3rd Gen DC component installation question

I spec'd out replacement speakers from Crutchfield with an advisor who recommended going components instead of a seperate woofer and tweeter. They included the wiring harness as well for stock wiring so i was confused how the tweeter would route back to the crossover itself.

If i am understanding correctly though, stock tweeter wiring can't be used with a component set because you would need to split off the wiring in the dash for the tweeter for that to be remotely possible.

Is this correct? So my option would be to try and find the wiring (no chance) or just run new wiring from the tweeter down to the crossover? Would the woofer carry enough power to be able to run that without having to re-run the entire thing?

 

Components are a separate woofer and tweeter connected by a crossover. I say that because I’m confused a little by your description. Anyways, probably the best way is to use the woofer wiring, connect that to the crossover, then run the wiring to the woofer, and have some 16ga, go through the door boot, using a wire tie, and run that wire to the tweeter. Door boot pops out, then just reseat it. You are correct, you cannot use the tweeter wiring in the dash, they are 2 separate full range signals, you only need the one from the crossover. As for power, it will get evenly distributed through the crossover.

 

Apologize for lack of clarity on it. To make sure i understand:

- Door woofer
- Remove the adapter on the wiring to the HU, and connect that to the input on the crossover.
- Tweeter
- Run new wiring from the crossover (door install the crossover) and then connect up.
- Rear Doors
- Use existing audio and adapters from Crutchfield.

Makes me think separate tweeters/ mid range woofers may have been easier. I know am debating if I just want to go all the way and run a new amp.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Looks like you have it. Don’t worry, for the most part my reading comprehension is garbage.

 

The door woofer gets its signal from the connector at the tweeter. You can’t use the woofer wires as your crossover input signal unless you leave the tweeter connected.

 

So the tweeter wiring needs to be the input? In that I plug the tweeter adapter into the wiring harness, run that to the input, then run new wire up to the new tweeter?

 

Yeah. The 4 Pin connector at the tweeter has the speaker out from the radio on two pins, and the other two pins are the speaker out to the door woofers. They parallel in the connector on the tweeter.

If you have a passive crossover, you would use the input pair to feed signal to the crossover. How you do it from there is up to you. You can feed the LF out back into the other pair for the woofer and run a new wire for HF out to the tweeter, or just run a new wire for both.

 

So this is the factory wiring to the tweeter. Which of these two are the power from the head unit that I need to plug the crossover into, and which two run to the woofer that I need to connect to the other end of the crossover? I have an adapter that plugs directly into this connection but no way to add the crossover that way. And make sure I'm clear I'll need to cut all four of these wires and splice them into the crossover input and out correct?

 

NO! Don’t cut! The adapter that you have plugs into that. That feeds the full-range signal to the input of the crossover. Crossover outputs go to proper speaker.

 

Ok so plug in the adaptor like here? The 2 wires coming off will conect into the crossover. From the crossover connect the tweeter and woofer?

 

Yes. Crossover should have 3 pairs of wires coming out, that or a row of screw terminals to put the wire under and tighten down.

One will be labelled “Input”. One labelled “tweeter”. One labelled “woofer”.

 

Got it thanks. I talked to crutchfield and got it hooked up to the tweeter only. The woofer out from the crossover isn't hooked up so it's getting full range input although I bought a component speaker setup. If I would have known this was how it would have to be, I would have bought a coax speaker for the doors and separate tweeters and saved a few dollars and also had tweeters in the doors. Oh well. Everything appears to be working right so thanks. Next endeavor is to get a 5 channel amp and sub installed in this thing.

 

Nice!

Just FYI, two tweeters would have been awful at mid to high volume. Very “shouty”. You made the right choice.

 

What I did with my components and Crutchfields harness.

 

How did you fish the wire to the door speaker? Right now the door speakers getting full range but I'd like to hook it up to the crossover but I don't know how to get the wire down to the sub since the Tweeter and crossover are in the dash.

 

I used the factory wires and Crutchfields harness made the doors all plug and play. What I learned was the oem male tweeter harness has 2 sets of wires into the tweeter which feeds (in) the tweeter and the other 2 wires feed (out) to the doors. So when you go components you now use the old tweeter in feed as your crossover Input. Then the 2 sets of wires out of your crossover now feed your tweeters directly (1) and the 2nd set goes back to your oem tweeter harness to feed your doors, if using factory wiring. Look closely at my pic. I had the same tweeter harness as you. Here is what I did with Crutchfields tweeter harness to make it all oem plug and play. Have to cut the loops (see in+ and in- on tape) as they will now feed your crossovers input. The red tape is just to remind me that white wire was positive wire that went back to feed my mids. Hope this helps man. Cheers Al

 

Ok so the two wires that loop back around are the two for the woofer correct? Do I need to splice one end into the crossover to get the woofer connected? Which end or does it matter? I was thinking I had to get the crossover in after the Tweeter which is why I didn't know how I was going to do it but if I can use one of those in pic 10 above that loop back I can get that spliced if I know which side.

 

Nevermind I see now! I need to cut the wire that is doubled up where the Tweeter is because I don't have to loop them anymore with the crossover. So there will only be 4 wires going into the Tweeter harness, not 6 like there are now. Dude your a lifesaver. I just did all the sound deadening (pictured) and this will have everything exactly the way I want it if it works and I don't burn down my truck lol

 

Sorry for the late reply back Chris, but yes you got it, that's why I sent ya the pic. Cutting the loops where they are doubled, so you should have 4 wires to work with now, one for each pin. A set to the crossover IN (cut loops now 2 & 4), and a return set (1 & 3) from your crossover mids OUT in order to feed your oem wires to the doors. Crutchfeilds harness just had me scratching my head wondering how the heck is this going to work!!! Taco Tunz has the perfect tweeter harness with no loops bs. But I made the Crutchfields one work.

But perfect man, and the doors look good! Glad to aid in not seeing a new truck burn to the ground lol. Been in jams myself, there were guys on here that help me out too. Ya gotta pay it forward. I'm sound deadening in the spring, to dam cold here right now. Cheers Al