I want a truck that Toyota never made

Sitting on the ground (with no truck bed on) ... I am getting around 5.25 inches of travel before hitting the bump stop. With the truck bed on... I am get around 5 inches of travel with the DJM low profile button stops and with my 2 inch All-Star solid Aluminum blocks

 

I definitely think welding it was a good decision. It looks great! I’m glad to see the updates.

I wonder how a progressive bump stop might perform in place of the low profile one? I know it would take up more space in that “travel zone” but I have superbumps up front and they barely have a gap between the LCA, there’s maybe an eighth inch if that and they still do well.

Just curious if that’s something you’ve ever thought about.

 

Excellent choice on welding the notch. I posted awhile back about my experience with my autocross truck and the DJM notch.... I ended up doing pretty much exactly what you did. Keep up the excellent work!

 

I did try a progressive bump stop before I notched the frame. I tried the SumoSprings

$223 SSR-611-40 | SumoSprings Rear for Toyota Tacoma, silver, 500 lbs.

SSR-611-40 (blue) without the mounting bracket because I was using the 2 inch lowering block. It had no travel room and was pretty rough. I cut off one layer and it probably had about 1/8 of inch of space. The picture above is after cutting one layer off the SumoSpring, it is still on jack stands with no tire on. I then cut off another layer and this freed up a bit of room and worked pretty well but I just wanted more travel and that is one of the reasons I decided to notch the frame. I have been playing around with a few difference bump stops with the DJM notch plate and the 2 inch lowering blocks. The DJM notch plate uses a 3/8 in.-16 stud for the bump stop which is a common size. Unfortunately, the SumoSprings were too wide in diameter to fit in the notch area and the stud thread was difference too. Currently, I am using a Daystar polyurethane bump stop 1 3/8 inches tall and 2 1/2 inches tall (

$17 KU09041BK 1-3/8" Tall x 2-1/2" Diameter Bump Stop

KU09041BK) (this is the black bump stop 2 pictures back) and so far.. I like this bump stop a lot because I have never bottomed out on it driving with and empty bed. I loaded a bunch of sod for a neighbor and the bed compressed down a lot with about an inch of clearance and then I hit some bumps on the way to his house it worked out great. It was enough material to absorb the energy and not slam against the frame.

 

Might want to watch the top of the pumpkin/rearend. I have seen it hit the bed before the bump stops with them all the way screwed in.

There is also a abs line there, I have seen where it messed up the line from hitting the bed.

 

The next mod I have done to the truck is swap out the rear glass. It is just a personal preference but I like the solid one piece glass much better than the 3 piece slider. I hired a glass company for this one because it is not as easy as the 1st Gen Tacoma, the window is glued in there like the front windshield. They were able to remove it without breaking the old glass but they tore up the window surround pretty bad.

 

One big down fall in switching from the Pre-Runner 6 lug chassis to the X-Runner 5 lug chassis... is the front brakes. They are poor to say the least. The Pre-runner front brakes were much better. I tried using better pads and slotted rotors with the X-runner chassis but this didn't help out much. I even upgraded the brake lines front and rear with the StopTech stainless braid lines but that didn't help much. So I have upgraded to the Stop Tech ST40 4 piston calipers with the 2 peice 340mm slotted rotors from URDUSA. Gadget is a great help there. I think this was a pretty easy install, especially since I have already replaced out the brake lines. I did choice to cut the brake dust shield by the outer tie rod end. The manual gives you the option to cut, remove, or bend the dust shield.

 

X-Runner brakes with the upgraded pads and slotted rotors

 

This is how I choice to cut the brake dust shield to avoid any rubbing... one again the instructions are not clean on this and give you the option to cut, bend, or remove.

 

I’d like them to put a 2016 Tundra into a 2006 Tundra but what can ya do?

 

I truly love these brakes. They worth every penny.. in my option. For a daily driver they are a bit much but so nice in heavy traffic with people that don't know how to drive.

 

Here is a little comparison of the brakes I took off my X-Pre-Runner and the new StopTech ones that I put on.

 

The only down side to these StopTech brakes is the brake dust... it is terrible. The X-Runner front rims are covered in dust and black in 2 days. But they ride and brake quite and stop great. I need to call Gadget back and ask him about some different pads... when I get some time.

 

I see you’ve been down this road already
I was questioning the diameter of those bigger bumps fitting into the notch space too.

Sounds like the Daystar will work out though. Air bumps would probably be nice for that setup too, if they weren’t so expensive.

 

thought U were talking Tundra Dually ............................



wasnt much suspension travel on the XRunner

true it would haul light

yet most guys did NOT have that in mind

wasnt faster than any other Taco V6

any Xtra cab could be slammed rather easily

 

Yea the stock brakes on a sport truck is crap. Single piston caliper . I too had reinforce the weak factory cam alignment tabs on my truck.

nice work bro

 

Hawk HPS worked well and fairly clean on my autox car.