2TR-FE Performance Thread

Hmmm… Stupid Question?
As I’m sure you guys know the stock Air Box / Air Filter gets air from the right side fender. There’s a plastic box with a maze right where the air enters the Air Box / Filter. I’m guessing it’s to reduce sound, gets heat soaked and most likely has some restriction of air flow. So I removed it, there’s still a large difference between the outside ambient air temperature and the air temperature going through the mass air flow once the engine bay is heated up. In a attempt to get cooler air into the factory air box I was thinking about adding something like a NAPA duct right below & behind the right side headlight. I have a link to one & it’s carbon fiber. In an attempt to not look so “Ricky Racer” I would paint it body color and add a vent hose from the end of the duct into the opening in the factory air box. The factory air box has a few small holes in the lowest part of the box. I’m guessing it’s incase water enters the box to let it drain. I would enlarge them because I’m sure the box would get water in it.

Now my question is what do you guys think of this idea?

I really don’t think the carbon duct would work because the fender is not flat. Would need to find one with some “flex or give” in it to have it contour to the fender somewhat. I was told that paint would not adhere to the plexiglass ones and have no idea if paint would adhere to the black plastic ones. Fiberglass would most likely crack or not have enough flex.

Do you think the cooler air be worth it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333823361860
Ok I’m ready for the

 

Have you watched the intake air temp to see how quickly it drops back down once you are moving? I know that once you stop and back up or at idle it will climb quickly, but once the truck is moving, it drops back down fairly quickly so I'm not sure you would gain a whole lot. I used to watch it on my Scangauge II and it wasn't that bad while moving.

 

It has been said many times that people noticed no difference in air temp with a "cold air" intake, to keep the box if at all possible unmolested. Unless I misunderstand, I would definitely not drill a hole in the bottom of the box.

 

Yes but it’s still a good 10 to 15 degrees hotter when on the highway moving than the ambient air temperature. When I had the big intercooler POS system the mass airflow was between the intercooler and the engine it was no big deal. Even my butt Dyno can feel a good bit of difference between 55 and 110 ambient air temperature…
The biggest thing is I don’t want to look all Ricky Racer! Lowered, StopTech’s and the larger wheels are more than enough. Could do something with the fog light opening but I like my driving lights in there…

I fully understand that CAI do just about NOTHING, the holes or hole would maybe be 1/2” just in the very bottom to let water drain out incase it got more water then it should. The hole would be at the lowest part of the air box for drainage…

 

Get some relevant data, that once you do the swap or addition, you can compare it. Go for it.

 

If you really felt compelled to do this, you could use

$18 Uni 1" Air Box Filter Vents Yamaha Banshee Blaster Warrior Raptor YFZ (6 units)

THESE airbox vents. I used them on my Banshee for 2yr before I went to straight pod-style filters. You can make 1" holes, and they're filtered. It'd keep enough out.

 

Lmao I'm sure you did... but that laptop is gone now, and I feel like I'm just learning everything over again

 

I cant get the file to open in the new Haltech NSP system. Is this for the old OS?

 

Yeah, ESP

 

Another Rotrex bites the dust‼️

“What happened to the charger??

No clue, it had 13 thousand miles on it and started whining like a bad hydraulic pump and seized 500 miles later. I took it off and paid the shipping to send it to Denmark for rotrax to look at it and they warrantied it and sent me a brand new one. It may have been a fluke but I didn't like the idea of having to pull the charger every year and wait 3 months for warranty claim. So I sold the kit.

Edit - the main reason I have a bad taste in my mouth is I was 1300 miles from home in bfe Montana where it was hard to find a stock length belt to bypass the charger. I had an extra extended length just never thought two keep two different length belts with me.”

I know this might be a sore subject with some, but when will the vendor of this kit change the blower to something that lasts? Sorry guys but this really burns me up when they know what happens to each and everyone of these! It’s not if but when! I sold the kit I had for this very reason when I should have shipped it back and filled a dispute with PayPal and my CC company. All I would have needed to do was show the track record. The vendor warns in the instructions to carry an extra belt but they don’t Specify which belt to carry with you‼️ My deepest apologies and I’m ready so fire away!

 

Im not so sure these failures arent related to prolonged oil change intervals. I flush my reservoir around every oil change, and ive got 27k miles on mine. That is also with a 70mm pulley for 5-7k miles at least, so my c30-94 is turning near max rpms regularly. Personally i think the 50k miles they suggest for fluid changes are wayyyy too long. That being said though, i always carry my stock intake parts in case mine leaves me stranded, just because it isnt confidence inspiring lol

 

Yes Robert,
But MANY have changed the Over Price Traction oil way before recommended intervals. I was going to flush and change w/ every oil change 5k. But I let the truck set and only had 2k miles on the system before I was able to sell it off… As a matter of fact I still have an extra oil filter with your name on it! I was going to use it as a PS filter but I think I stay w/ 3/8 filter for the PS. I sent two quarts, two 5/16 line filters, new Gates hoses & new plugs with the kit I sold… Plus if my memory serves me correctly I think it was recommended oil changes @ 15k.

 

She started! Need some fresh gas, but tomorrow I'll do some driving after I get gas

 

Calling all Rotrex owners…
I still have what is known as an “Raybestos 5/16 Oil Filter” actually it’s a transmission filter for the Rotrex oil system. Is anyone interested in it?
Oh, it’s Free 99… You have to supply the $100 plus per quart of oil…

 

I picked up a 2tr for dirt cheap for a turbo build. Tore it down and found out it spun a rod pretty bad to the point that I'm not sure the crank is salvageable/worth saving. Does the 3rz use the same crankshaft? I believe the bottom end is nearly identical between the 2tr and 3rz so I am wondering if a 3rz crank is the same.

 

Really now?! Which rod, and have any pictures?

You have to weigh the cost buying a new crank, or finding a shop that can repair it, and finding oversized bearings. Mahle makes oversized bearing though.

 

Not really sure how. Guy I bought it from was just using the truck for the frame. Best guess is it was run out of oil because the cam journals had decent scoring on them as well (I already had a cylinder head decked that I was going to use). I think it was the third rod. One bearing was nearly completely underneath the other when I pulled it out. I'm currently talking with a few machine shops about my options. I already pulled the trigger on rods and pistons so I was really hoping I wouldn't need anything else.

 

Hard to get a comprehensive assessment without looking at the rest of the engine, but your most likely right. That plus a lack of thorough maintenance.

 

Yeah most likely. I think its too damaged to just grind down, so it sounds like the cost to have it welded up and ground versus buying a new crank is going to be pretty close.