TORSPD: NEVR

No Flux, just the rod. I do give a push into the puddle though. To do exactly as you said.

 

All finished, with the intercooler project. It has been rewarding to me to do some involved modding and fabricating on my truck. Not glorious by any means, but good to be finished. It also showed me how much more TLC the truck needs. Like a new grill, headlights, rust protection, welded gussets to the frame, and boxing of the frame. Sometimes, I really want to go Mad Max on the truck, with Armor and bumpers. Well see how the future plays out.



This used to be a silicone 90°. Being this way, there will be less chance of blowing the coupling. By having the silicone connector as a straight.





Needs a good scrub down. As well a a mesh for the grill. Actually, just needs a new grill. This one is delaminating.

 

Haven't done much since the intercooler installation. In the spare times that I have had for the truck, I have worked on my transient throttle fuel tuning. Always a plus when you make some progress.

Spent more time working on others' cars, and turbo boost projects for two trucks. The next being this weekend, which is quite exciting! I am quite anxious to get this beautiful 321 stainless header mounted on @BassAckwards truck, and get a few before and after videos.



The ceramic coating is compliments of Polydyn, in Houston. This is their "titanium" color, which was recommended as their best for keeping the heat in for turbo headers. I have used their black in the past with great success.

Most recently, I was able to give some TLC to the Bimmer. I have a lot of rear subframe and differential bushings waiting an appointment. I was able to see two delrin bushings into the diff, but the third was tool blocked due to needing a 14mm x 1.5 pitch tap, open up some threads for a larger bolt upgrade. I wish the axle seals on the Tacoma were as easy as the diff axle seals on the Bimmer.....seriously.



Had to cobble together a homemade press to get the rear bushings out. Thankfully I had some 2" diameter tubing scrap to help. It was a little too perfect a match but worked.

 

Good work, that press in stuff can be a real battle at times. A little ingenuity though and anything’s possible.

looking forward to this weekend! I think i have everything i need, but i am sure there will be something that i didnt think of. Im sure we can make it happen though. Hopefully having already swapped the coolant plug and oil pan makes install go more smoothly. Should be plumbing, downpipe, and midpipe that are the real time eaters.

 

I have a feeling that waiting for materials to cool, is going to eat up the most time.

Having swapped out those parts, definitely saves some work though.

Have all of the hoses for the coolant, oil feed and drain?

 

I agree, theres not much getting around the time consuming aspect of tig.

and yessir i believe so. Depending on how the vacuum routing is done, i may need a filter for the valve cover, but im gonna check and see if my old unifilter will work. I think i read in the turbo thread that i could run a piece of tubing off of that to down by the frame rail to keep the smell at bay in lieu of the filter. Was i understanding that correctly? I think it was one of your old posts i read

 

That is correct.

 

Should I go haltech?

 

I totally recommend it. The easiest and most user friendly of them all.

 

Any beginner info I need to look at? What do I need?

 

Boomslang for the adapter harness, unless you want to wire your own.

Then the WB2 CAN dual wideband adapter from Haltech, as well as which all sensors that you want to add.

I prefer at minimum the IAT and coolant sensors. From them.

 

I want me that 2500! Especially the built in e85 outlet for an ECA! That with a 7th injector on a TRD SC!!

 

Get it while it's hot!

I have so many projects going on. Phew. Need to whittle some stuff down, and get back to focusing my attention. I just want the CAN WB2 for my 2500. Wasn't available when I purchased mine.

 

Have not purchased that Haltech WB2 yet, but did make a new shifter for the truck. Years ago, on the way home from work, I had to pull off of the freeway due to a scare. The shifter was in my hand, the bottom no longer attached to the transmission. I was able to get it working well enough to make it home.

The design was a bolt through the top of an aluminum adapter, which then the shifter arm was attached to. That bolt sheared off deep below acces. Luckily I had a spare but different brand/style of shifter for the T56.

I was able to use it to get driving again, but at the sacrifice of the shifter boots, and cup holder. Until this past weekend.

Looks funky, but works flawlessly. The first iteration. (The gold and silver blocks to the top right, are the adapters of the other shifter.)



Test the fit an throw, then made a height and angle adjustment.





This was the final design, prior to paint.



I have now idea why I waited so long to fix that, so I could have a cup holder again.....

 

I also added up some gussets on the aluminum portion of my exhaust. Certain areas are prone to additional stresses and kept cracking. Just need to bite the bullet and make it out of titanium.
This was late February. Used the opportunity to play with my new ESAB 205ic welder. Just get a feel of it with its AC control for aluminum.












Ha. That reminds me. Still need to add a support rod to the single one.

 

Shortened the shifter arm, and man it is nice having this back to a state or "normal".



Need to figure out a solution for rescuing the plastic that is missing from the photo. As in keeping it removable. A necessity, a in it allows easier access to the T56 shifter hardware.

@Lucario Runner gifted me this brace, a few years ago. After helping him install the new hangers from Archive Garage(?). Been a long time coming. Perfect opportunity to spray the frame with some CorrosionX HD. Got to protect this aging beauty.



Going to suck when it comes time to weld in the DMZ frame box kit, as it will all need to be cleaned well. Still worthy for the time being, in my mind though.

 

Got some turbo exhaust work to do on my truck. Making a little change in the near future. Also need to make another 2TR turbo header.

 

May we ask for who? And one more stupid question, I wonder how close this kit would be to fitting a 2TR. I was told the manifold on my supercharger kit was from the 3RZ supercharger kit… (I think?) All I remember is they said the manifold was modified from another supercharger kit they already had.

https://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Turbo-Kit-Low-Boost-3RZ-p/1071017.htm

Sorry my memory is not the best.

 

There is a difference in the flanges which mate to the head. Between the 2/3RZ and 2TR.

I don't quite understand the last sentence of yours.

 

JD Fab has the cad files at the laser shop for a new full frame plate kit and Harry is designing a new DS carrier cross member and V or X brace as well