UPDATE: Lift (well actually lower) advice

I’ve read so much about different lift set ups and all but hoping for some specific input.

removing spacer lift from the front of my white prerunner pictured below and putting in some 5100s. Trying to determine which height setting to use (will be on stock springs) 0” or the middle 1-1.75”
The photo I included doesn’t really portray the actual stance of my truck. In the photo it looks like it’s a bit raked but I think it’s due to the angle and pavement. In reality it’s got a reverse rake or the Bro lean… of about 1”


I want to return to a more stockish look, with a slight rake to account for loads and all. Not loving how the lift (done by PO is looking / riding)

currently there are 2” lift blocks in the rear. While I eventually would like to swap those out for a 1” block, or an AAL or even return to stock rear height, I don’t think I can do it at the moment so am wondering about front bilstein height in relation to these 2” blocks.

will the 0” or even the 1.5” setting look ridiculously raked with the 2” blocks? Am I better off waiting to also Lower the rear a bit? I don’t want to do the full 2.5 setting in front.

anyone have pics of their 5100s at various settings with 2” blocks in back, or just in general? Would love to see some photo comparisons. (I know some other threads have this already, I have seen them all but looking for some more related to this decision)

hoping to get a stance / look more like this other taco I snapped a pic of. They are on the same wheel/tire set up 265/70r17

Thanks!

 

Why don't you think you can remove the rear spacer lift?

I'm generally pretty adverse to spacers, so if it were me I'd toss those in the round file asap.

If you want a stock height, use the 4600 Bilsteins. 5100s will work if you've got at least an inch lift (this is specific for the rear shocks). The fronts can do a 0" "lift", but the rears are too long and can cause the shock to bottom out before the axle hits the bump stops.

I had 5100s with the front set on the middle setting (stock coils) and for the rear I had an extended shackle (rather than an add-a-leaf or block). That gave me ~1" overall which I was happy with for quite some time. Eventually I went a little further with Kings up front and Deaver J59's in the back.

Using the 5100s (front) to lift more than that, though, and you're likely to notice the front getting stiffer. If you want more than an inch or so of lift, I'd suggest aftermarket lift springs (OME 881, 882, etc...) and set the 5100s back to the "stock" height setting (let the spring do all the lifting). Then in the rear you can do a lift to match either with the OME Dakar springs, or some other higher end brands like the Deavers, or an add-a-leaf. Or there are lift packs that are like 2 or 3 leafs.

 

Appreciate the info. I think I misspoke (mistyped). I definitely can remove the lift blocks - just meant funds are a little tight so wanting to hold off on a whole new set up for the rear, leaf springs etc. but that being said I’d rather get it all dialed in at once rather than do it crappy once and have to redo.

I was wondering if I were to keep the 2” blocks there for now whether the 0” or middle 5100 setting in front would be way too harsh of an angle. I agree about not wanting to go the full height of the 5100s. So whether lowest height or middle would be best to set them at, while keeping the 2” blocks, and in anticipation of lowering the rear off of those blocks.

Like if I set the front to 0” in anticipation of lowering the rear, would that rake be way too much compared to the 2” blocks, or if I set the fronts to the middle setting, would that cause reverse rake if I then dropped the rear to a 1” lift or stock position.

I did already get a set of 5100s for the rear but I realize that I would need to drop the rear a little to use those, and could not use them at the stock rear position. So I may return / swap them for something else depending on what I do.

What is the deal with the rear shackle?

Thank you

 

Any thoughts on what the other (silver?) truck could be set up with? Does it seem to just be stock height? Or might have any lift?

 

More than likely the only expense related to removing the rear blocks is new U-bolts. You can get those for like $40 or so. So you could go down to stock height for minimal expense. You could return the 5100s and get 4600's (basically same shock, just shorter for zero lift applications).

Alternatively, if you're looking for an inch or so lift, the combo I did worked really well for me for quite a while. 5100s, front set to middle, and rear extended shackle for an overall 1" lift. I think I spent a total of $400 on the shocks and the shackle (this was like 10 years ago, prices have gone up slightly). Add another $40 for the new u-bolts and you should be all good, assuming there aren't other little weird things the previous owner did.

