2TR-FE Performance Thread

A wise choice. Super owner friendly too, considering all of the capability.

 

Its 75 mm but now I change it to70mm . I have it about 2 years . I made this kit. My car transmission is automatic

 

With a cold air intake lce header and urd tune on my 2.7 how much power will I increase

 

Sir,
Just an FYI the LCE header with a good flowing exhaust system will help you the most. I really shouldn’t say this, but your mid-pipe has two cats I removed the second clean up cat and replaced it with a 5x8x14 muffler as a resonator. Then purchased the new Magnaflow Overland system with the Drone technology and my exhaust with the Magnuson blower SCREAMS but no drone. I’m now installing a 5x8x18 in place of the 5x8x14. Then adding a 4” round x14 muffler with a turn down at the very end. The factory exhaust is 60mm and 2.5” exhaust is 63.5mm. No big gain or have a “Very LARGE” through flow muffler welded in place.
Next do NOT change the factory air filter as they are the best for filtration & flow if keep clean plus they can be washed if you do it correctly. (They are a cotton filter) I keep two and wash then let dry as I install the clean one every other or every oil change. The K&N type filters are JUNK and don’t filter for $h!t‼️ If you want a CAI buy this one in the top link below they come in black & red too. Then remove the right side fender liner to remove the intake box in the top of the fender. I have been thinking very hard about installing a NACA duct (bottom link) in the right front fender but I don’t want to cut the fender or look like a Ricky Racer…

*Edit* Even the two companies that make the supercharger kits keep the stock air filter & box. When it would be much easier to add a cheap ass cone air filter. I owned a V6 pre-runner when I owned a Quad to pull it to the dunes. One weekend the wind was blowing hard & it was cold so I started up the truck for the heater as I set in the truck idling for about 3 hours off a on. On the way home I got a CEL and the truck was not running so good. I stopped and looked but had no idea what could be wrong. So I limp home to dig in to see what the issue was. I pulled the New K&N filter off to see the intake tube was covered with sand and dust‼️ I pulled that piece of shit off cleaned up everything reset the light and no more issues. I called K&N and said hey. They had me send in the filter to check it out. I wait about 2 weeks to call them because they didn’t call me. They said there was nothing wrong with the filter and said I must have installed it wrong then asked me for a CC# to cover the return shipping! I told them to shove that filter where the sun doesn’t shine. 100% Dead Serious Truth‼️

As for the tune I would see if you can find a reputable tuner that can tune the stock ECU on a Dyno. Best to just forget about the tune as the ECU will tune itself. Just unhook the battery when you install the air tube and header.
I don’t know what trans you have or the tire Dia you have but a set of gears can be found for fairly cheap. Say if you have the stock Dia. tire size and a manual trans go find gears from a auto trans 2.7 or 3.58 gears. If you have a auto trans get a stock set from a V6 6 lug Tacoma or 3.73.
Believe this or not adding the blower gave the little 2.7 a good boost in performance but it wasn’t cheap. The next thing I did was install bigger rubber and according to the charts to get back to the stock gear ratio I should have used the 3.58 rear gear but I went to the 3.73. This was the absolute best bang for the buck! Even better than the header & exhaust much better‼️ The factory gears these trucks for emissions and the slower the RPM’s the less emissions out the tail pipe. So Toyota gears the trucks as tall as they can and still be “drivable”. This is from a head engineer at Toyota!

Good luck.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/392927444166?fits=Engine+-+Liter_Display:2.7L|Model:Tacoma&epid=21041513449

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273885407704

 

Thanks man yeah I got the 2nd cat deleted and a good flowing exhaust

 

AZ they just check the gas cap and plug into the OBG port. The factory system doesn’t know the second clean up cat is missing. I remember going through emissions with the large URD intercooler showing through the grill. The tech at the emissions said to me after everything was completed said “I don’t know how you did it but you passed.” I then said to him “why would you say that?” He said “I see the intercooler.” I told him “you mean you never seen an intercooler why would that make a difference?” He just smile and said “have a good day.”


Also when I say the exhaust system screams Women and Children run for the hills anything over 3k RPM’s. It’s really embarrassing!

 

2nd cat has no sensors in it anyways. All O2 sensor bungs are for primary cat (left side- one with the heat shield) only:




Even in states where they do sniffers, removing the 2nd cat will still pass, assuming your primary cat is functioning correctly.
If you live in a state that just does OBD2, you can remove both cats and use an O2 sensor spacer. That's how I did it here in NY and passed emissions without any issue.

I have the URD Power Pipe, and used THIS O2 sensor spacer, with the middle insert. No CEL's, no issue passing NYS inspection.

 

Well I like a cat so I can start up in the garage and pull out, then pull in without watering eyes & gassing out the house when I go in from the garage. Happy Wife = Happy Life‼️ Plus I do believe in this Global Warming crap. And by having a cat you might lose 2 HP if that. Now if you have a 1000hp race car then that’s different.
Plus why spend that much money on a spacer when you can pickup a pair of these (top link) for $4 and drill out the center with a 1/2” bit if memory serves me right. Just make sure to use high heat Anti-seize. (bottom link) This stuff is worth it’s weight in gold as it’s 3 times the cost of other Anti-seize but it doesn’t separate. I go through a bottle about every 3 years. I use it on just about everything like lug nuts & especially my Titanium bicycle’s.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144298004055?epid=115090561

$25 MMC78 Nickel Base Anti-Seize Lubricant Compound 2500°F (8oz)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKHBH62?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

Because the J-bung spacer fits better, and the insert options allow me to fine tune the flow of exhaust past the sensor if I got wonky readings.
I picked up way more than 2hp by deleting the cats, but being turbo it was expected. On an NA car you'll pick up more than 2hp regardless.
The smell is nowhere near as bad as you'd think...trust me. We're not V8's. We don't generate much exhaust at idle, even cold.
I've been catless since August and regret not doing it 3 years ago when I did the turbo.

