What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Definitely also consider the accumulator delete, it was an absolutely massive quality of life improvement.

The user tonered has a very good thread on it here on TW.

 

Far as I know the SSO is the only low profile with "wings" that extend it to the full width of the truck.

They have options that include a light bar cutout also, but if I get one it'll just go in the space above the bumper and below the grille.

You can also get their low profile and choose to buy the Stage 2 bolt-on wings later. This model is fully welded/assembled with the wings though.

This bumper also retains the factory fog location, which I think looks great.

Definitely tag me if/when you post pics of the install and I'll come fawn over it.

 

Just realized I didn't answer your spacer question.

There are no spacers, but a few weeks ago I had a guy install the DRT Fabrication cab mount relocate and hammer the pinch weld. I didn't pay enough attention to the "before" but he probably trimmed some wheel well liner also.

Beyond that... they just fit and haven't rubbed yet, although there hasn't been much articulation to put it to a test.

 

I plan to pinch the hose, remove it, groove it, install it, and enjoy it! Honda achieves the same result by placing a plastic delay valve in the slave, it is surprising what customer sacrifices are made to reduce warranty costs. Thanks for the tip!

 

Finally installed a few Christmas stocking stuffers:

 

I only thought there were 2 autos as far as headlights- either auto headlight (low beam) on or auto high beam on. I mean auto dimming for a headlight is not exactly how the headlight works, not like you can actually dim the headlights. It’s either off or on

My truck has auto high beam and it sucks in my location so it stays off. I don’t have auto headlights. Can any explain this mysterious dimming?

 

No worries. Thanks! I was just curious because I like taking my off-road on somewhat more technical trails from time to time and have some concerns about spacers in that setting. Guessing a zero offset with a 4 .5” backspace should suffice.

 

Curious what the value of doing this is. I have an uninstalled JLT 3.0… wondering if I should add the mesh before installation…

 

Dining is the term for going from high to low

My Tacoma has auto headlights - automatically good from DRL to low beam based on a sensor and auto high beam where the sensor will detect outside light and go from high to low beam.

There are several issues with leaving it up to the sensor to go from high to low. Reflective signs, terrain, curves. It of also speed activated, slow for a corner, high off, low on, weather you want or not.

I chose to use them manually and skip the sensor.

 

Firestone ride rite bags with daystar cradles

 

No problem. I was headed out to the truck already. Mocking up a viper cut; possibly doing it for a Saturday morning project.

I will probably cut about the middle of the pictured tape line in order to leave enough room for the edge trim. I know people usually work along the lower contour line but that barely improves the lateral approach angle. But to each their own. I realize some people do it for aesthetic reasons which is cool too.

 

Please post afterward pictures.

 

i figured the baffle is more to keep it from sloshing around on the trails if it starts to fill. (should empty it before the trail to have as little oil in there to begin with) but it also increases the surface area of the inside of the can that the vapors can latch onto and begin to gather up as droplets. if it is a very light mist, most of the flow will go in one side and out the other, preventing the can from doing much good so having this helps. Other ideas i've seen are stainless steel wool pads like this;

Both options are stupid cheap - but figured to use a stainless streel drain mesh to see if it does what i think it will do.

 

Absolutely!

 

In my opinion, Automatic High-beams is synonymous with auto-dimming headlights. I believe oostroma mistook my response as referring to automatic headlights instead of automatic high-beams. It's perfectly normal to get those two confused in a forum setting where we all generally try to anticipate at least some variance in terms.

 

Got 1/4 of the way done with predator step delete ....

Took a nice bite on the fender flare ... thankfully didn't catch it with the tire that would've sucked.

Wifey was in the truck when it happened so real sliders should be an easier sell now

 

Looks like a couple of you have stumbled on a neat life hack today...

Step 1: tell the wife you want [mod x]
Step 2: take the wife wheeling
Step 3: break off whatever [mod x] will/would have replaced while wheeling
Step 4: "well dangit honey, it looks like I just don't have a choice now..."
Step 5: install [mod x]

 

In general the point of a catch can is to reduce the amount of oil vapor making it into the intake charge on an engine that uses a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. This is especially useful with engines that use direct port injection, like the 3.5L 2GR-FKS, since there is no fuel coming down the intake runners to wash the back of the intake valves off. The oil vapor starts to cake up on the back of the valves and reduce performance after a while but the catch can helps to reduce that. I'm not sure if the 2.7L version is direct injected or not though.

 

Not talking about the catch can. I understand the benefits. Talking about the custom mesh that was installed.