So, the 5100s are good for up to a 3" lift, so you could install them right now (in the rear) and be fine. My shackles are (iirc) two inches longer than stock, which results in a 1" lift. I personally like that better than lift blocks. Blocks are bad because they increase axle wrap, so it's good to get rid of those if you can. It can get dicey with too long of a shackle since that can screw up the leaf/shackle/frame geometry which can be bad, but extending by an inch or so is totally fine.

 

^ this.

But I'll throw in my preference for a 3 leaf AAL over the extended shackle as that will help out your tired old leaf springs from going W shaped. And save you the work from fussing with the u bolts and the shackle. You'd just have to replace the u bolts, and the AAL's usually come with a new center pin.

 

That looks like quite a lot of lift up front, does it have a drop bracket or lift spindles up front?

That will make lowering a lot more challenging if even possible.

 

Yeah, the 3-leaf packs are great too. A little more spendy, but overall would do a better job compensating for an old sagging leaf pack.

I actually thought I mentioned those, but that must have been another post, lol. I don't see the shackles that I bought, on the Wheeler's site, but iirc, they were like $50, not the greasable ones like these:

 

Pretty sure I had the same ones until just recently. I made custom ones 1" shorter (or .5" lift) to try and lower the back of the truck after I got some new primary leaf packs...

 

Yeah, I just slapped them on my Deavers when I got those so I'm sitting at ~2.5" overal. I'm prepping for eventual 33's.

Wife even noticed that my 32's are getting cracks in the sidewall, so I'm betting new tires will be sooner rather than later, lol.

 

You tell me? I’m not sure.

Also including pics of the rear for view. Are they real saggy??

 

Anyone know what’s goin on up there^?

will that pose issues in lowering / installing the 5100s?

still trying to figure out what to do in rear- are my leaf springs too saggy to completely remove the 2” blocks and avoid any negative rake?? Would it be best the front 5100s at 0” or at the middle notch?

^if I want leveled / raked. No negative rake

 

It's just a spacer lift up front- not a drop bracket- so no headaches there.

And yeah, I'd double down on the suggestion for the AAL over the shackle with the state of the rear leaf springs.

 

Thanks. Any thoughts on if I were to eventually go for the AAL, but not right away, what I should do for now with front bilsteins / rear blocks?

better to leave the blocks on or take em off until I get the AAL?

And on which height setting for front 5100s would be best for either option?

 

More context - I’m having a shop replace my steering rack and do the front 5100s at the same time. So I can just get the one alignment after both. This coming Monday.

so hoping to make a plan for the best front height in relation to what will either be 2”blocks or saggy stock leaf springs for a while until I get an AAL. Hopefully I can do one height setting on the 5100s that will work for both pre and post AAL to keep the level or factory ish rake

 

That looks like at least 1.5" hockey puck up front, which equates to ~2x that amount of lift. Good thing it's a prerunner or your CV axles would be screaming in pain with that much lift.

For the rear, yeah, those leafs are definitely W shaped, so they're for sure worn out. Will continuing to drive on them for a while make your truck explode? No, but I'd put new springs all around near the top of your list.

If you go the AAL route, it's just a bandaid fix. You'll def want to get all new springs eventually.

 

Well, the AAL will be around 1.5" of lift. So match the front to that.

Do the block removal and AAL install at the same time. You'll have to remove the u bolts to remove the block anyway. The AAL goes in place the block, so it's really the same work.

 

Pretty sure the AAL goes above the overload spring, not below it like the block is.

Although some AALs might just replace the overload, too.

 

Rec’s for whole new leaf packs? Will start looking into it…

would be more inclined to just do that and hit stock height on some fresh springs rather than an AAL I think

and then could either do the 0” or 1.5” up front. Maybe 1.5” is better if I’m keeping the 2” blocks on until I get new leafs.. 0” front with 2” in back seems like it’d be real stinky buggy

 

A single leaf might go above it.. But I'd suggest the 3 lead AAL + remove the overload.