 

Yeah I felt like a gained a little power taking just the one off like my 0-60 used to be 9 secs now it’s 8 after taking one of the cats off and a throttle response module

 

Well I talk to the tuner and they said everything was Ok with the vendor on doing the tuning.
So now I’m taking my truck in on 1-3-22 so they can to finish the wiring (they didn’t want me to connect the last wire to the injector/s something about that’s not correct.) Plus they want to check the turn with a 1# nozzle on the water / methanol system. WTF, Per the manufacture I should be using a 3.5# nozzle. I know absolutely nothing about tuning so who am I to say. The tuner said you only need the water for cooling being the system doesn’t have an intercooler.

I then called Wes this morning 12-23-21 because he’s only there in the mornings and will be gone after the first of the year. ( I think this is what’s going on ) A gentleman by the name of Steve will be the new GM. So I called to tell him Thanks for everything and to have a Merry Christmas. He puts me on speaker phone and we all had an interesting conversation. Now guys this is not in stone and this is my wording! The vendor is going to offer the system as a “Ala carte” system. The vendor will provide all the hard parts then it’s up to the customer to get the tuning by the way of the tuner, BullyDog or a number of other ways or you can purchase the system with a Haltech programmed. After the first of the year they want me to bring them my truck so they can install the Haltech. Something about coping the tuning from my truck. I didn’t quite understand what they were saying because I was thinking SHIT! That’s going to add to the cost big time.
AGAIN this is not in stone but once the vendor gets the superchargers they want to provide reputable tuning and if the tuner won’t contact the vendor who’s to think they will reply to the buyer / end user.

Now I know very little about these motors on boost but I would think that the Magnuson supercharger would be the way to go for 4x4 as I it provides more Torque out of the hole and the other system/s provide more upper end HP. I would really like a turbo setup on my little 5 lug regular cab but if I still had a 4x4 I would rather have the Magnuson. I owned a URD Rotrex too and would most likely still have it but after reading about the issues I didn’t want to be in the middle of BFE and the blower takes a dump. The main reason for buying a Toyota is reliability! The Rotrex does have more on the top with the intercooler. *I* don’t think the water is as good as the large air to air intercooler but I’m sure it’s going to help on the top end.
Ok I’m done rambling…

 

First time getting to test fit V2 of my 2TR-FE turbo manifold. As well as the first rough tests of a down-pipe in the making. Just enough time to do so, before other responsibilities called.

 

A "kit" without a tune is just wasting people's time and money, anyone can throw shit together so no need a middle man. Adding my intercooler was cake, I think adding injection for heat is complicating a easy fix however it's probably to retain the factory air box (I couldn't do this, wish I did). The TUNE is really the only reason to buy a kit. Shit, I can offer a "kit" without a tune, who wants one? I know a guy that makes manifolds ^

Will you be able to retain the factory air box and washing fluid reservoir?

 

So far, we are looking at the possibility of keeping the OEM intake box. However, it will require modification. As in a new location for the air to be drawn from. With the current internal wastegate location (BW EFR OEM) there is an interference with installing the air box post turbo. The airbox would have to be installed prior to the turbo being bolted down.

With the Turbosmart hinged wastegate, there may be more room to fit. We have not tried that yet. Although the W/G is in hand.

Turbo fits without bending any A/C lines. Nice plus. It also is very close to utilizing the the URD intake tubes. That it is so close to being modular with the URD kit, it retains the washer fluid reservoir.

 

Sorry guy don’t shot the messenger! The vendor for the Magnuson supercharger system was & Still Is trying to work with the “Tuner” http://dynocomp.com/ but they have not been returning calls or emails. Who knows maybe they are not seeing or getting the messages? Because my last call to the tuner the GM picked up the phone. I told him I have been trying to contact you and have left voicemails. He wanted to know when and how many times because voicemails go to his email and he said he hadn’t seen any from me. Then he said I wasn’t the first to say something. I have no idea what going on but the vendor wants to make sure if a customer purchases a system the tuner will be there. I don’t think you would like to purchase one you get it installed then the tuner doesn’t reply! I would be upset like anyone else!

And yes the factory air filter is far superior to cone filters!

As for the water / methanol system I totally agree I would much rather have an intercooler. But being there’s no intercooler I’m just trying to cool the charge somewhat.
1st. photo below is a blue 12mm x 4an fitting taped in the very bottom of the washer tank that holds a gallon & half of fluid after I got the mod idea from @BassAckwards bottom photo
2nd. photo if you look closely you can see the blue fitting just above the 90 that’s connected to a 14” line (12” line was about a 1/2” to short) to a Snow 50 micron filter (the greenish glass) mounted directly to the pump. I called Snow to ask if installing a 100 micron filter after the pump would be Ok? They said there was no need to. But I would like to. (To give you some orientation the red heat shrink you see is the back of the fog light)

 

Yeah looks good.
What do you think about cutting the flange off this and weld on a 2TR flange a little K04 action

 

I would love to wrangle a Garrett G-series bottom mount turbo in there, not interfere with AC and utilize factory air box just saying

 

I was talking to my friend about how I'd love to do just that. As far as for making a bottom mount turbo. Plenty of room to fit the BW EFR6758 down there. A properly sized any-other-brand should fit too.

Should the primaries line up with the 2TR ports, absolutely!

 

@BassAckwards, want to give it a try?