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Fender flare removal/coating/replacement

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by dangles, Nov 17, 2021.

  1. Nov 17, 2021 at 8:45 AM
    #1
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    I couldn’t find a “body work” sub-forum so here it goes!

    I’d like to coat my fender flares. I wanted to get them Line-x’d but the quote was like $1100 (including rocker panel).

    I’m now leaning toward DIY with Raptor bed liner.

    So, should I remove, coat and replace? Or tape it off and apply while the flares are still on?

    If I remove/replace, what should I use to replace the adhesive strip around the outside edge of the fender flare?

    Thanks!
     
    908tacoma likes this.
  2. Nov 17, 2021 at 9:01 AM
    #2
    Knute

    Knute Well-Known Member

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    Suggest to remove the flare, then do a proper job of strip and prep. Then no worry about taping, masking or over spray.

    There is a thread in the 2nd Gen section about removing the flares. Basically, a few bolts/screws on the bottom with clip around the top edge. Caution needs to be used when pulling the flare off the clips.

    You may need to have a set of new clips on hand for the reinstall.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-fender-flares.744247/
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2021
    dangles[OP] likes this.
  3. Nov 17, 2021 at 7:33 PM
    #3
    burrito782

    burrito782 Shit Throwing Ape

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    Just to be clear, are you referring to the black rubber gasket/seal that sits between the flare and the body panel?
     
  4. Nov 18, 2021 at 4:46 PM
    #4
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    Toytec Aluma Series Boss Suspension (2") with add-a-leaf SPC Adjustable UCAs Raceline 935g Defender 17" wheels (0 offset) Toyo Open Country ATIII (LT285/70R17) CMC KDMax ECU tune Hood struts (DO THIS!) Rear diff breather

    Yep
     
  5. Nov 18, 2021 at 5:11 PM
    #5
    TRD__Chris

    TRD__Chris Well-Known Member

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    I did mine and would suggest buying a pack of the orange and blue body clips that hold the flare to the body.

    I broke a couple and I was trying to be gentle. As for the replacement adhesive I used a roll of 3M body panel tape.
     
    dangles[OP] likes this.
  6. Nov 18, 2021 at 5:29 PM
    #6
    burrito782

    burrito782 Shit Throwing Ape

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    Typically you'd just buy new seals/gaskets from Toyota (or in bulk from aftermarket) and stick them on after repaint. However, I don't have any experience working with that Line-X or Raptor Liner stuff, so I'm not sure how well those seals/gaskets would stick to it. If that stuff has poor adhesion compatibility then perhaps just leave the old ones on and mask them off.
     
    dangles[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  7. Feb 3, 2022 at 11:00 AM
    #7
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    Toytec Aluma Series Boss Suspension (2") with add-a-leaf SPC Adjustable UCAs Raceline 935g Defender 17" wheels (0 offset) Toyo Open Country ATIII (LT285/70R17) CMC KDMax ECU tune Hood struts (DO THIS!) Rear diff breather
    All done! I ended up using 3M auto body adhesive with adhesive prep (along with the factory clips and bolts of course). I was very happy with the outcome


     
  8. Feb 3, 2022 at 2:50 PM
    #8
    seniorredwood

    seniorredwood Assistant to the Regional Manager

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    Looks awesome. How was the price doing this vs the 1100 dollar linex quote?
     
  9. Feb 3, 2022 at 2:57 PM
    #9
    pdenajim

    pdenajim Well-Known Member

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    Just a guess here but I'm thinking under $30. :thumbsup:
    I did something similar to my rock sliders and it cost my less then $70 and that included the self etching primer which isn't needed for the plastic fender flares.

    Excellent job on the flares!
     
    seniorredwood[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Feb 3, 2022 at 3:00 PM
    #10
    seniorredwood

    seniorredwood Assistant to the Regional Manager

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    Wow! This is a really nice coating for 30 dollars. Does it hold up well?
     
