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Cruise No Longer Works

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Rickochet, Jan 6, 2022.

  1. Jan 6, 2022 at 12:34 AM
    #1
    Rickochet

    Rickochet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Added VS Wipers, Cruise Control, DRL, Undercover SE Bed Cover
    Shortly after buying my 2009 Access I had cruise installed using a Rostra kit. All of the wiring was there and it was a simple installation. While driving yesterday the cruise light would not come on and cruise would not work. Never a problem before. I can't find any info on which fuse it might be associated with. Other searches indicate that it might be the cruise switch or clock spring coil. Any other suggestions on what to check would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Rick
     
  2. Jan 6, 2022 at 12:38 AM
    #2
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    You added cruise control with an aftermarket kit?

    If it's factory the first thing I would check would be the pedal cushion pads for the brake and or clutch up switch.
     
  3. Jan 6, 2022 at 12:46 AM
    #3
    Rickochet

    Rickochet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Added VS Wipers, Cruise Control, DRL, Undercover SE Bed Cover
    Yes, the kit by Rostra is an after market kit and has worked with no issues for 12 years. My Taco is the 2.7L automatic with 56k miles and the only thing I have had to do to it is replace one turn signal bulb. I really haven't had a chance to check the truck out but was wondering if the cruise might be tied into a circuit and something else might be out as well.
     
  4. Jan 6, 2022 at 1:42 AM
    #4
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Aftermarket, good luck.

    I would try contacting the manufacturer, but with it being aftermarket there's absolutely no telling what could be going on in there. Unless there happens to be someone on here that has experience installing or using that same kit, but I've never even heard of it or that company.

    I would still at least look up under your pedals and see if there's an aftermarket switch or something there but who knows?

    :notsure:
     
  5. Jan 6, 2022 at 2:02 AM
    #5
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    As stated If I were going to bet I would say it is the switch on the brake pedal or the Spiral Cable behind the steering wheel airbag.

    The Spiral cable failure on the Tacoma is a common item.

    Both are relatively easy and cheap fixes.
     
    Hardscrabble likes this.
  6. Jan 6, 2022 at 2:46 AM
    #6
    super_white

    super_white Well-Known Member

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    Here's the link to the install guide, with troubleshooting on page 11. Maybe one of the t-taps is loose?
    https://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-1836_Form5188F.pdf
     
  7. Jan 6, 2022 at 5:19 AM
    #7
    Rickochet

    Rickochet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Added VS Wipers, Cruise Control, DRL, Undercover SE Bed Cover
    I was one of the fortunate ones and my truck was pre-wired all the way from the ECM to to wheel. All they had to do was connect the switch to the OEM connectors. Thanks for the link.
     
    super_white[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jan 6, 2022 at 6:02 AM
    #8
    tak1313

    tak1313 Well-Known Member

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    First thing to eliminate is the switch & clock spring. It's easy enough to get to the connector behind the steering pad and under the steering column. First, honk your horn. If it works, there is still the possibility that other lines in the clock spring went bad. Check continuity from the two pins for the the cruise to the two pins in the lower connector that feeds the ECM. If either is out, then you need a new clock spring (which I assume is the original).

    If it's OK, check the two wires from the lower connector to the ECM. If they're ok, then go on to the switches as JimmyH says.

    When I installed my non-Rostra kit, which also needed the wires from the 8 pin connector to the ECM (being a 2013), it initially did not work. My horn worked fine, but after measuring the continuity between the input pins at the steering pad to the 8 pin output, it was a no go. Replaced the clock spring and everything was fine. Examination of the clock spring cable showed the conductors for both pins of the cruise were worn through but the conductor for the horn was fine. It was the original factory clock spring.

    Another, little more remote possibility is a faulty cruise switch, but that's easily tested when you have the steering pad/column plastic off. With the switch disconnected, you just hook up meter to the two wires and measure for simple continuity when you press the button, and various resistance measurements as you move the switch to different positions (I don't know what the ohms should be off hand, but it's in the repair manual). If it IS the switch, it's likely the main button itself because your cruise isn't activating at all (from what I understand). That should just show simple continuity between the wires when you press it.
     
    Jimmyh and Rickochet[OP] like this.

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