HP Tuners for 2005-2015

Under Help>About, it shows it as the latest version. Was your issue intermittent?

 

It hasn’t happened since and was happening to every file I tried to open. I just lost track there was a new Beta version. May be a help ticket required issue for yours.

 

Yeah, it's definitely a crappy "gotcha" that gets folks more often than I'd like to see.

I don't have a walk-though on it, but the main take aways here are this:

1: You need a replacement ECU, one without a TSB update. And have it VIN matched to your truck's VIN.
2: If you want to use your BD tuner, the BD tuner will update the replacement ECU with the TRD S/C Calibration ID, however BD uses a unique tune that is different than the Factory Toyota TRD S/C Calibration. But this will get your ECU "converted" to the TRD S/C Calibration ID.
3: You can use your MPVI2 to "read" the BD converted ECU and it'll spit you out a virtual read of the Factory Toyota TRD S/C Calibration.
4: If you write the "read" file above, you'll effectively remove the BD tune and convert the truck to the Factory Toyota TRD S/C Tune. This will cost you 4 credits to write that file (or a modified version of it) back to the ECU.

I can supply you a ECU that has the TRD S/C Calibration and VIN programmed to match your truck. You will not need the BD tuner at that point. I can supply one ready to go for $300 shipped to your door for a 2015 Auto.

 

What is the best way to contact you to make this happen? If I purchase a new ECU from you; I'm assuming I would still need to unlock it with HP Tuners if I want to tune it in the future (because its set to my HP account)? Thank you for your help.

Oh, and I was an early addopter of HP for the Tacoma after using it in my Suburban. The GM ECU's (at least mine is this way) has preloaded base tunes for the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, 6.2, 454, and the Duramax and presets for boosted applications. I figured the Tacoma's ECU woud have the peramiters for the supercharger. Liive and learn.

 

You're welcome to PM me or send me an email at justdsm @ hotmail . com and I can work with you directly. If it's easier we can discuss over the phone. Just email me a good date/time to contact you and I'll be happy to fill you in on the details.

No matter which way you go, HPTuners is going to require you to relicense your setup as you'll be changing the Calibration ID number. Anytime you change device, Calibration ID, or VIN - you have to relicense the setup.

No pre-made/loaded tunes for the Tacoma unfortunately. They've all got to be built from scratch.

 

I just sent you an email to the address you gave. Thanks!

 

I responded to your DM last night and sent you another one. Not being pushy; just making sure the message got through. Thank you.

 

I've been awaiting response as well. He must be on vacation. Hope he comes back!

Anyone tried to calibrate the throttle/pedal position? There is process described for when the battery has been disconnected for a certain amount of time.
I tried, not sure if I could tell a difference. I think it was a Tacomaholic vid. Not sure if he know what he's talking bout.

Also, reading over my first set of logs. Running stock ECU w/UCON. The UCON "Spoofs" the signals to the ECU to manipulate certain parameters (layman's terms). I see discrepancies with the Throttle position and correlating with the pedal position. Throttle maxes out at just over 80%, while the pedal is at 60%. Maybe this is the interpretation from the UCON? Also looks like my injectors are maxed out; TRD 455cc, 2.825" pulley, intake, open exhaust, hit 8.75lbs today! Wicked cold, ~900' elevation. Again, UCON? The MAF reports 4.0V or 4.55V. What is the typical voltage range on these? Is this just a lack of resolution that can be read?

 

Hi, I hope I can help you out. I do not have an experience with the UCON ECU, but I have a decent amount of experience HPT on this platform an GM LS engines.

Anyway, the throttle position is a set parameter in the ECU. In HPT editor, it's found under the ENGINE main tab, and then the "Airflow/Electric throttle" menu. It has a chart for reverse through 6th gear. Yes we have 5 speeds, but its set up for the 761E tranny too. The "accelerator pedal position" chart goes from zero degrees up to 56.5 degrees; and this translates to the throttle angle from zero through 86 degrees. Before you change any of these numbers, read the waring that pops up on the bottom of the menu; it will tell you, "WARNING, modify this table at your own risk!!!" And if you do modify the tables; you have (at least this has been my experience) change all of them to the same values; otherwise it wont flash the ECU. I modified my settings and I didn't update 6th gear and it would not send the flash; I copied everything over to that table, and it worked like normal. And the factory setting is absolutely gutless and slow to respond.