  11. Feb 3, 2022 at 3:11 PM
    #11
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks! Less than $200 after the bed liner kit, new clips and adhesive strips
     
  12. Feb 3, 2022 at 3:13 PM
    #12
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    I used the Raptor bed-liner kit on Amazon. There are some good reviews of it on Youtube. I only used 1.5 of the 4 bottles in the $150 kit, so if you factor that in, I only "used" about $60 of the $150 kit :)
     
    pdenajim and seniorredwood like this.
  13. Feb 3, 2022 at 3:16 PM
    #13
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    Toytec Aluma Series Boss Suspension (2") with add-a-leaf SPC Adjustable UCAs Raceline 935g Defender 17" wheels (0 offset) Toyo Open Country ATIII (LT285/70R17) CMC KDMax ECU tune Hood struts (DO THIS!) Rear diff breather
    I did finally get a quote from a local Toyota dealership for just the adhesive strips.... $150 o_O

    I ended up with the MUCH less expensive 3M auto body adhesive (with adhesive prep)
     
    seniorredwood likes this.
  14. Feb 3, 2022 at 3:27 PM
    #14
    dangles

    dangles [OP] Active Member

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    Toytec Aluma Series Boss Suspension (2") with add-a-leaf SPC Adjustable UCAs Raceline 935g Defender 17" wheels (0 offset) Toyo Open Country ATIII (LT285/70R17) CMC KDMax ECU tune Hood struts (DO THIS!) Rear diff breather
    Here are some more photos from the process...


    I had to get this dent pulled out...


    Along the inside edge of the flares there's a "channel" where the factory adhesive strips go. I scraped that down level and wiped it with adhesive prep before applying the 3M adhesive...


    I also had to reinforce some of the spots where the clips attach on the back of the flares. I used super-glue for that.


    The adhesive worked *decently* well. There are a few small gaps. I'm not sure if this is d/t not all of the clips "clipping" in or not. As I worked around the flares pushing the clips on, I heard the "pop" on some but not all of the clips. I pushed as hard as I safely could. I believe most, if not all, are fully seated.

     
    BrainSoSmoof and pdenajim like this.
  15. Feb 3, 2022 at 3:27 PM
    #15
    pdenajim

    pdenajim Well-Known Member

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    Black MBRP dual exhaust, aftermarket TRD Pro grille, AVS dark smoke hood deflector & dark smoke vent visors, BedRug, BAK Industries Revolver X2 bed cover, aftermarket TRD Pro Tail light assemblies (DEPO), orange vinyl decals on engine cover, door sills, and glove box, LED headlights & fog lights, KICKER speakers, piano black tailgate TACOMA inserts, center console organizer tray, black stainless steel licence plate frames, smoked license plate "protectors", ME-SO Customs Ultimate LED mirror turn signals, Ultimate Dome Light, V2 Map Lights & coin holder, Toyota bed extender, Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock, Fortin EVO ALL Plug & Play Remote Start, TRD PRO headlights, Redline Hood Struts, FJ Cruiser 2007-2014 TRD Pro SEMA 17" MATTE GRAY Alloy Rims, COOPER DISCOVERER S/T MAXX 255/80-17 Tires LR E, Gen 2 TRD Pro Suspension, 2" AAL, TRD Pro CAI, Mobtown sliders and full aluminum skids, ARB Safari snorkel. On deck waiting installation: under hood LED lights, bed, U-Bolt flip, Sport Hood, passenger door touch sensitive door handle. Future Mods: "Always On" console USB power mod, "Default On" ECT Power mod, LED lights strips inside the bed, diff vent extension
    I bought the $60 gallon can of Harbor Freight Iron Armor. Sprayed my rock sliders and full under body armor with three coats and still have a little less then a quart left.
    That was 3 years ago (?) and its holding up very well - quite durable. I wouldn't say its the best stuff on the market but I am very happy with it.
    this isn't the best picture but it should give you an idea of how it looks.
    0816182105.jpg
     

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