Any woodworkers?

Worked a half day today and then got a little shop time in to work on my Bettys loom. I always enjoy anything in my shop.
I countersunk the holes I drilled on the bottom for some flathead screws.

So now its all put together with wing nuts and sits flat. It can be taken apart for storage this way.

I set the depth stop on the drill press so I don't drill all the way through for the pins.

There's a lot of 3/16" holes to drill. The ash is so hard the drill bit deflects and follows the grain.

A gazillion holes drilled and the corners marked for rounding over on the disc sander.

I sanded to 150 grit and broke all the edges by hand.

After rounding the corners I sanded them to 150 grit.

8d galvanized finish nails for the pins. They are a little long but I didn't want to take the time to cut them all down, there's a lot of them.

Tap tap tap tap, voila! Pins done.

 

One hole on each corner is left open for an eye screw.

The eye screw is for a 3/16 rod to pass through.

This is how the rods goes in.

Then I cut the rods to length. And I did cut one wrong so I have to get another one tomorrow, damn.

My multi tool works great for stuff like this, rounding the edges and de burring.

After cutting and bending one end for a handle on the rod, it also acts as a stop.

So tomorrow I'll pick up another rod to replace the one I screwed up and get a rattle can of water-based poly for some finish.

 

They have some at Home Depot, I just didn't grab them because they weren't the cheapest thing I saw

 

Used to see these all the time, now i guess they are antiques

 

You can buy the metal part at all the home improvement stores for 8 ish bucks I think.. then you add your own 2x4s

 

I havent looked but they are nice

 

I like the better stability of the flat 2x4s vs on edge ones

 

$23 FULTON Corporation 400SHB Steel Sawhorse Bracket, 2 Pack (Total 4 Count)

https://www.amazon.com/FULTON-Corpo...efix=folding+sawhorse+brackets,aps,221&sr=8-3

 

So spar is taking forever to dry; we were working in the garage; I have no clue what temp it was in there, but I put a coat on 6 hours ago and it had barely dried; so I moved it inside where its gotta be like 80 degrees in the basement. I was hoping to have this done tomorrow but there's no way that's going to happen now.

I have one coat on the underside of the desks and it has some little bumps/particles in it, should I sand and do another layer? or simply do another layer?

 

It never hurts to sand the bumps down first.

 

@916carl different hinges for your next project


https://www.instagram.com/feldthousefamilywoodworks/reel/CZFC3B9Be9B/

 

Thanks for the link. I may give them a try on my next box.I've already drilled the holes for the barrel hinges so I'm in it now. Holy crap, the tolerances are so narrow it's crazy. With my digital calipers I see 3.87mm throws everything off when it needs to be 4mm. I'm having to make the holes larger so there's play. When I get it all straight I'm going to wedge the barrels in place with tooth picks, put in a little epoxy as a "spot weld", remove toothpicks and finish with more epoxy.

 

A little DNA rubbed on to check for sanding marks gives it some color and hint at what it will look like.

 

Yeah man, I want to try barrel hinges too.

Original plan was to re-saw red cedar to .25 and line the box sticking up .75 then use slip fit for the lid.

Then I went off down this hinge idea, and just set it aside until I can decide.

I like your design man.

 

I'll chime in on all the sawhorse talk. I have a pair of these and I really like them due to their adjustable height. Makes it easy for me as I am tall, they have put up with some good abuse.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...lastic-Saw-Horse-2-500-lb-Capacity/1000578401

 

Have you used those side rail hinges before? I don't have a router, so I'd need to chisel out the mortice. I would us a forstner or brad point bit on my drill press with the stop set at the thickness of the hinge, then go back with a chisel and get the remainder. Think that is doable? Not sure if those hinges are as finicky to install as barrel hinges.

Thanks! The moment I saw that figure/knot I knew what I wanted to do with it. I saw a box where the builder did the barrel shape top and what it did to the grain pattern (wasn't walnut though).

There are several size barrel hinges. The 8mm one I'm using are as large as you can go with 1/2 material. In fact, when I re-sawed the 3/4 for this I actually left it around 5/8. Gave me some room for sanding and a bit more room for the hinge, plus my table saw only cuts up to 2 1/2 inches, so the piece is always a little uneven. It works out that the thin leftover slice is perfect for the floating bottom.

For all you guys with experience in woodworking - don't let my experience with barrel hinges throw you. I'm new to finish work and it may be easier for you.

 

Actually I have not. The first time I saw them was on IG and immediately thought of your project. And yes, there's always more than one way to do things and get similar results