen tundra wheels (same as you) and was curious how prep was, what kind of paint you used and how they are holding up. I'm debating on whether I want to powdercoat them or be a cheap ass and just paint them.

 

Prep was basically just washing them real good. Didn't sand or anything. Wash with dish soap and water, dry and wipe down with some kind of paint degreaser. I used distilled spirits.

Paint was primer and paint in one,. This stuff, just whatever color you want: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum...imer-In-One-Actual-Net-Contents-11-oz/3729731

I used that on my daughter's wheels with a lot more prep work on those, holding up great after 6+ months. No prep on mine except for cleaning and they are holding up great after only a couple months. Both sets got clear coated, so that actually helps a lot with durability.

Lots of work but I'm happy with them and didn't have to spend the dime on powdercoating. That's expensive.

 

Scooby build thread created - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/got-a-2006-subie-for-a-daily.731977/

 

What? An update?

Sorta. Changed out trans fluid and the filter/strainer thing today, that's all. Below are the new strainer, o-ring for the strainer to valve body, o-ring for the dipstick tube and pan gasket. Yes, pan gasket. A750 trans uses a pan gasket, not FIPG.



Pan was clean, just the usual gunk after 311k miles. As you can see, there is a pan gasket from the factory. That pan hadn't been removed since new.



Old and new strainers. Old one was nasty and the screen inside was too.



New strainer screen.



Old strainer screen.



Had to reweld the tcase shifter a couple weeks ago. My weld broke and left it stuck in 4WD when I was pulling the stump out in front of the garage.







That's all I have for now. Been focused on the Subie lately. Driving that to and from work. But it looks like the stock motor is having common Subie issues and the headgasket on the driver side might be going out. Pukes coolant out of the overflow and I get detonation at high boost levels. So, time to save up for a built motor that shouldn't have those issue any longer. The headgasket problem has been resolved with the newer stuff. Otherwise, it's a super fun car to drive and tool around in.

 

Finally got around to replacing the throttle body wiring connector. No more ziptie holding it in place. The locking clip had broken when I was doing the intake manifold/timing belt swap shortly after I first got the truck.

You can see the zipties in this pic, holding the TB connector on place.



The new connector came from Amazon. At least on the V8, the TB and MAF connectors are the same, 6 wire connectors.

$14 Genuine New OEM Replacement Connector & terminals for p/n 90980-11858 etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KR8X1K

De-pinned the wires, only had one pop out of the factory wire connector.





Fortunately, the replacement comes with new wire ends and seals, so it was easily replaced.



Popped the wires into the new plug and it's all done. Truck still runs good, so I guess I did it right!

 

Also just pulled the rack off. Going to run this way for a while to see how much and if there is a difference in gas mileage without it. I haven't used it since installing it anyhow and it isn't super difficult to reinstall if I do need it.

 

Man, haven't seen this thread updated in awhile

Doubt the rack would make a difference; keeping that spare tire off would though.

 

Actually, it should. It's a huge wind damn and weighs probably 75lbs. I recall seeing mpg drop when I installed it so this will confirm things. Doesn't hurt loosing the weight from up high too.

The spare is either on the back or in the truck, not going to drive without one. Hanging off the back has zero effect on aero where it's at.

 

Damn, surprised the rack weighs that much!

As for the spare, you're right that it doesn't matter where it's at. But having it and not having it makes a difference! Although, who'd be crazy enough to not have one right?

Imagine driving 2k miles round trip to go off roading and not carry a spare

 

Mine made a noticeable difference on the highway with it off. Around town didn't notice anything. But on highway esp at 75/80mph you don't feel like you're pushing against a wall anymore. Mine was even higher profile though

 

So the rack is actually 58 lbs. Just weighed it. Feels a little heavier when trying to move it around by yourself since it's so awkward when fully assembled.

 

Yeah, that was the first thing I noticed after installing this one and driving the first time on the highway. It was a huge wind damn and felt like I was driving against a gale force headwind. Got used to it and never really noticed again unless it was really windy out. But I did notice the drop in MPGs.

 

Winch bumper and skid plates on my 5th gen dropped the mileage about 1-2 mpg. The Baja rack at least 1 mpg. MTs were the killer, solid 2 mpgs lost. The weight and every one of those knobbys catching air with an open bumper are really bad. If I play nice, I can get the computer up to 13 on a long trip, but avg is 12.5 consistently. Most the time I just say screw it, put the hammer down and let her eat. Wasnt really that expensive up until a few months ago.

 

I've seen as low as 9.6 mpg on longer trips with lots of freeway mountain passes. Unfortunately, that is every time I drive to San Diego to go see my daughter. I think it would be a little better if I had the headers and full exhaust like you have on your 4th gen, I'm just not there yet. I'll be driving out to San Diego again for Christmas, so I'll really find out if it's better without the rack or not. I know the bumpers and tires kill some of the mileage but it seemed like the biggest hit I took was after the rack was installed.

I'll probably just leave it off unless doing an extended wheeling trip. I had been thinking about setting up mounts for the highlift on it and possibly a storage box and solar panels. Be really easy to get that mostly setup with the rack on the ground.