IAC High Idle Risk

Hey all,

2001 Tacoma 3.4L. I have been experiencing high throttle for the last two weeks, 1200-1350 rpm hot. My rig just threw a P0505 on the way back to camp site.

I cleaned out my throttle body and plenum the other day before this high throttle started, but I know I got some junk in the IAC air cavity. I haven't cleaned the IAC ever. 260K miles, 2001. Truck has always been 800-1100 rpm hot since I got it 3 or 4 years ago.

My work is demanding, rarely have time off and I'm having to always hurry through my work on my truck. Currently in the middle of nowhere with work for the next 4 days.

I have some throttle body cleaner, MAF cleaner (better for IAC?) And all the tools required to do this job WITH ME BUT the gasket is at home... 400 miles away... I could see if autozone has one... And do it twice. (Don't have a multimeter/fusetap)

Since I have high throttle, I'm assume the door is stuck open. I'm not really wanting to rip off my plenum/throttle/IAC with a headlamp on dirt or pavement after 10 hours of work in the dark...

Best guess.. what am I risking driving 20 miles on the daily for the next 4 days and then... 300+ miles back home...

If I keep my eye on the engine temps (OBDII) and I don't keep throwing codes I should be able to make it eh? provided the door doesn't magically close on the IAC and get stuck shut..

Would MAF cleaner be better to spray in and clean the IAC?

 

your never going to get it clean on the truck might just make it worse.

As long as you can live with the high idle wait till you get home

 

Suggest full replacement?

 

Remove the throttle body and the IAC and give it a good cleaning.

Trying to clean the IAC on the vehicle just gets more dirt into it because while on the engine it has no way to drain out.

Know sometimes they do fail to the point it is time for a new one.

 

Yeah my thoughts as well. I guess you just put my mind as ease

 

i'd test the terminals of the IAC and make double sure the connector is on properly.

 

Just ordered a little power unit for my leads to test it. Good thinking.

Bought new hoses to redo the air lines just waiting for a good day off to do it. I haven't checked the trims. New PCV valve, new grommet, new PCV hose.

 

A high idle is not a cause for a trail repair. You'll make it home just fine - no need to start ripping things apart until you have the time to properly address things. MAF cleaner is not suitable for IAC cleaning.

You say that you're camping? are you camping at a different altitude than you daily drive at? Air is thinner at altitude, and your ECU may be trying to compensate.

 

Thanks @Andy01DblCabTacoma I have been camping/driving anywhere from 1 - 10 - 2000 to 8000 ft elevation and the rpm reading has relatively stayed much the same.

I'm going to tackle this today and check its function before and after. Has anyone had issues blasting throttle body cleaner in the IAC door area? Should I just use some rags/brushes/qtips in there instead?

 

It's pretty bad in here. Door is opening, but when it closes back there's a 1/4 gap opening. Closing function doesn't do anything. Gonna clean it out. Does anyone know if spraying throttle body cleaner in there will screw up the electronics?

 

All cleaned out and the door closing function is working now, back to 1000 rpm hot. I'm gonna start replacing all the hoses to see if I have a leak.

For those wondering about using throttle body cleaner in here, I only did short spurts to push out what carbon I had lossened with a synthetic bristle pipe cleaner, q-tips and a wooden kabab stick with gun cleaner pads. I always kept the green side with the electronic connection aimed up when I sprayed in there.



Thanks all for your info

 

Just want to follow up one last time.

• TPS replaced
• IAC Plenum/Cavity on TB side cleaned
• IAC Door cleaned
• IAC Gasket Replaced

Throttle start 900-1500 RPM (avg 1250)
Throttle idle 650-900 RPM depending on conditions (Avg ~700)
Problem fixed.

 

Had the same issue recently. Glad you got it resolved

 

I had dirty throttle body idle issues for about 6 months (it happened after I cleaned it without taking it off). I went ahead and replaced the whole throttle body with a new OEM. The rubber parts were starting to disintegrate. My truck is at the age where if something is going out (or continues to be problematic), I swap things out with new while im in neighborhood

 

@Currygoat
That looks nice.
I do usually do a full OEM replacement on things if it's justified. Luckily my TB is doing great. Most of my electrical components that fault are now working after deep cleaning them up with some deoxit and rubber.

I regret getting an OEM alternator, wish I had gone for the bigger amp'd caddy. Also my starter failed on the road and I had to snag a duralast and do it in the parking lot... Truck doesn't sound like a yota when it starts

A full replace example was I wanted to recharge my R134a and get a new AC reciever dryer. Called around, people wanted 300-550 for the "repair." My trucks a 01 and I got it in 16' and it's never blown cold air and I thought that there's probably some gremlins in the system, and only a recharge with the drier would lead to more spending. So for around 550 I was able to get all new Denso components for the entire ac system and ripped it all out myself and put new orings on everything. Sold the compressor and EVAP. AC system is a dream now for those Mojave trips.