Fitting 35's on 3" suspension lift

This is my current long term plan, FJ80 FF rear or similarly strength and width rear, duals, SC and long travel before I go to 37's. All this money for a moderately more capable truck that I've already been everywhere with but maybe buggy lines.



I think with 37's I finally won't be cruising at 3500 rpm's to do 75 or nearly 4k to do 85-90. I think my prolonged highway rides in the higher RPM's might be what's killing my bearings so fast in all my accessories.

Funny part is I have a ton more fun lately on my $4k dual sport that costs as much as my suspension alone.

 

Thanks man! Fender flares are the original ones that came on the truck. Just trimmed for the tires and recoated with Rust-Oleum bed liner.

 

Yeah, I full support this plan.

My long term plan is still the same. Tons and 40s. Just need to start buying more parts again once I get the truck back to where I'm super happy with it.

 

yupppp same here. The Tacoma needs a lot of work that keeps me from driving it. After rebuilding my FF rear axle for the 3rd time in a year and a half I've called it quits.

I have a set of 41s sitting in my yard and geared/locked tons sitting in my buddy's yard. I've just been keeping busy with other stuff. I told my self I would be starting the project during my time off around last christmas but maaaaybe this christmas is more reasonable

 

Any good solutions to avoid burning through air filters without a passenger fender liner?

Could do a snorkel but I would rather not right now.

Moved to 35x10.50s and I have them clearing ok for daily driving with a couple hours of cutting and hammering but I’ll have to pull the fender liners and tub before I take it offroad.

 

I don't recall going through air filters when the liner was out, but I suppose if you frequent gravel roads it could be an issue. Was far more concerned with water intrusion. You could do an undercover snorkel with PVC or flexible pipe, and have the inlet run under the windshield cowl.

This is the dorkel I did on my Tundra for reference.

 

I ran something similar to this for a long time and it was mint

 

Are any of y'all actually flattening alignment cam tabs on 35s? Mine still look good after 5 years but I have it all apart for LCA bushings + KPO octagons and I'm wondering if it's worth doing the aftermarket cam tabs as well.

 

I have flattened them. If you haven't just run a thick bead behind them to help keep them from moving in the future. I put on 333 Fabs Alignment Cam plates and that stopped the issue. I also might have spot welded those. lol

 

Running some beads sounds good to me!!! That's way less effort lol

It seems like any of the aftermarket cam eliminators would reduce the chances of flattening the cams; the force is distributed more evenly across the whole tab than with the factory round cams which have a smaller point of contact but IDK I failed out of engineering

 

The aftermarket kits all come with 3/4" grade 8 hardware. I'm pretty sure factory torque specs are 175 ft/lb for the cam bolts. I cranked the grade 8 all the way to 1/2" impact tight. That also helps. lol

 

Put some 1/4"x1/4* square stock behind the tabs and burn it.

Allpro I think makes the most well designed full cam tabs if you go that route.

 

Ahem, let me try this again.

Anyone in here running 35X11.5 R17s? Im thinking of moving to these from my existing 315x75 16s. I don't necessarily want to move up to the 17" wheel and the consequently smaller sidewall, but I would appreciate the narrower width.
Kinda looking at the new Falken RTs.

Thoughts from any other 1st gen guys?

Thanks

 

Less cutting with the narrow tires, steering rack will be a bit happier. They didn't have the tire I was looking for when I was wanting to go bigger in an 11.50, otherwise that's what I would run.
17s will offer more sizes regardless if you go with a 35x11.50 or not.

 

Yes, I have Nitto trail graps in 35x11.5r17, although I do like the 12.5 wide tires I have to say that 11.5 fits better and works very well.

 

That looks pretty good! What backspacing and width are you running on the wheels?

 

I run x10.5s in front and x12.5s in rear. Fronts still rub frame with 2" spacer on 3rd gen 17" rims

 

Love those wheels on a first gen

 

Thanks! They are 8.5” wide, with 4” BS, and I also have 1” spacers. So 3” total BS, which I can tell you from experience wouldn’t work with 12.5” wide tires but I have no frame rub with the 11.5’s

 

Are those pics post-Solo lowers? Curious how much they helped after moving the lower ball joint forward.