When it comes to your injectors being maxed out; are you using a wideband O2 sensor to read your actual Air Fuel Ratio (AFR)? If not, then I would suggest having one installed first before going any further; especially with a forced induction system. I just installed my supercharger recently and my AFR at WOT was 8.8-9.2! That is richer than Bill Gates and my injectors were at 96.6% duty cycle at 5.3psi at 2400ish feet above sea level, stock (for now) exhaust, Safari snorkel and AFE intake. My assumption is that Toyota set this tune up like this to keep owners from running to lean and burring up the engine. Granted, you are running more boost at a different altitude, so you may be running out of injector headroom; but without a wideband to tell you the actual AFR; you are just asking for trouble.

For your MAF question; that's a little more tricky. The MAF goes up to 5.00v but that doesn't mean it will actually get that high. The airflow number that runs with the MAF voltage is what matters. The factory setting for airflow at 4.06v is 1348.919lb/h and at 4.53 it's 1891.648lb/h. If you are trying to dial in your MAF, the lb/h number is what you would adjust based off of a MAF histogram from the HPT scanner/data logger.

Hope this helped.

 

Yes, I do have an AFR gauge. I do run rich. Going down to 11 often. Runs rich even before boost, still in vacuum. I have not attempted any tuning myself, just logging the current state. I have a TRD flashed ECU to swap and removal of UCON, once the health check is complete. Then I'll try a tune from Justin with HPTuners. After that I will install the 2.6" pulley and my 650cc FIC injectors.
I do have slight suspicion that my Hi FLow cat is failing, causing increased boost. But hard to confirm it is not just the cold temps yet. I had the Twisted Steel headers from aFe that blew out both cats, as many others with boost had done. Switched to URD EL headers and installed a cat further down in the cat back section that I built out of 3" tubing.

 

Should that be for all models? Mine only has the Limiter option with Limit by Airflow, no option for Tire size.

‘15 Tacoma Sport 4x4

 

You're a manual trans I'd gather then. Manuals will not have those fields.

 

Yeah that’s correct. Would you recommend another way to calibrate for larger tires?

 

The speedo correction must be done external to the ECU (despite what I might have stated early on). The speedo in the cluster is controlled via CAN-BUS via the ABS ECU, not the ECU itself. So you need to use one of the aftermarket controllers that intercept/modify the CAN-BUS signal to the cluster. I'm not sure who has them for 2nd Gen's but I believe they can be had from Hypertech or others. Perhaps someone with more experience can chime in on those devices.

 

Hypertech and Rough Country make them. One thing to note when I started to install mine if you go this route.

Download the software then apply the parameters. Whatever adjustment you use (stock tire to new tire size) or (stock gearing to new gearing), double check with GPS then adjust accordingly. My Hypertech won't let me just tweak the final piggyback adjustment figure. I had to measure tire size then continue to modify the tire size in tenths of inch to get the calibration spot on with GPS on long straight highway (yes, I am OCD, no, the VA does not consider it a valid claim in retirement).

Biggest thing to note is when you upload the data to the device, it will maintain that information for adjustment. Once you use the computer to check the ratio, it deletes the current setting and you must upload again to retain your desired settings. This was maddening since I didn't realize simply reading would erase it. Keep the USB plug in handy after install so you don't have to tear out your dash again to access it. I have never had problems except when I lost my alternator and had to plug back in to recalibrate.

 

About to finish my 2006 tundra build, its has pretty much a Tacoma drivetrain with a 4.0 v6 and a auto so figured you guys would know what's up. The truck has a fuel cell with none of the evap system, can this be tuned out? I'm running 6.33 10" gears in a 9inch with 37", I'm sure all my shift points will need to be adjusted otherwise I'm afraid the trans will just shift itself to death every time I hit the throttle, is this possible? Also the speed limiter might engage at like 65 mph due to the gearing, that's not going to be fun if I cant tune that out also. Future plan is to run a 6 speed, possible to tune out the auto stuff in the computer? Are power gains possible without a supercharger? Thanks for any info! will probably be searching for someone in socal to tune it within a couple months.

 

@JustDSM this looks like a fun project you don’t see everyday. @Bajayota2085 im sure he can help you.

 

Take out that auto trans already

 

My funny-o-meter was ringing off when I read the word "VA." And no, my funny-o-meter is not my disability rated Tinnitus.

 

Once I get the truck running that's high on the priority. Figured it's going to cost about 2k