Long Travel BS Thread

Yes Sir that's the one. 4:56s and an ARB. Todd is a really good dude, he helped me quite a bit with getting that deal done. Has helped w lots of knowledge too.
T4R aint what it used to be. Got watered down w posers and yupsters. Still a few left though.

 

There's really smart 3rd gen guys over on t4r.

 

@Dalandser Very true.I was looking for a 3rd gen when I found a deal on my 5th gen, so I missed that era. Some of the best mod guys came from and still own 3rds and 1st gen Tacos. My Buddy back in 79' when we were in high school had one of the first models of late 70s 4X4 pickups sold here in the states, wanted a Toyota 4X4 ever since, just could never swing it until 2014. I give T4R a bad rap because of the 5th gen crowd, but there is still a wealth of knowledgeable people over there.

 

It was fairly common for the passenger side to break on 4Runners, I gusseted to mine many moons ago as others had done. Never seen a driver side break though.

 

How well did that work with them being cast?

 

Fine so far, I did this shortly after I got my welder 8 or so years ago, so my welding skills were definitely not and good as they are now, and its still holding up. I did not preheat or cool properly though, which I would if I did it again like I do on spindles.

 

How are folks doing fuel cells for second gen tacos? Not sure how everything plumbs and wires up.

 

I just mounted mine with 1x2 right behind the axle under the bed, haven’t finished the fuel fill stuff yet since it’s gonna be part of the chase rack. It’s a jeepspeed 32 gallon tank. Just saw Harry talking about the pump on his thread but other than a fuel pump resistor that’s part of the circuit I don’t see why you couldn’t run a regular in tank or out of tank pump. Also jd does have that fuel cell kit for sale as well.

 

Trash quality because I’m screenshotting an IG story but he made new diff mounts out of four layers of 1/4” plate plug welded together and blended. Came out pretty decent.

 

I’m in the process of setting up links and am running two hypothetical scenarios on the second gen taco. More interested in slow crawl, bombing some fire roads. No longer a DD, so offroad takes priority. These are rough figures and I’m just trying to get a grasp on the effects of what I’m manipulating. Mainly the trade offs of longer links. Any feedback would be helpful.

First is mounting close to the carrier bearing crossmember inside the frame rails-


Second is mounting near the crossmember directly behind that, still inside the frame rails-

 

@Basikbiker or hit him up on IG

 

If you're rock crawling you'll want the lower link mounts at the center line of the axle tube for clearance.

Depending on who you ask you're going to get different answers, but most folks would probably recommend somewhere around 50-100% anti squat for a general use off-road set up. 140% is probably going to feel like shit.

Longer links bend easier too, I don't see many people use longer than 48....except cockslayer and I don't think I've heard anything good about them. Might be some circumstances out there where longer links are practical, I've just not seen them.

 

The only hesitation I had about mounting the lower links to the face was less resistance to the moment about the axis that follows the axle tube. Trade off being less ground clearance. The long links were also a concern as I didn’t see many over 48” either. Since they will be tucked up inside the frame rails I felt better about it and beefier links could always be added, but that’s why I wanted to crunch the numbers for shorter ones. Jake at BK recommended around 150% anti squat in one of his videos to help push down on the rear to gain traction. That may only apply to high speed high torque scenarios though.

 

That guy is building rock bouncers, some of his recommendations aren't going to apply.

Crawlpedia isn't the only place I've seen these recommendations. Also, as far as I understand the higher the anti squat the rougher the ride, and can't be tuned out with shocks since it's built into the link design.

I'm not an expert on this stuff, I'm just regurgitating what I've read over the last year and knowledge from a couple buddies that have linked their Toyotas while getting ready to link my own.

 

Yeah that’s the trade off with the short, high links- more anti squat. Since I’m not hauling ass I think a little on the high end is fine and may be more desirable crawling and keeping more traction on the rear. Maybe there’s a happy medium in between those two scenarios? I’ll crunch more numbers.

 

Longer links help offset bad geometry. Mine ended up around 42 inches and Although I’ve hit them several times, no bends yet.

I would focus more on where things fit rather than playing with the calculator before hand. I tried to use the calculator but ultimately I ditched it and put stuff where it fit and cycled to check and I have no bad handling on or offroad. I wanted certain things (6+ inches of uptravel and below 130 in wb) so I sacrifice some geometry to obtain those and made up for it in other places.

 

So longer the links the better...my upper are right behind the carrier bearing crossmember.

What makes the biggest difference in handling is the anti-squat. 100% means the suspension does nothing when torque is applied...fast trucks have a lower value which makes the rear sit down when they accelerate. Mines about 59% and works really well for me. But if your never gunna try to haul ass in the desert I'd go higher value in the 80% range, when you go above 100% the rear rises when you give it gas which helps going up rocks and obstacles, but will handle worse through high speed whoops...depends on what ya wanna do...personally a little squat makes for a better ride overall and works good all around unless your a hard-core rock guy

 

Those were my thoughts as well. I never go over 35 on a fire road. Too many curves and blind spots here. It’s mostly technical crawling stuff and small hill climbs. Clearance is important. I may see what the anti squat is with the links halfway between those two crossmembers, but I think the carrier bearing area is probably the way to go. Everything tucks up nicely.

 

And I'd raise your axle side lower link pivots to centerline in front of the axle for most clearance...what I did with mine

 

Yeah I’m seeing that now, too. May try to come off of them from the side a little lower than center line so I can get a little rigidity from it in higher torque situations if that makes sense.