What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Well I thought they were waterproof. That is dumb. I thought I could store hunting equipment in there and keep dust and water out. If they don’t protect what is in there other than keep thieves away there isn’t much of a point to them. I doubt that they are much of a cooler and ice would melt fairly quickly on a warm day.

 

Nope - Only caveat is that I do have the Pro model, so the truck does sit a little higher than the others. I am pretty sure the stock TRD Off-road will fit 265/75R16 with no rubbing. Someone may want to fact check me on that, though.

 

Yep! Their parent company (Sumitomo North America) has a manufacturing facility in Tonawanda.

 

Yeah, I was very surprised they weren't waterproof. Also, could never figure out why one of them had the "cooler" logo on it, while it seemed literally identical to the other side - agree that ice would likely melt pretty quick. There was very little space in them as the area that goes over the wheel well took up most of the space.

 

Went over 10k yesterday, changed oil, filter and rotated tires

The truck longevity battle is real and the main adversary here is road salt. And it seems like they empty what ever is left in the truck on my road . So, decided to go back to the OEM mud flaps as they provide a little better coverage/protection than what I had.

Looking at my take off flaps had me revisit an idea, to add add a small piece of 'flap' in front of the rear wheels just below the wheel flare. Don't have the right tools so they're rough around the edges but functional. Deleted wheel well push pin and used panel bolts to secure.

 

20ft steel beams on a 20 ft trailer, those Old man emu spings and king shocks dont sag at all

 

New shoes installed.

 

So my @MESO v2 dome and map lights came in the mail today from mjmotorsports808. Unfortunately, the rear dome light only works on red. The button won't let select between white and red. I think it's a dud. Also, passenger side front map light button is hit or miss between red, white, on and off. Sometimes they work when pressed and sometimes they don't.

Can I warranty these through @MESO or should I send them back to mjmotorsports808. They appear to be sold out everywhere at the moment.

 

Sure you already tried hitting the button(s) a bunch, but FWIW my maps and dome both require two taps to toggle between colors.

 

I would try motor sports first since that’s where the order came from

 

Yeah, I tried uploading a video, but TW didn't accept it. At first I thought I needed to try a combination of switches and button pushing or something like that, but nope. I tried pushing the dome light button several times, red only on the rears and the front passenger side map light is just as bad. At least I can get both colors on the map light.

Back to mjmotorsports808 they go I guess. I'll wait till @MESO gets a fresh batch and order from them whenever they come back in stock.

 

Mine are finicky also and require a random amount of presses to switch the lights. The fronts take 2 out 3 usually and the rear is extremely random, sometimes works first try, others it takes over 10 presses

 

thats the consensus on here, thats what i have on my truck and have zero rubbing

 

House and truck are ready for Christmas. Also took my daughter to get her first real Christmas tree.

 

No problem!
I used the Clazzio kit that's meant for Toyota (square buttons) here: https://www.clazzio.com/heated-seats.php
The Rostra videos online are great for removing the upholstery, mostly notably the hog ties which I chopped up with really sharp wire cutters. The videos show you how to cut the pad, etc. and is just really good. They are identical to Clazzio, so it doesn't matter. That process was "Easy" in the sense that following the instructions was perfect and I had no questions. But it's slow as hell. Took about two hours per seat, maybe three. But there's plenty of videos on that part and the re-assembly using zipties. I highly recommend long bent-nose pliers like I said above and also the other little self tips.

But almost no videos on the wiring.

I purchased 2 add-a-fuse (AKA add-a-circuit) specifically the ATM-LP (LP is for Low Profile and that matters and it's annoying as shit to find right now) and I had left over 22guage wire taps. If you can find 3 add-a-circuits, do that instead of tapping because it's just cleaner.

Also get a little pack of ATM-LP fuses. There are packs that have one of each amperage and that's all you need.

You will need a replacement fuse box lid from Meso or Etsy (mine is coming in today from Etsy) because the fuse box cannot be closed once you use these.

Make sure you look up how to use Add-a-fuses if you haven't already. The orientation of the fuses and the plug matters. I used a multi-meter to detect the live circuit side (was the outside of each). This will make sense once you watch a video about it.

The add-a-fuse goes into the pre-existing S/HEATER position in the interior fuse box. I couldn't believe it but they had a 20amp fuse already in there (same with the sun roof that I don't have). Combine the two fat wires from the seat harness into that and crimp, etc. Then just put that existing 20 amp fuse into the top position of the add a fuse and leave the bottom one blank. You're basically using the add-a-fuse here for the pig tail wire, not for having two fuses.

The next wire is going to be the ON wire that goes with your ignition items so the seats turn on and off with the ignition (as opposed to staying on indefinitely and killing your battery). Combine those together into one, connect to the pig tail and put them into your WASHER fuse position. Make sure to place the original 10amp fuse in the bottom and you can use a 7.5 or 10amp fuse for the ON wire.

The final one is only in Chinese but use Google Translate and it says night light AKA illumination. I tapped this into one of my left panel buttons illumination wires from another project because I knew what they were (and were the same color). But if you found a third add-a-fuse (hooray!) then do the same process as above and you can link into the TAIL fuse, which is where all the headlight/tail light/illumination lights come from. That's also 7.5 amps, so just do two 7.5amp fuses into that one.

That's it for the actual wiring connections. The routing is fairly obvious (and should probably be done first). You're going to have pull up the console and kick panel, route the pad wires under the carpet from both sides for the seats (it sucks, I have many cuts, wear gloves or something), get the button wires into the console and shoves those down into the gear shift area as well and join all that shit together. Then pull through into the kick panel area, up and over (I zip tied to the steering wires) and up into the rats nest on the left. Everything only works one way, so you should be able to figure it out. the plugs only work for each other so you can't mess it up. I stuffed all the excess wires under the charging pad.

I did all the wiring FIRST after removing the seats so I had plenty of room. And tested the pads naked (thus the thermometer picture). Then you can button up the entire dash and have just your little plugins sitting on the floor under the seat. Then, depending on your day, you could put the seats back in if you've managed to kill a whole Saturday and just know that you've got time to do the seats one at a time later. Highly recommend doing them one at a time on the tailgate to save your body all the suffering.

Good luck!

 

Installed the Toyota Bed Step:

 

My favorite mod.

 

I installed mine, but have to power them up still. Where did you pull your power from on your seats?

 

What do you mean "power them up"? I did a write up above you here: 220274

Short answer is that I used the existing Space Heater fuse/circuit that was powered because YAY universal parts. Maybe I should install that imaginary sun roof soon.

 

Absolutely one of the best. I use it so often.