What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

lol, me too

 

Aaaaaaaaand we've just invented the Maestro...

 

Pretty much, but since we dont need any other canbus things, just 4 signals we can make a smaller version that only cuts into a single wire.

On a related note, can you just use a maestro on the factory radio to reprogram the buttons? or is the maestro not adjustable?

 

I just called a shop to find out (since it's way easier than re-soldering a PCB...)

No. The Maestro is only compatible outputting to aftermarket head units.

Maybe Daveesa or PuppyPunter has enough big brainz to tinker up some kind of inline something-or-other.

 

So, one analog in and four digital outs to a small breadboard and 4 tiny 12v relays would do it. Hell, I could even use the same Arduino I'm planning on installing to fix the cruise control since I've got plenty of IO pins.

I like the way you think.

 

Exactly, a arduino has so many input/output lanes that you could program several things to the same board.

First thing we would need to find out the output signal from the switch. Is up 1 pulse, down 2 pulses, left 3 pulses, right 4 pulses? or is it run on a voltage output (up 2v, down 3v, left 4v, right 5v) or something like that.
Once we have what the signal that switch is outputting, then we just swap it with another value inside the arduino

function volume (pulse) {
if (pulse == 1) {
output = 3
};
return output;
}

This would result in pushing up sending out a signal for left. You can use a single input and single output on the arduino

 

Definitely going to be resistance, not pulses. So my thought whatever voltage the input pin sees, it outputs to a digital pin to a 12v relay (since it's 5v out max) that is behind an appropriate resistor to get the correct voltage down the line. Unfortunately I can't think of a way to do it without 4 relays and 3 resistors. Then just convince @MESO to make a new button cap with the corrected icon locations.

 

If I had to guess it’s the voltage changing in your example above. You should start a build thread so I can follow along and buy your gizmo when it’s done

 

I been on the fence about this mod. Other’s have said, there wasn’t much of a difference. I guess I’ll just have to try it. I have an aftermarket HU so I might “hear” some benefits…

 

My 2008 had a similar issue so they never learned that the tweeters sucked I guess. Always had to have treble wide open and bass about halfway. I do not listen to music enough to warrant the replacement though. My 2020 OR is the same way, got to crank the treble all the way up to hear half of what you should.

 

Installed LP led's and charcoal air filter removal.

 

Installed license plate glare covers and also got my TW calendar today

 

Yes to both, have to cut bedsides an the bumper mounts to the OE hitch points but has its own hitch built in.

 

34 lbs Much stiffer sidewall than the S rated Duratrac and the OE S-rated tires that I replaced. I've worked in dealership parts for almost 37 years, mostly as a parts manager. I do know a thing or two about tires since we sell them every day and carry over 280 new tires in stock. I've had many required training courses on tires from Chevy, Honda, and Toyota over the years. It is absolutely the tire. On an OR or PRO it wouldn't be quite as noticeable because the shocks are softer for off-road comfort and handling. My Sport has the stiffer suspension and transfers that impact of the harder tire to the vehicle.

 

My painter in our body shop offered to paint mine inferno for nothing to match. I just have to disassemble everything and remove the letters to do it. I'm waiting for spring so I can work on it without freezing.

 

Me looking over from another location within the same boat:

 

Yeah, I need to figure out where I can paint mine. Im thinking in my unfinished basement bathroom with the fan on, but tonight I am going to clean them with rubbing alcohol and put them on a sheet of cardboard to make painting easier. Hoping for painting tomorrow.

Today it was 37 degrees out, yesterday was -11.... who knows what tomorrow will bring.

 

You guys are over complicating this.
What this looks like as someone else pointed out is called multiplex. In short that means you have one wire that is sending a signal to a unit that is reading the different resistances (most likely referenced to ground). Each button is assigned a resistor with a specific resistance.
If the resistors were laid out differently it would possibly be as easy as swapping the 4 resistors.
UNFORTUNATELY they are in a series so some buttons will get 2 to 3 resistors in series to make up the value.
The way to pull this off would be to cut the traces on the board and make small jumper wires.
You can do everything with the exception of the seek up on the bottom of the board.
That one will have to be cut on the top side and jumped from there.
If you are good with a soldering iron and circuit boards it shouldn't take you more than 30 minutes.

Then it is just a matter of custom buttons (or just removing the writing with goo gone or something that is strong enough to remove it but not enough to crap up the plastic).

Have fun. It can be done.

That said, I agree that it should have been laid out with seek Left and Right, but I have a much bigger list of project priorities before this one.....

 

LOL! I believe that's the point we are at.