33" w/ 4.56 Gears - Your Experience?

so about 1 mpg loss? with your setup.. I know every truck and situation is different.

just trying to get a base number.. I've been playing with the idea to go to 4.56's as well. already S/C'd with other goodies, but want more. seeing if its really worth it. the $$$ and hit on gas mileage. ~1 mpg isnt bad..

hmmm..

 

What model ARB front locker are you using with 4.56, the 111 or the 121?

 

Good question. ECGS prebuilt for me so I'm not sure.

 

There is a YouTube video of a Taco doing 10-60mph with a S/C and 4.56s if you're interested. Dunno why he didn't do 0-60. Point being, if that's what you are after it might help you to decide whether the money spent will net you what you're hoping to gain.

 

not really about the 0-60 times.. im good there already.. I just want more low end power for wheeling.. and the eventual addition of 285/75/17's and armor.

 

Okay cool. That's good cause his truck wasn't fast I didn't think. LoL

You likely know this better than I do since you have the S/C but the power improves as it spools up. The 4.56 gears by themselves will make a big difference though since it changes the direct ratio of power to the wheels. Plus it should have a big impact on low range crawling.

 

bingo. instant off the line torque with a regear. S/C takes care of the rest. wheeling and the added weight thats coming is the real reason

 

@Kyitty , I was researching, the same question as you were, when you started this thread. I'm curious after two years, what is your thoughts on 33"s with 4.56 gears?

Even though I believe 4.56 will be way too much as the truck is my DD, and I believe 4.30 will be a better option, for me, Im still interested in how your truck runs on the highway at highway speeds with the 4.56? how the RPMs? Overall are you happy with your choice?
thanks

*I do understand that their will be some differences with an AT and MT.

 

So, obviously my truck is an AT. And that definitely makes a difference to the extent that you get more choice in when and how the damn transmission shifts. Haha! You can downshift when you want and don't have to when you don't want to (drive an AT up a incline and it'll drive you nuts).

Anyhow, at 75mph I run about 2,600 RPM. Because I'm technically over geared from a tire to gear ratio I run higher RPMs. This means more fuel use. However, my truck is heavy. Steel bumpers front and rear, winch, Pelfreybilt sliders, skid plates front to back, a topper, Frontrunner Roof Rack, full size spare in the bed, jack stands, HiLift, recovery gear on the roof... etc. And this is my DD setup. Come camping time I've got a 94lb Rottie, kennel, and camping gear in the back! The lower gear ratio helps retain some torque low end for me. Unadjusted for tire size (Speedo/Odo were calibrated at factory for like 31" tire size) I average around 14 MPG. When I originally got my tires I calculated my ODO was off by about 9%. So it records approximately 91% of my miles driven. Meaning, I'm actually getting better than 14 MPG.

However, I just drove from Bozeman, MT to Butte, MT yesterday. Unadjusted I got just over 11 MPG (it's nearly all up hill). I'm certain my drive back will be much better mileage once I got fill the tank back up as it's mostly down hill on the way back. But I was going 80-85mph most of the way (so 2,700 RPM or higher on flat ground).

I will say this. Had I not re-geared this truck would be terrible to drive. It's slow as hell as it is. I can't imagine having the original 3.70 gear ratio with all this weight!! And some day when I'm not dirt broke I'd like to fit 34-35" tires under it. And that's why I originally went 4.56 gears. Though I can see why someone with 35's and armor would want 4.88's.

EDIT: Oh yes! I will also add this. Having 4.56 gears makes down-hill descent in 4x4 LO 1st Gear fucking awesome!! Rarely need the brakes.

 

Thread revival!!!
I have pondered this for years, but finally pulled the trigger since I am planning to go to 33s (275/70-17) or 34s (285/75-17) soon. I just ordered 4.56s with the True Trac for the rear, was on the fence for the Torsen in front but decided against it......... Currently have 265/70-17s and drive around town with the truck in 4.....only time I use D is on the highway.... The truck is a slug, I don't mind over gearing it a bit.
I also have front and rear bumpers on the way so ....

 

Finally got around to swapping the diffs this weekend, took about 15 hours with a few breaks to do it by myself...... took it out for a couple test drives and all I have to say is this is how it should come from the factory. I was worried the engine RPMs would be screaming, but not even close.... looking forward to more driving time, but my initial reaction is I should have done the swap long ago....

 

Good to hear and I'm looking forward to seeing how you like that limited slip differential. I'm thinking about a putting it in my two-wheel drive pre-runner to have some more traction off-road. Really don't want to deal with swapping in the locker

 

Couple years ago I picked up a base model 4x4 mt 3rd gen 4runner for my son, it had 204k on it and the only issue was the pinion bearing in the rear diff was going....so i bought 3rd member from ecgs and added the true trac.... true trac made a huge difference since the T4R originally had an open rear end. Driving in snow you really don't need to put it in 4wd, quite fun in 2wd. From what I have read adding the true trac to my TRD Sport will work great with the factory "limited slip".... so I added one when I switched to the 4.56 gearing.

I did have the truck up to 80mph on the highway with my current tires (265/70R17) and I wouldn’t say the rpms were screaming, but I do notice the drone of the engine (have a magnaflow exhaust). My intention all along is to go to 33s so I am happy with my choice. It is nice being able to roll on the gas when driving into a headwind or up a slight incline without the truck looking for the right gear.

 

Thanks for the update on the truetrac. Sounds like it'll work out good for my 2wd