Longer wheel studs

thanks. the ones i have come from @05Taco4x4 , which have been in for about 13k miles and have been good so far. my understanding has been he uses exclusively Toyota parts.

my discrepancy is 13.2 to 12.5mm.

 

He might be using the Toyota oem koyo bearings and seals, which are the most important parts, but sourcing an aftermarket body and hub. Mine were all koyo and oem seals, installed in a Dorman hub by a T4R forum member. They have been working great, just tripped me up with the different knurl size.

 

thanks again. i asked him but no reply yet.

aside from what you mentioned in that thread, is there any particular designation you found for predicting which part will fit? i have this one from the thread mentioned earlier.
Dorman Part No. 610-463

 

I tried to use the Matrix studs and they wouldn't fit. Check your knurl diameter and see if this Dorman 610-376 made for a Ford will work. I've used them for well over 10k miles w some pretty good abuse mixed in there as well.

 

They are 6mm shorter than the Matrix studs though. But they worked for my 1.25" wheel spacers.

 

I don't think you're out of restricted airspace ceiling flying your plane so low sir.

 

we're still looking around but this is a good starting point. thanks. we're closing it down for the weekend and looks like i won't be able to solve this until next week. daily driver problems, ugh.

 

Random question, what pole are you using for that flag? Been looking for one just like that.

live been putting off these wheel studs but I think it might be time to do it.

 

so, yeah, this has gotten fun. DD problems.

the studs pulled from the current hubs with the knurls crushed already are measuring about 12.89mm knurl diameter. so now i'm guesstimating how much the knurls crush since i don't have that spec. the guy who sold me the hubs said studs from a 2010 Hummer H3 fit for him, and those are 12.8 uncrushed knurl diameter on a 12.5 bore. so apparently we're dealing with different bore sizes from that suggestion, but still that's a 0.3mm discrepancy and is probably a good starting point. so i'm looking for M12x1.50 studs close to 60mm length and knurl diameter range probably 13.0-13.2mm... ? i've already told them to just start getting options delivered to try stuff.

 

Aww man, yea this is a damn PIA rabbitt hole. I looked at specs for 2 dozen studs on Dormans site. Took me half a day.
Hope it works out quick for you.

 

Why not redrill the hubs to the correct spec?

 

that is literally my last option. i would be more comfortable replacing the hubs. not the kind of machining with wiggle room.

 

despite my aversion to this, i just spoke with my shop and they are now pushing me to do this. the issue they are having is the non-knurled shoulder of all these studs also has a different diameter and it's making the exact fitment nearly impossible without all these stud options in hand to try. one of the guys at this shop has been in track/race cars for years (he used to work on my old R32 back at another shop some years ago) and he is wanting to machine the bores and use the ARP studs that are recommended around here (

$43 ARP 100-7715 ARP 1007715 Wheel Stud Kit for Lexus

ARP 100-7715). so i guess this is about to happen and they are talking me down about it.

 

If they have the right tools, should be an easy and accurate job, hopefully it works out for you.

 

Probably the best option. I didnt have the time to find a good shop I can trust, or I'd have done that myself. ARP aint cheap, but for good reason. Wish I had the room for a good drill press.

 

You made me curious, I am actually in the middle of a front end rebuild and am replacing all of my studs with ARPs, so I went out and knocked one (I only have one on hand currently) into the hub, and it went in as expected. Then I went to measure the hub to find out my caliper's battery is dead, I will take some measurement of the studs that came out and the hub once I get it up and running.

 

that was the requirement. back in the track days he said they would use a hand drill and bit and bore out the holes with the hub still mounted in place. i said no f'ing way, mill it or forget it. so i'm hoping that's what's happening over there right now.

 

SMDH....That could potentially be a disaster even just using a hand drill on a work bench, let alone "still on the vehicle".
Bits in this size range aren't regularly stocked at your local Hardware store either and average $15 to $30 a piece.
They have a 1/2" shank, which makes it even more difficult to control a large enough variable speed hand drill at slow enough rpms, and still be accurate.
I'm sure it's been done over the years, but to drill 24 studs still mounted like that? And then pull the studs into the hub so they sit true? UMMM Okay.

 

they described it to me as a track-day-only kind of thing. that tech has done a lot in the racing world and he's real with his skills, and i know a lot of what he's built. this was one of those, "well we can always do like we did at the track to keep racing..." but i don't think he would seriously do that on a customer's street vehicle. at least i hope not!