2021 Sport already starting to rust out? Is this a warranty issue?

I've been a parts manager for most of the last 37 years. We've had brand new batteries come in from the distributors that were covered in acid. Many of the ones we get back as cores are also leakers. Before rinsing anything off I would dust the sides of the battery with plain baking soda to see if the apparent moisture is rain water or acid. If the baking soda indicates acid you'll have most of your answer right there. Interstate (Johnson Controls) makes all the standard Toyota batteries here in the US (as they do for Honda and several other brands). They are all cheaply made these days.

 

Alright so I got out there this afternoon and... the battery was sitting in an acid bath -- the battery tray was filled with battery acid.






The passenger side looks decent, although there is possible evidence of some jerkoff whacking the shit out of the area too.







Alright so at this point things are looking pretty damn wet. So is it acid, or is it something harmless?

Let's take a look...

(note: the little flecks/splashes are from the rain, but the overall wetness is not)










It looks like maybe the battery is leaking possibly due to one too many ugga duggas on someone's wrench during reinstall? It looks a bit... pinched where the clamp meets the battery.






Truck is currently sitting with the battery removed and something like 2# of baking soda just hanging out. Sometime before the day's over I'll head out there for some scrubbing/hosing down.

People wash the engine bay all the time -- is it safe to assume using a normal garden hose (even in an area with all that wiring) is safe?

Also wondering if I should be worried about any wires that might've gotten corroded? Based on what I've seen it looks like the plastic sheaths have protected the wiring in that area?

 

Wow, thanks for the detailed overview. keep us updated.

 

It looks like that battery was clamped down way too tight.... Wonder if the lift people took out the battery at any point to see if the upper control arm bolt could be taken out with the battery out.

 

Signs point to yes.

 

I wash my engine bay with a hose and pressure washer all the time. You shouldn't have any issues (in my experience).

What shop did you go to ? I'm relatively close to you and want to make sure I don't accidentally go there if I ever need a lift haha

Nice detailed posting! I will be checking my battery today.

 

Good thing you noticed it when you did.

 

I don't wanna put them on blast because at the very least they're nice dudes and I haven't reached out to them regarding this issue at all, so take this post with a grain of salt.

Went to Landcruiser NW in Portland, they came recommended by someone here.

Honestly this is at least partly my fault -- they're known for working on custom 80s-90s Toyotas and it seems like maybe they're not equipped/staffed for a 2010+.

Now if that's the case... they should've just turned me away to be responsible, but you can't put a fart back in the bottle.

Life goes on.

 

Good job taking matters into your own hands!

I prefer wrenching on my own cars as much as possible for these very reasons. You can now clean it out as much as you want and not have some shop just pass a rag around and consider it done.

 

Thanks for letting us know!

Really hope you can get this all sorted out.

 

But, but, but, flooded lead acid batteries are the only way to fly... Those pesky AGM's are never gonna fully charge, and you're gonna miss that full charge whether you miss it or not. Trust me.
A half gallon of loosely contained sulfuric acid perpetually belching off hydrogen gas is where it's at. It always has been.

 

More pics/details are in the build thread in terms of cleanup, but here's what the final damage toll seems to be:

• Driver UCA and hardware
• Driver front wheel well pinch weld
• Frame under the immediate areas discussed above
• The entire battery tray area
• An electrical wire that appears grounded to the body

 

Eek, checking my battery now..

 

I think you need to give everyone here on TW a lesson in picture editing, Excellent job! ( and sucky that it happened )

this is a lesson for all of us to keep a watchful eye on our batteries, regardless of type.

 

My battery leaked when I drove at severe (?, subjective) angles while off-roading in the CO mountains. (Truck was 3 yrs old at that time.)
I caught it the same day when I got back to civilization. Could SMELL it. Washed it all up properly (baking soda & lots of flush water).
Topped up the batt cells with distilled water and the original factory battery is still working just fine (5 years now).

...sure hope I didn't just jinks myself!

edit:
Earlier in the this thread, someone mentioned rust will start within hours. Absolutely true. I confirmed this when I worked in a plating shop back in the '80s. Also, back then (don't know if the formula has changed), WD-40 caused that test steel bar to rust BEFORE the bare, untreated portion of the steel rusted. Within 2 hours! (bare, untreated section rusted within 4 hours)

 

Sadly that is the world of modded cars. Few talk about it, but it is common.

I take hell here, but this is why I leave them stock. I’ve lost too much money modding vehicles.

Best wishes.

 

FWIW. The sealed lead-acid battery is not sealed. It is "sealed" against the owner messing about with the electrolyte levels.

The simple fact of battery charging will release hydrogen gas. This gas is allowed to vent. Some of the vented gas will have some percentage of hydrogen sulfide. When this condenses on cold surfaces......then corrosion is soon to follow.

Don't believe a battery is "sealed", it is vented. It is sealed against owners mucking about with the electrolyte level.

One last thought. The battery hold downs just need to be firmly snug. No reason to put the gorilla arm on it. You'll just crush or damage the plastic battery case.

 

Did you get the rust treated? Here’s what I use on rust before I paint it. I’m in Tigard, so if you need help PM me.

 

Imo, mod if a necessity, otherwise leave it stock. Manufactures have spent the time whats work best on a stock vehicle. Their suppose to know more than you.

 

I have not due to lack of a garage. I figured removing rust was pointless until I could also seal it semi-properly. The acid has been neutralized and removed at the very least.

If you're willing to help a clueless bro out though, I will definitely PM you to see if we can't get together and remedy this. Thanks for the offer!