Anything welding

Thanks for the advice! I can't find this one in stock anywhere, but even just reading its specs is helpful. Do you mind sharing what you paid (and when)? I can't find much price info online.

Thanks, the straightedge cut is probably 90% of what I want to do. Sounds like I want a "drag tip," but it's hard to compare terminologies across brands, at least the sketchy import ones I'm considering. I wish I could afford a Miller, but I'm strictly a hobbyist, and I'm lucky if I have more than a few weekends per year for projects. I do buy a lottery ticket from time to time though, just to feed the delusion of someday having nice tools and the time to use them.

There used to be a shop near where I work with a gigantic hydraulic shear, and the guy there would cut sheet panels for me for free whenever I wanted (which was like once or twice a year). Went back recently for the first time since covid... the guy retired and the shop is completely gone Time to buy a plasma cutter and a straightedge!

Thanks for the advice, would you mind sharing what model you recommend, and also how to get the $50 off? I can't seem to find it.

* The $280 CUT50D model is a "lift start" style, which I think means it won't cut perforated metal without manually re-striking for each segment (right?)

* The $400 CUT50DP model has a "no touch" arc, which I think might mean "pilot arc" (right?). But I can't actually tell if it would be compatible with drag cutting w/ straightedge, or cutting perforated metal. Is it better than the $280 "lift-start" version above in all regards, or are there drawbacks to the "no touch" technology?

It also has a lower minimum cutting power... 10A vs. 20A for other models. Would that make it useful for cutting body metal? One of my upcoming projects is to install a high-clearance rear bumper, where I have to cut off the lower rear fenders. Can I use this or any other plasma cutter to cut through my truck's painted bodywork, or is it better to use a cutoff wheel?

* The $500 CT-520DP model seems to be identical to the above model in specs, but adds stick/TIG features. I am tempted by the TIG, as I'd like to be able to weld stainless and aluminum sheet metal from time to time. But my current HF multi-process welder ("unlimited 200") came with a TIG torch as well, yet it has turned out to be mostly useless for this owing to the lack of a foot pedal and also because its DC scratch-strike only. (No doubt aided by my absolute lack of welding knowledge or experience.) Would the CT-520DP model (with HF strike and optional foot pedal) be any better for tig stainless or aluminum work, or is it just another tourist trap delaying my hopefully eventual purchase of a dedicated tig machine?

* The $680

$699 CUT60 60Amp Non-Touch Pilot Arc PT60 Torch Plasma Cutter 110V/220V Dual Voltage 3 Year Warranty

CUT60 takes us back to dedicated plasma cutting and is presumably a much better machine. The key difference, other than increased power, is a blowback torch, which seems to be crucial for CNC work. Sadly I don't have space or budget for a CNC table for the foreseeable future, so is there any other reason to consider this upgraded model for hand-held work (other than its higher power, which I don't think I need)?



Really appreciate the feedback, you guys are the best!

 

Congrats on the new job! Do you know what those parts are for?

Pretty awesome you are getting on the job experience while in school. What did you do before you switched careers?

 

Thank you!

The shop offers everything from outdoor grills (the kind found at state and national parks), benches, street lighting, tables, and more.

Those I made are bench frames and they'll get surface mounted with an oak backseat installed. We've got a large woodshop just next door to mine.

The company also has 2 foundries for pouring/casting aluminum and they've made a ton of benches for cities.

Military (usmc, disabled vet), law enforcement, car business, and now welding. Been around the block you can say

 

I think I paid $1400 or it may have been $1700, 20 years ago.

The plasma cutter gets used alot. I think I may be on 10 set of consumables.

I cut these this morning, I can't remember when I changed tips.

I

 

Oops. Final product.

Listed in the for sale other section.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/medium-size-fabrication-square.747279/

 

I think I paid around 500-550. This was probably 2 or 3 years ago now

 

I always cut angle iron with the V pointed up that way the vise holds things as long as it works.

I am not allowed to touch wood after failing Wood Shop.

 

I have a friend That has a set of those or something close I used .

 

They are handy.

 

You guys are out here talking about wood and handy's...

 

I'll keep that one in mind!

Short of buying a block (similar to a barrel vice), what should I use to clamp tubing?

 

Had to deviate and cut a bunch of pipe.

Then help move some big ass windows.

Got back to weld up some frames -



And didn't realize we had 2 powder coating shops.

One is huge, like an entire warehouse-sized setup with a huge oven and all.

Then I walked into the smaller one by accident -

 

Don’t listen to me but . . . I just use an extra quarter turn haha.

 

I have several in my shop and heres my list just keeping it simple.

First one I have put some abuse through is eastwoods plasma cutter, its hand held uses 230v 60 psi preasure have cut up to 1/2 plate really well also can be used for gouging.

Next one little extra money but completely worth it in my opinion. Is the Hypertherm powermax series, for what you are doing the PM 45 would be perfect. I have the powermax 45 xp and powermax 85 on My cnc's I have over 1000 hours of cutting on my pm 45xp. And they have the ability to cut fine cut which is a huge plus since clean up is easy.

Those are my top choices let me know if you have any questions i could also do a demo of both if you like. I used all three in bulding my bed rack system

 

I second the hypertherm.

My miller does not have a machine torch accessory.

Those machine torches will amaze you on cut quality.

 

That won't hurt the strength at all.

The stress is mostly up and down. You arent touching the web part of the tongue at all.

You should drill over sized holes in the box you are attaching to the tongue and just use large washers. There is some flex and it could cause the box to get some of that flex. Might make opening the box difficult after a while.

I've only seen it once and that trailer was beat like a rented mule.

 

Thanks for the reply. I deleted my question right after asking it because I came to the realization I could just scoot the box forward a few inches to matchup with the width of the frame and weld some tube spacers in-line with it, but since you were quick to reply, I may as well ask which method is better, if any. Or is it six in one hand, half dozen in the other.

 

Anyone using a tool chest as a welding cart, or have any other ideas? I'll be so excited to be rid of the cheap HF POS, plus I need more room now after adding a Plasma cutter. I've seen the ZTfab kit, but figured I could modify one myself.

Looking at the 41" Craftsman currently.

 

Forward is better.

The weakest point is at the 65 degree junction where the tongue legs meets the front of the main frame.

If someone doesn't balance the load properly and puts all the weight forward, that point is always where the tongue bends/breaks.

I just cringe when I see the overlander trailer builders but weld their tongues to the front of the trailer frame. I gave up commenting some time ago.

 

back when I was halfass drawing up a design, I was planning on a tube to run the full length of the trailer sized to take the tongue. The idea was to use it as a draw bar, kinda like our pole trailers at work. collapse it it or extend it out as needed, and in a real bind, pull it out all the way and reverse it to be able to pull the trailer from what was the rear.